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I have a 427 that made 539 na rwhp and i swear that my balancer is rubbing on my steering set-up! It has 300 miles on it. and it looks like there is a little "screw sized protrusion" sticking out, making it difficult to get the belt off or on. Anyone know anything about something like that happening?
The balancer only needs to be pinned if you're running a supercharger. The resistince encountered turning the blower can make the crank pulley rotate backwards and the bolt will loosen and the balancer will walk off. If it's rubbing the steering then the balance is loose and walking off.
While you don't need it pinned, if you or you tuner didn't follow GM's bolt installation instructions w/ a new bolt then they usually back out. The crank pulley stays on the crank snout via an interefernce fit and relys on bolt stretch to hold it on.
That said, when I put my cam in I keyed the balancer because I wanted to be able to forget about it.
While you don't need it pinned, if you or you tuner didn't follow GM's bolt installation instructions w/ a new bolt then they usually back out. The crank pulley stays on the crank snout via an interefernce fit and relys on bolt stretch to hold it on.
I just called him and he said that he reused the stock bolt that was on my stock crank/balancer. I said that i think the spec is 138 ft#s and he said that he put 140 on it.
Should i get a new bolt? What kind(aftermarket)? Thanks!!
No... you'll have to re-do it all. take it back to them and make them do it right. You have to remove th esteering rack to get to the bolt. Here's the proper procedure as listed on www.ls1howto.com.
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
No... you'll have to re-do it all. take it back to them and make them do it right. You have to remove th esteering rack to get to the bolt. Here's the proper procedure as listed on
Thanks! Im gonna look into the removal of the steering so i can get this fixed. Is this a weekend project or is it pretty quick? We have a lift and air tools etc,. Thanks again!! Youre awesome!!
If you have a lift and know how to turn a wrench you may be able to have it done in a day.... getting the steering rack out of the way is the hardest part. From what I've heard you don't need to take the rack all the way out, there are ways to just get it out of the way. That website I linked will show you everything you need to know. Just look at the initial steps of the C5 heads/cam swap.
Get a brand new GM blancer bolt and start fresh. Many use extra red loc-tite for a little extra insurance.
Couple of suggestions. The first is to replace the harmonic damper. It is likely loosening because it is the original and having been removed may have been damaged. Second, the tightening specification in the manual should be followed. Even though LS1howto mentions the correct bolt stretch, he uses a shortcut that could lead to further issues down the road. Do it once and do it correctly.
Next question, who's crank is in the 427, Eagle? There were issues with some Eagle cranks. You really should measure the crank hub snout diameter and the harmonic damper hub inside diameter to ensure there is enough interference in the fit.
its an ASP underdrive pulley/balancer. Eagle, yes. its not wobbly. Should i call Eagle? Where could i get specs? hmmmm.....
If you have the ASP installation instructions, they should tell you the interference fit requirements. Just measure the crank and the pulley and ensure fit is correct. You will need tools that measure to 1/10,000 inches to do this correctly.
you have a shop that installed a 427? those aren't cheap; they didn't replace the bolt? I think the hack shop needs to fix the problem or foot the bill at shop that is in the know
The balancer only needs to be pinned if you're running a supercharger. The resistince encountered turning the blower can make the crank pulley rotate backwards and the bolt will loosen and the balancer will walk off. If it's rubbing the steering then the balance is loose and walking off.
While you don't need it pinned, if you or you tuner didn't follow GM's bolt installation instructions w/ a new bolt then they usually back out. The crank pulley stays on the crank snout via an interefernce fit and relys on bolt stretch to hold it on.
That said, when I put my cam in I keyed the balancer because I wanted to be able to forget about it.
Post some pictures if you can.
Sorry but I have to disagree with this, if you do a search you will find a number of stock engines that the balancer has come loose on.
I would pin the balancer and use an ARP bolt to retain it.
Cheap insurance @ ~$30.00 for the bolt and you don't need to streach the bolt.
Just install the balancer till it bottoms out on the crank and install the bolt and torque to 150lbft.
^ Some of the '05 LS2s in the first C6s had issues and GM redesigned the bolt and had a TSB out for it.
For the C5s it's excedingly rare for an oem bolt/balancer installed properly to come loose. In this case the guys shop failed to follow proper procedure and re-used an old bolt which you cannnot do.
I went ahead and pinned my ATI super damper because it came with a keyway and I wanted the extra insurance.
I pinned mine using the ATI kit... drilling through my forged eagle crank was a royal pita, but I think it was worth it, if only for peace of mind. And like everyone else said... Just get an ARP bolt. I really hope for your sake that they didn't break the old bolt off in the snout, that can happen when you reuse the factory bolt to pull the balancer on.
I pinned mine using the ATI kit... drilling through my forged eagle crank was a royal pita, but I think it was worth it, if only for peace of mind. And like everyone else said... Just get an ARP bolt. I really hope for your sake that they didn't break the old bolt off in the snout, that can happen when you reuse the factory bolt to pull the balancer on.
Oh really? That can happen... how do you know about that?
you have a shop that installed a 427? those aren't cheap; they didn't replace the bolt? I think the hack shop needs to fix the problem or foot the bill at shop that is in the know
I bought everything(other than the bolt) and nobody even questioned the stock bolt working properly. I m not mad at anyone for this happening. I m so glad that it didn t blow this motor up! Cause your right- It wasn t cheap, and its new. I haven t even had a chance to see how good it mph s at the track yet!(only about 300 miles on it). I hate when problems arise but i always learn more about my Corvette when they do. I appreciate everyones comments and------Im gonna pin my crankshaft to assure that this doesn t come up again! I just need to find out where I get this "kit". Does the arp bolt have the pin and drillbit, etc, with it? Hmmm.... Thanks guys!- Jason