When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Guys I have a buddy with the same year as mine (2000) also both 6 speeds but he does not have dual climate control (if it matters), his BCM may be to blame for his no start/wont stay running issue (grounds are good thus far) so we need to know if we can SAFLEY swap my BCM into his car just to see if it will start/run WITH NO problems whatsoever? I dont know if it will need to be reprogrammed back to my car after we remove it? Anyone have any info on this? THANKS!
Guys I have a buddy with the same year as mine (2000) also both 6 speeds but he does not have dual climate control (if it matters), his BCM may be to blame for his no start/wont stay running issue (grounds are good thus far) so we need to know if we can SAFLEY swap my BCM into his car just to see if it will start/run WITH NO problems whatsoever? I dont know if it will need to be reprogrammed back to my car after we remove it? Anyone have any info on this? THANKS!
Don
The BCM would be the last place that I would start with. Each BCM is synced with the PCM and unless their RE-SYNCED, the engine will not run.
There is a PCM/BCM sync procedure but, I dont know if it will cause you to lose an factory programmed in RPO Codes that were programmed into yours OR His BCM.
The symptoms that your describing sounds VERY similar to an ignition switch problem. What DTCs are being displayed?
I have a post that details the complete ignition switch rebuild. Its FREE and fairly easy to do:
Check out the post and see if sounds like your issues:
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
After driving the car to TV, car show and Newcastle with the jumped fuel pump relay, car off then unplugged jump,,,, ran codes as follows:
U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
No current codes
I jumped the relay and restart and let the engine run,,,,shut off engine reran codes after clearing before I started,,,,leaving fuel pump relay jumped for codes check,,,,,codes as follows:
The PCM supplies the FUEL PUMP RUN signal to the F/PUMP Relay# 35 via relay pin 150. The relay could be bad. I would swap it with a similar relay. I recommend removing the relay and checking #150 to ground. The ground wire goes through Splice Pack 122 then to ground G-105. That ground point is located at drivers side of the block near the oil filter.
If the ground is good, use the meter to measure the PCM Fuel Pump relay ON signal to ground (it should be battery voltage 12 VDC). If that is good the PCM is good.
The grounds at G-101 and 102 can and have effected fuel pump operation. I would remove and clean them. Make sure that you seperate the plug from the connector and clean the plug pins.
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The PCM supplies the FUEL PUMP RUN signal to the F/PUMP Relay# 35 via relay pin 150. The relay could be bad. I would swap it with a similar relay. I recommend removing the relay and checking #150 to ground. The ground wire goes through Splice Pack 122 then to ground G-105. That ground point is located at drivers side of the block near the oil filter.
If the ground is good, use the meter to measure the PCM Fuel Pump relay ON signal to ground (it should be battery voltage 12 VDC). If that is good the PCM is good.
The grounds at G-101 and 102 can and have effected fuel pump operation. I would remove and clean them. Make sure that you seperate the plug from the connector and clean the plug pins.
BC
I have done most of the above but will verify tomorrow!
Thanks Bill!
Keep and eye out for this thread tomorrow around 8:00 p.m. CDST
Must be over at Polaris Point servicing the submarines.
I did a stint over there when I was in the Navy some time ago (1977 - 1978) use to service the nuclear reactors.
Should be really hot and humid. I wonder what it all looks like now.
Have a safe trip.
Yea, it HOT and HUMID but nice in it's own unique way. Diving is WONDERFUL. They have a Horse and Cow Bar now. I bet it hasnt changed much since then.
The Rep here quit so,,,were taking turns manning the site.
Silverbullet00
Any luck troubleshooting that fuel pump circuit?? Let us know how it turns out.
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Drove the car with the FP relay jumped again today, No Codes. Checked and cleaned the grounds you pointed out and car would not stay running unless the relay was jumped! No codes after failed start attempt either!
Drove the car with the FP relay jumped again today, No Codes. Checked and cleaned the grounds you pointed out and car would not stay running unless the relay was jumped! No codes after failed start attempt either!
Once you have the car RUNNING, check the Dark Green/White wire (Circ Relay Pin# 465) with a volt meter to ground. If you see 12 VDC there, the PCm is giving that relay the signal to turn on. If NOT, theck that wire down to the PCM and make sure its intact.
If you have the 12 VDC signal check the ground wire BLACK circ relay pin 150 to ground. You should have close to ZERO OHMS.
We know the pump works, just trying to figure out whats causing the relay not to work.
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Once you have the car RUNNING, check the Dark Green/White wire (Circ Relay Pin# 465) with a volt meter to ground. If you see 12 VDC there, the PCm is giving that relay the signal to turn on. If NOT, theck that wire down to the PCM and make sure its intact.
If you have the 12 VDC signal check the ground wire BLACK circ relay pin 150 to ground. You should have close to ZERO OHMS.
We know the pump works, just trying to figure out whats causing the relay not to work.
BC
I passed my level of competence a while back. Several of my friends who know way more than me, including you and thanks so much, have been trying to help. I am having the car looked at this morning by a GM Tech.
I will let you know IF he finds anything. I am armed with a lot of troubling shooting info thanks to all the great people on the Corvette Forum.
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Bill,
You are not gonna believe this, or you will?
Took the car to the dealer with the jump in place. The first thing their tech does is remove the jump and reinstall my old FP relay. Car started and ran. They called me and told me they could not get the car to replicate the start dies prob and the fuel pump is doing what it should. No codes.
I had asked the service rep to call me before the tech did anything. They didn't and I never got to speak with him. I picked the car up and it started and ran drove it around then home. Codes:
Took the car to the dealer with the jump in place. The first thing their tech does is remove the jump and reinstall my old FP relay. Car started and ran. They called me and told me they could not get the car to replicate the start dies prob and the fuel pump is doing what it should. No codes.
I had asked the service rep to call me before the tech did anything. They didn't and I never got to speak with him. I picked the car up and it started and ran drove it around then home. Codes:
U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
Car is still starting and running?
WTF?
Those codes are history and basically could result from the battery being disconnected or some other lodss of communication.
BCM works like a computer network and those "U" in the front codes mean a loss of communication.
The "H" codes mean history and no longer active.
If you get a "C" after a code that is a current problem and what you should focus attention on.
Took the car to the dealer with the jump in place. The first thing their tech does is remove the jump and reinstall my old FP relay. Car started and ran. They called me and told me they could not get the car to replicate the start dies prob and the fuel pump is doing what it should. No codes.
I had asked the service rep to call me before the tech did anything. They didn't and I never got to speak with him. I picked the car up and it started and ran drove it around then home. Codes:
U1096H
U1064H
U1016H
Car is still starting and running?
WTF?
Keep that jumper handy!!! Well, at least you know that its intermittant!
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Keep that jumper handy!!! Well, at least you know that its intermittant!
Keep us up to date on the issue.
BC
I left specific instruction for them to call me BEFORE
they did anything so that they could try your latest ideas. They didn't and you can bet I will keep the "jumper" handy!
I have never gotten those three codes as "C" in all the time the car has been acting up. Question, since they plugged in the old relay and the fuel pump acted "normal" could I have a bad connection in the plug the relay goes in? It rained here today so the humidity was high. could the high humidity allow an otherwise very low voltage circuit like the relays under the hood make an intermittant loss of voltage work when it wouldn't if the air was dry,,,,,grabbing at straws
It's really difficult to fix something that ain't broke. You may have to wait til' it starts acting up again to begin the troubleshooting process again, but you may want to wiggle wires and tap on the relay while it's acting ok to see if you can bring the problem back.