Best head gasket and studs?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 6
From: Little Rock Arkansas
Best head gasket and studs?
Looking for the best head gasket and studs for a LS2 402 with AFR 225 72 cc heads. I am using cometic 4.135 x 40 gaskets right now with standard ARP studs. It is lifting the head and pushing water right at 800rw at 5600 rpms. The car use to be a 6 speed and recently converted to auto. It started this right after the conversion.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Looking for the best head gasket and studs for a LS2 402 with AFR 225 72 cc heads. I am using cometic 4.135 x 40 gaskets right now with standard ARP studs. It is lifting the head and pushing water right at 800rw at 5600 rpms. The car use to be a 6 speed and recently converted to auto. It started this right after the conversion.
For gaskets, use the GM MLS for the LS3. You could also try some Yamabond #4 around the water courses. Also, when you change the gaskets, have the block and head decks looked at carefully and have them cleaned up as necessary. Once you install the new gaskets and get the heads buttoned up, don't add water / coolant. Dry start the motor and let it get up to operating temperature. Shut it down and let it cool off. Retorque all the heads studs. Now add water / coolant.
For studs I think you should use ARP L19 tool steel (these are not the regular ARP studs - they make them in batches once in a while but be careful with any exposure to moisture) or the Katech multiphase C5R 7/16" studs (you will have to use a TimeSert head stud conversion in the block). The ARP L19 studs can take about 82 ft-lbf and the Katech C5R studs can take 95 ft-lbf.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,513
Likes: 4
From: Pl Grove Utah
How much boost ? How much timing ? I would talk to Phil about it,years of experience there,but my initial thoughts are cylinder pressure caused by too much timing. I have run slightly over 18psi on stock GM heads(317s) on my 402 and driven it home(over an hour) after multiple runs,no signs of coolant loss or heat issues. Keep me posted as the very problem you are having is what worries me most and the whole reason I bought an aftermarket head to replace my 317s.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,876
Likes: 8
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '06 & '12
I ahve a set of ARP head studs for a 2004+ block. They can be used as many times as you want. I'd sell them for 180.00 shipped
You can also go with a set of ARP head studs in the ARP2000 material. This will set you back about 300-350 bucks retail.
The BEST possible studs you can get is the L19's. These take roughly 5-7 weeks to get in, and will run you right around 550 bucks..
The above info is per ARP...
The L19 studs can be bought by special order through ARP only. To give you an idea, my L19 head studs for my 6 bolt heads was over 600 bucks.
No vendors get any discounts on them. So your better off going straight to ARP.This way they dont charge OVER retail.
But watch out for the L19's. They will rust when used on a street car.
Personally, I would go to the ARP2000's. Their better than the standard version, AND I can hook you up on a set. Thats what I ultimately ended up doing. I couldnt wait the 5-7 weeks..
As far as head gaskets go, I prefer Cometic... Alot of guys b!tch about them, but thats only cause they dont prep the block correctly. The Cometic gaskets require a certain surface roughness to get the proper seal. If you just slap them on, and dont run the proper studs, you'll pop a gasket..
You can also go with a set of ARP head studs in the ARP2000 material. This will set you back about 300-350 bucks retail.
The BEST possible studs you can get is the L19's. These take roughly 5-7 weeks to get in, and will run you right around 550 bucks..
- The standard studs get you right around 75lbs of clamping force
- The ARP 2000 studs get you right around 105lbs
- The L19's get you right around 135lbs.
The above info is per ARP...
The L19 studs can be bought by special order through ARP only. To give you an idea, my L19 head studs for my 6 bolt heads was over 600 bucks.
No vendors get any discounts on them. So your better off going straight to ARP.This way they dont charge OVER retail.But watch out for the L19's. They will rust when used on a street car.
Personally, I would go to the ARP2000's. Their better than the standard version, AND I can hook you up on a set. Thats what I ultimately ended up doing. I couldnt wait the 5-7 weeks..
As far as head gaskets go, I prefer Cometic... Alot of guys b!tch about them, but thats only cause they dont prep the block correctly. The Cometic gaskets require a certain surface roughness to get the proper seal. If you just slap them on, and dont run the proper studs, you'll pop a gasket..
Last edited by Jeff @ TPE; Oct 5, 2008 at 05:13 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 2
From: Niagara Falls NY
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I ahve a set of ARP head studs for a 2004+ block. They can be used as many times as you want. I'd sell them for 180.00 shipped
You can also go with a set of ARP head studs in the ARP2000 material. This will set you back about 300-350 bucks retail.
The BEST possible studs you can get is the L19's. These take roughly 5-7 weeks to get in, and will run you right around 550 bucks..
The above info is per ARP...
The L19 studs can be bought by special order through ARP only. To give you an idea, my L19 head studs for my 6 bolt heads was over 600 bucks. No vendors get any discounts on them. So your better off going straight to ARP.This way they dont charge OVER retail.
But watch out for the L19's. They will rust when used on a street car.
Personally, I would go to the ARP2000's. Their better than the standard version, AND I can hook you up on a set. Thats what I ultimately ended up doing. I couldnt wait the 5-7 weeks..
As far as head gaskets go, I prefer Cometic... Alot of guys b!tch about them, but thats only cause they dont prep the block correctly. The Cometic gaskets require a certain surface roughness to get the proper seal. If you just slap them on, and dont run the proper studs, you'll pop a gasket..
You can also go with a set of ARP head studs in the ARP2000 material. This will set you back about 300-350 bucks retail.
The BEST possible studs you can get is the L19's. These take roughly 5-7 weeks to get in, and will run you right around 550 bucks..
- The standard studs get you right around 75lbs of clamping force
- The ARP 2000 studs get you right around 105lbs
- The L19's get you right around 135lbs.
The above info is per ARP...
The L19 studs can be bought by special order through ARP only. To give you an idea, my L19 head studs for my 6 bolt heads was over 600 bucks.
No vendors get any discounts on them. So your better off going straight to ARP.This way they dont charge OVER retail.But watch out for the L19's. They will rust when used on a street car.
Personally, I would go to the ARP2000's. Their better than the standard version, AND I can hook you up on a set. Thats what I ultimately ended up doing. I couldnt wait the 5-7 weeks..
As far as head gaskets go, I prefer Cometic... Alot of guys b!tch about them, but thats only cause they dont prep the block correctly. The Cometic gaskets require a certain surface roughness to get the proper seal. If you just slap them on, and dont run the proper studs, you'll pop a gasket..
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
If the heads are lifting, you are overcoming the stud pre-load. That being the case, you need more pre-load which means a higher strength stud that will allow more initial torque (pre-load) or a different diameter that will take more torque to bring it to the prescribed percentage of yield for the stud material. Up until the point of head lift, the load in the stud remains the same. Gasket is not relevant, you have a preload issue that any gasket will fail with. I would focus attention there.
I would contact ARP directly and get their input as well.
I would contact ARP directly and get their input as well.
