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Question about ABS "module" between the radiator/engine
The module that has 6 brake lines in in(4 on top and 2 on the drivers side). I took it off to get my steering rack out of the way. On the top 4 lines it says RF(right front), RR(right rear), LF, LR. Im wondering about the two drivers side lines, not the 4 ones on top. Does the front line run to the back of the car or to the passenger side? Or is there a picture of it so i can try to figure it out, somewhere? Or is it important which one is in front? The lines are hard to tell how they "fit". I shoulda marked them b4 i removed them!!(i know, i know) Thanks for any help, guys! The tech support is Great on here!!
The module that has 6 brake lines in in(4 on top and 2 on the drivers side). I took it off to get my steering rack out of the way. On the top 4 lines it says RF(right front), RR(right rear), LF, LR. Im wondering about the two drivers side lines, not the 4 ones on top. Does the front line run to the back of the car or to the passenger side? Or is there a picture of it so i can try to figure it out, somewhere? Or is it important which one is in front? The lines are hard to tell how they "fit". I shoulda marked them b4 i removed them!!(i know, i know) Thanks for any help, guys! The tech support is Great on here!!
How do you plan on doing the automated bleed procedure? I can email you the service manual installation procedure for the BMPV.
Oh man! You didn't have to remove that to get the steering rack out. I don't have my car around me right now otherwise I would try to answer your q's. You don't ever have to take that out for an engine swap, cam swap or anything. You can just take it loose and let it sit there. When you do get your lines back on, you're going to have to take a trip to the stealership or find someone with a TechII to operate the EBCM and pump out your air. There is no other way to clear the air from the lines, so don't bother asking. If you decide to try to drive the car without bleeding the lines, please be careful!
Oh man! You didn't have to remove that to get the steering rack out. I don't have my car around me right now otherwise I would try to answer your q's. You don't ever have to take that out for an engine swap, cam swap or anything. You can just take it loose and let it sit there. When you do get your lines back on, you're going to have to take a trip to the stealership or find someone with a TechII to operate the EBCM and pump out your air. There is no other way to clear the air from the lines, so don't bother asking. If you decide to try to drive the car without bleeding the lines, please be careful!
Funniest thing- We removed it when we put the motor in and we just bled them "normally" and no problems whatsoever. Hmmmm.
The two side connections are RF, RR (right front wheel line is the forward (radiator) side; right rear wheel line is the rearward (engine) side).
The two top connections nearest the side connections are the two master cylinder feeds, and the two top connections closest to the center of the car are the LF,LR lines.
I just checked with Randy to see if we did any certain special thing when we bled the brakes two weeks ago when we bled them last(after removing the module completelt from the car- He said that the "new" trick was to bleed them normally "BEFORE" juicing up the electronics to battery power. It really worked when we did it probably 14 days ago or so. I really did use the brakes hard several times and i havent had 1 light come on. HMMMM.
The two side connections are RF, RR (right front wheel line is the forward (radiator) side; right rear wheel line is the rearward (engine) side).
The two top connections nearest the side connections are the two master cylinder feeds, and the two top connections closest to the center of the car are the LF,LR lines.
HTH!
Mark
Dude, Thank You sooooooo much! I hope you and your corvette will be blessed with many Beautiful Women!!
I just checked with Randy to see if we did any certain special thing when we bled the brakes two weeks ago when we bled them last(after removing the module completelt from the car- He said that the "new" trick was to bleed them normally "BEFORE" juicing up the electronics to battery power. It really worked when we did it probably 14 days ago or so. I really did use the brakes hard several times and i havent had 1 light come on. HMMMM.
I have never heard of that trick. I think you were just lucky. If air gets in that module the only way to ensure the air gets past the internal valves is to cycle the valves while pressure bleeding the system. It doesn't matter whether the module is connected to the battery or not before bleeding. The valves do not go to some nuetral position that allows air to go by them just because the module isn't connected to electrical power.
The two side connections are RF, RR (right front wheel line is the forward (radiator) side; right rear wheel line is the rearward (engine) side).
The two top connections nearest the side connections are the two master cylinder feeds, and the two top connections closest to the center of the car are the LF,LR lines.
HTH!
Mark
The master cylinder feeds- Which one is which? Thanks! I wasn t sure about it.
I got it!! YEEEE!!! No special tools or nothing! Its bled and braking perfectly!! No lights or nothing! There s your "trick" guys! Thanks EVERYONE for your help and concerns!!!!!!!! You re all a bunch of "Cool Dudes"!!