Adjustable End-Links
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 239
Likes: 2
From: Georgetown TX
Adjustable End-Links
Anyone using the adjustable end-links from Eckler's or other vendor? I've got a set that I'm installing on my new Z51 sway bars, and just don't seem to get it about how they should be installed or adjusted. I've done the rears and they look "okay" but I'm concerned about adjustment, etc.
The links are currently set to the shortest length, which is real close to the original plastic ones, and I'm wondering what happens if I lengthen them equally? What happens if I lengthen one side more than the other? Do I use all of the spacers, or just what's necessary to get them looking "right" or vertical?
Also, anyone have a sugguestion or two on good suspension/handling books for basic setup, etc? As you can tell, I'm rather confused, even for me!
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Dennis
The links are currently set to the shortest length, which is real close to the original plastic ones, and I'm wondering what happens if I lengthen them equally? What happens if I lengthen one side more than the other? Do I use all of the spacers, or just what's necessary to get them looking "right" or vertical?Also, anyone have a sugguestion or two on good suspension/handling books for basic setup, etc? As you can tell, I'm rather confused, even for me!
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Dennis
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 1
From: Littleton Colorado
I'd just get the GM metal end links. The adjsutable ones are more for road racing where they have the engineering know how to know when to adjust the different corners for different tracks. I couldn't really tell you how to adjust them, the front and back have different effects, like more understeer and oversteer. Its a complicated subject.
From what I've read, and I could be wrong, for initial setup the Vette is usually setup with no preload. That is, adjust the end links to where they will bolt right up to the a-arms without having to push or pull on the sway bar. And, I'm pretty sure its done with the wheels off the ground, so there is no load on the suspension. But, I would say you should go and do some searches in the autox/roadrace forum for better info.
They can have a draw back of being noisy as well. At least that was the case, maybe they have been redesigned to avoid that. I still have adjustables in the rear, but have the solid gm metal ones up front. The fronts were very noisy, they were old Hotchkis ones that had the design issues.
From what I've read, and I could be wrong, for initial setup the Vette is usually setup with no preload. That is, adjust the end links to where they will bolt right up to the a-arms without having to push or pull on the sway bar. And, I'm pretty sure its done with the wheels off the ground, so there is no load on the suspension. But, I would say you should go and do some searches in the autox/roadrace forum for better info.
They can have a draw back of being noisy as well. At least that was the case, maybe they have been redesigned to avoid that. I still have adjustables in the rear, but have the solid gm metal ones up front. The fronts were very noisy, they were old Hotchkis ones that had the design issues.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
Yeah, I would post this in the AutoX/Road Race section and you will likely gets lots of good info.
I have the Hotchkis adjustable end links on my Z right now (they aren't making any noise yet). Maybe I got lucky or the ride height is good with the LG Coilovers I have installed.
I made sure I had them installed just like the factory links were in basic orientation. I also installed mine with no load on the suspension at all. Tires were in the air at the time removing the leaf springs, shocks and factory bars.
I couldn't begin to tell you what effect the adjustments would make on them so I have no intention at this point in doing any fiddling.
I have the Hotchkis adjustable end links on my Z right now (they aren't making any noise yet). Maybe I got lucky or the ride height is good with the LG Coilovers I have installed.
I made sure I had them installed just like the factory links were in basic orientation. I also installed mine with no load on the suspension at all. Tires were in the air at the time removing the leaf springs, shocks and factory bars.
I couldn't begin to tell you what effect the adjustments would make on them so I have no intention at this point in doing any fiddling.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If you want to improve your c5 handling, you dont need any special books... Just do this!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1984955
Already tried and proven and flat out works!
BC
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1984955
Already tried and proven and flat out works!
BC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 239
Likes: 2
From: Georgetown TX
Thanks to everyone so far!
Bill, I read that thread earlier today, but it didn't answer my questions.
MattB and Goody, I'm setting them up with no preload, wheels off, but suspension hanging. Hope this works to get started!
I'll post this in the AutoX section (forgot about them!) and see what I get.
Dennis
Bill, I read that thread earlier today, but it didn't answer my questions.
MattB and Goody, I'm setting them up with no preload, wheels off, but suspension hanging. Hope this works to get started!
I'll post this in the AutoX section (forgot about them!) and see what I get.
Dennis
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
They should be set equal length on both sides so the bar isn't loaded into a twist. The length could be changed to eliminate any interference if the bar hits on something but still keep both sides the same length. If you want to get really technical you could corner weigh and adjust the car to get it most level and balanced with you in it. Run the car onto a wheel hoist so the weight is never taken off the wheels. Then, you would adjust the links so they line up without putting the bar into any twist to install them neutral to match your suspension setup. I think you'd have to unhook one end of the swaybar and then adjust and drive (just a short drive) and weigh and adjust and drive and weigh till you got it where you wanted it before re-installing the link.
Honestly, the GM ones are around $24 each from GMPartshouse.com and they work just as well for most street use.
Peter
Honestly, the GM ones are around $24 each from GMPartshouse.com and they work just as well for most street use.
Peter
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 1
From: Riviera Beach FL
For everyday use and some hpde they should be set with the weight of the car resting on the wheels. Attach one side and adjust the other side so that it just slides into place with little effort. The first side should be close to the length of the factory link to maintain proper geometry, however lengthening them a bit will not hurt. You should also have some one near your weight sit in the drivers seat when making adjustments.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 239
Likes: 2
From: Georgetown TX
More thanks to Doug and Lionel! I'm learning more every day, and what I've come up with so far is that I wish I had just gone ahead and gotten the metal GM ones! Although, if I ever do get the chance to try AutoX or Solo, I'll be able to tweak the bars to overcome any chassis shortcomings (wish it was that easy for the Driver's shortcomings!).
Thanks to all!
Dennis
Thanks to all!
Dennis
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