I think it's my starter......
Starter is original, so chances are its the starter, right? No neutral safety switch?
Last edited by cam99; Oct 15, 2008 at 06:00 PM.





- Check the battery terminals. Make sure that there clean and tight. Torque them to 11 ft/lbs (FREE)
-- Check the battery connections to the STARTER and engine block!!! The engine ground is G-106 and MUST be clean and tight. There are wires on the starter that frequently get loose and or fried! Check the wires for tightness and make sure there not over heated and burnt. All the wires on the solenoid have FUSABLE LINKS in them (the fat part of the wires ) (FREE)
The PURPLE Wire on the solenoid is what tells your car to start. It comes from the C5 starter/clutch/trans safety circuit through the Theft Deterrent Realy ( TDR).
-- Check the clutch safety switch (its on the fire wall where the clutch bumper contacts the foot well/fire wall. Thats a safety switch and they have been KNOWN to go bad! Check the resistance of the switch. It should be ZERO when the switch is deperessed. You can disassembel and clean that switch fairly easy. (FREE)
-- Next in line is the Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) Its in the passngers foot well on the fire wall above the Body Control Module. It will have FOUT wires PURPLE, RED (hot at all times) yellow and Yelow Black stripe. Using a meter you can ckeck voltages on the red wire (12 VDC Hot at all times). When you have someone start the car (and it fails to start) check voltage on the PURPLE wire) It should be 12 VDC when ever the car is being CRANKED and all conditions are properly met to start the car. (FREE)
The BCM (once all security and safety gates have been met and the key is turned to START) tells the TDR relay to close and run the starter motor (via energizing the starter solenoid)
I tested / checked ALL the wires and grounds, checked the clutch switch, replaced the TDR and still had the issue. My issue turned out to be a defective starter solenoid. I went to a local starter /alternator rebuld shop and ordered a new solenoid ($40) and installed it. PROBLEM SOLVED! I have yet to actually see a BAD C5 starter. All the other things that support the starter but never a BAD starter.
NOTE! I could have someone hold the key to start and I could tap the solenoid and or starter with a hammed and the car would start!

Replacing the $40. SOLENOID is a whole LOT less money than a new starter!! I didnt charge my self the labor time to remove the starter and reinstall it but, that just called C5 BONDING!

BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Oct 15, 2008 at 10:50 PM.
To the OP, Bill has a writeup on the disassembly and repair of the ignition switch if you look it up.





I would normaly include that switch BUT,,, the START circuit is a lower current circuit and doesnt normaly have arc issues like the other 4 circuits/contacts inside the switch. It doesnt rule out the switch but it something that I would check last.
I see more key on or HOT IN RUN and START circuit issues because there draw a lot more current. Things like the car just shuts off or the IPC resets its self like when you first turn the key.
BC
Bill
This is what I expected from this wonderful forum, help before I throw good money at what might not be the root cause.
Thanks Again!
Last edited by cam99; Oct 16, 2008 at 11:39 AM.





