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98 coupe. Coming home the AC stopped working. Found that the belt has thrown so I tried to reinstall it. Come to fine the harmonic balance is sitting forward of the engine and the pulley is not aligned with the water pump, AC, Idlers etc. There is no wobble and the bolt appears tight. Looks like the pulley belt flange just pulled forward on the part that connects to the camshaft. Is this a compression fit with some kind of rubber bushing? Kind of reminds me of throwing a stainless steel prop on a boat.
Any insight would help. Already read about what it will take to replace it. I have to go in to replace a leaky ac compressor so that and the water pump are already going. Looks like I have to move the steering rack to get this done.
Sounds like a good time to install a cam and an underdrive pully. Hopefully there is no colateral damage associated with the crank pully.
You'll know whats going on when the pully is removed. Good luck!!
The inner hub of the harmonic damper is attached to the pulley with an elastomer compound. It sounds like that has failed. You need to replace the part. You need some special tools and a new harmonic damper and bolt to do this.
Is this something that is common? If that compound has failed, when I use the balance puller will it pull the belt ring and leave the hub of the harmonic balance on the camshaft? Is there a replacement part I can get that is still stock in dimensions but better built.
Is this something that is common? If that compound has failed, when I use the balance puller will it pull the belt ring and leave the hub of the harmonic balance on the camshaft? Is there a replacement part I can get that is still stock in dimensions but better built.
Thanks
You will replace the entire assembly, but before you get that far you will need to remove the steering rack.
IMHO the best replacement for the stock balancer is made by ATI and while you have it off I would pin the crank also.
Is this something that is common? If that compound has failed, when I use the balance puller will it pull the belt ring and leave the hub of the harmonic balance on the camshaft? Is there a replacement part I can get that is still stock in dimensions but better built.
Thanks
Not sure how many miles you have on it, but time and heat take their toll. The ATI is a good unit as is the Powerbond.
Last edited by vettenuts; Sep 29, 2008 at 07:18 PM.
A three arm puller is used to remove the pulley. It doesn't contact the outer ring. You position the three arms into the openings of the innder hub structure that is on the crank.
Yes this is a common problem on the LS motors. Do not use a stock replacement pulley. You can purchase several different aftermarket parts either underdriven or stock diameter.
You were lucky that the outer inertia ring slid forward. Mine failed and slid back and took out the front engine cover, oil pan, oil pump, and timing chain. Very expensive fix even with me doing all the work. Excelent time to do a cam swap I did!
I am in the same boat as you. The pulley is about 1 rib forward out of alignment. It likes to shear the inside rib of the belt as it tries to align itself backwards if I do any agressive driving. I looked into labor to have it done - about 370 dollars. I am still not sure if want to try it myself. I would like to work on the car but it is a little intimidating as this would be the first thing I will have done. I might be able to talk the wife into a ported oil pump if I do it myself. Keep us in the loop on what you decide. I've been watching these treads hoping someone would be working on the same thing soon.
Last edited by The Void; Sep 29, 2008 at 06:37 PM.
Reason: grammatically challenged
A three arm puller is used to remove the pulley. It doesn't contact the outer ring. You position the three arms into the openings of the innder hub structure that is on the crank.
Yes. Just dug out my original one and looked at it. For some reason I though the rubber was closer to the smaller diameter of the hub. Deleted a portion of my prior post that was incorrect in case someone else reads this down the road.
Sounds like a good time to install a cam and an underdrive pully. Hopefully there is no colateral damage associated with the crank pully.
You'll know whats going on when the pully is removed. Good luck!!
Either way, there is a bit of work to make it right again. It would be a good time for modifications.
I'm going to do the job myself since I have to replace the leaking AC compressor. Been saving up the "to do" list since the car has 80K on it. Conslidating all the work while I have the car in the air on jack stands.
List includes:
AC Compressor, accumulator, orifice tube
Water pump,gaskets upper lower hoses (has to come off to get to AC)
Harmonic balance
Remove and clean Throttle body istall new gasket
End Links, Stabilizer bushings, tie rod ends
Shocks all around
Plugs and Wires
Brakes, rotors and paint the calipers
All fluids changed
Have wheels ground force balanced
Should keep me in the garage on weekends for a couple of weeks. Don't need the car as a daily driver so no pressure. Will let you know how it goes and if I need help. If there is any other maintenance I should consider let me know. Not really into modding the car..like the stock setup. The Void can PM me if you have questions as I work through this.
Buy an LS3 water pump. It weighs less and the design has less rotating mass. The old bell pulley is replaced with a flat design. I use one on my 418ci build and it's working great. Search for "LS2 LS3 waterpump" on fleabay for a seller in Missouri and offer him $15 less (best offer option).
May want to update the power steering pulley from solid/plastic older model to open wagonwheel/metal design of the LS3. It makes service a little easier with the ability to loosen the bolts behind the pulley.
Remember you must also use a new crank bolt, you can not reuse the old one. I actually use the old bolt to get the pulley started and tighten it a bit and then remove it and install the new crank bolt and tighten it to the proper torque spec.
Remember you must also use a new crank bolt, you can not reuse the old one. I actually use the old bolt to get the pulley started and tighten it a bit and then remove it and install the new crank bolt and tighten it to the proper torque spec.
Absolutely do not do that. Go over to LS1tech.com and look up pulley installation tool. Either make one or buy one from one of the members on there. Do not use the old bolt to force the new pulley on. The pulley is literaly stretched over the crank snout. When it first hits the end of the crank there is a hell of a lot of tension on there and the bolt is in only a few threads. You are asking to strip them out of the crank snout and then you are completely screwed!
I went through this exercise nearly a year ago and highly recommend a tool like the one Vettenuts has posted. I even used that tool coupled with a PVC pipe coupling to pull the new seal into position.
I went through this exercise nearly a year ago and highly recommend a tool like the one Vettenuts has posted. I even used that tool coupled with a PVC pipe coupling to pull the new seal into position.
GREAT TIP. I hadn't thought of this method to "press" the seal into place. I've used a pipe with a cap on its end to "tap" the seal into place.