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I attempted to lower my car and started with the front. I couldnt get the bolts to turn even after soaking with penetrating oil. My 10mm wrench was starting to strip the head. What gives? Any secrets or sure fire way to get this job done. I didnt even try on the rear yet.
The bolt could be rusted within the insert inside the spring...and/or the bushing could be vulcanized to the control arm.
Either will prevent the bolt from turning. Both require plenty of lubricant. Most prefer to use PB BLASTER. I filled the little trough that surrounds the circumference of the bolt on the top side of the spring. I allowed it to wick through the insert/spring. Once I could see it clearly below the spring, I knew the bolt was thoroughly lubricated.
Use a metal putty knife to loosen the rubber bushing off the control arm. Use more PB BLASTER there.
Take the tension off the spring as suggested, using a jack at the end of the spring.
Once they're both addressed, you should be able to turn the bolts by hand w/o a 10mm wrench.
We adjusted the front on my nephew's car last week.
Jacking the spring made the bolts turn quite easily.
But, the bushings under the bolt head were pretty warped - kinda sideways.
The dealer parts guy told me these were unavailable unless you buy the whole spring!!!!!!!!! Is this true?
They are not available from the dealer separately. They come with the spring.
The C5 bolts/bushings may be available from some site supporting vendors...HARDBARUSA is one that has stainless bolts with DELRIN bushings.
You might find some in the classifieds from a car being stripped out.
Some have also used the C6/Z06 bolts/bushings in the front.
Last edited by hotwheels57; Oct 1, 2008 at 05:33 PM.
If you can get right in there on it w/ the lower arm dropped, you can get some LARGE channelel locks or a pipe wrench on the bottom of the adjuster, just above the bushing and get some real good leverage on them. That is what I had to do on the passengers side to get them all the way out. Good luck.
Well after the pentrating oil I was able to free up the bushing and jack up the spring BUT I rounded off the bolt! They shouldnt even make 12 point wrenches. Anyways I have f45 suspension so there isnt much room at all to get anything on it. What should I do now? Remove the shock and put vice grips on the bolt?
On front bolts go up, forget about turning left or right, the more u lower, more the bolt go up. u need to put a jack under leaf spring and jack just a little till u can turn bolt freely. without jack under leaf spring, bolt will be beyond tight to turn.
On rear, its different, more the bolt goes down, more the lowering.
BTW just do 1/2" -3/4" lowered on stock bolts (no bushings cut), trust me u will be glad u did.
Yea I put the jack under the leaf until the bushing raised off of the control arm but the bolt still wouldnt budge. I cant believe how easy it rounded off, and again 12 point wrenches shouldnt even exist. I want to lower only because I cant stand the wheelwell gap. What would happen if I only lowered the rear? The measurments from the wheelwell to the ground up front was 27" and the rear is 28.5" Any other ideas? They should have designed the car with smaller wheelwells, what were they thinking?
Yea I put the jack under the leaf until the bushing raised off of the control arm but the bolt still wouldnt budge. I cant believe how easy it rounded off, and again 12 point wrenches shouldnt even exist. I want to lower only because I cant stand the wheelwell gap. What would happen if I only lowered the rear? The measurments from the wheelwell to the ground up front was 27" and the rear is 28.5" Any other ideas? They should have designed the car with smaller wheelwells, what were they thinking?
You hit the nail on the head...it isn't that the C5/Z06 doesn't already sit low enough, it's that the wheel well openings are just to large.
Your adjustment bolts may be rusted into the insert within the spring. If it doesn't come loose with liberal amounts of lubricant, you may be out of luck.
Another member recently had the same issue and decided to BFH pound the bolt/insert out of the fiberglass spring. Then he heated the bolt, releasing it from the insert. He thought the insert was firmly seated back into the spring, but he experienced front end noises. I think he's looking for a new spring now...
Last edited by hotwheels57; Oct 1, 2008 at 05:27 PM.
As stated before, if your still @ the point to get the front down lower, your going to turn the adjuster from the bottom w/ a pipe wrench or a LARGE pair of channel locks(17") Use this proceedure to get in there to get it done(http://www.corvetteforum.cc/techtips...D=90&TopicID=1) Being that you have goobered up the top of your adjusters, you need to take both sides out and go w/ after market adjusters. Thats not a problem as you can get them from WCC. They will come w/out the bushings and you will still have plenty of threads to go back to stock height, if & when you want. Soak them puppies w, PBBlaster. If they don't budge, heat the goobered upper part just a little. They should start to turn and take them all the way out from the bottom. Then put in the new ones w/ plenty of lube on the threads and a little on the bottom pad and on the lower arm where they will be sitting. Come on, lets get this done! Good luck.
Thanks guys. Took the whole side apart and got it to turn and then got it lowered on all 4 corners. Only took about 2 hours. Ill post up new measurements after it settles.