Have clutch - what else while I'm in there?
Thread Starter
CF Senior Moments Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Have clutch - what else while I'm in there?
Replacing clutch -
Have tunnel plate (arrived today)
Have SPEC clutch pressure plate etc., throw out bearing new slave
Have DTE and Pfadt tranny brace ready
Have Pfdat coil-overs ordered
Have A& A S/C (arrived today)
Have Tick Performance Adjustable Master cyl ordered
Have Tick Performance remote bleeder kit ordered
What else should I be looking for - while doing the clutch?
Thank you
Have tunnel plate (arrived today)
Have SPEC clutch pressure plate etc., throw out bearing new slave
Have DTE and Pfadt tranny brace ready
Have Pfdat coil-overs ordered
Have A& A S/C (arrived today)
Have Tick Performance Adjustable Master cyl ordered
Have Tick Performance remote bleeder kit ordered
What else should I be looking for - while doing the clutch?
Thank you
Last edited by 1stGlance; Oct 21, 2008 at 03:32 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 17,103
Likes: 39
From: stop the fun suckers
I would think you would want to replace the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, clutch master, torque tube bushings. I would think you would also want to ADD a remote bleed, and line insulation on the clutch lines.. Also I would replace the fluid with a good high temp super DOT4 fluid (like GM's clutch fluid for the C6 Z06/ZR1)..
good luck!
good luck!
Thread Starter
CF Senior Moments Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
I would think you would want to replace the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, clutch master, torque tube bushings. I would think you would also want to ADD a remote bleed, and line insulation on the clutch lines.. Also I would replace the fluid with a good high temp super DOT4 fluid (like GM's clutch fluid for the C6 Z06/ZR1)..
good luck!
good luck!
Much appreciated - thank you all!
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Thread Starter
CF Senior Moments Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Thank you -
I'm looking for that (?) purple/?/red AMS oil or something like that for a replacement - heard it makes it smoother and shifts better does someone know the correct name and where I can get it? - local auto store - maybe?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 5
From: Overland Park KS
pilot bearing goes into the crank. Big PITA to remove, simple to install. You can get a pilot bearing tool to rent from auto parts stores. I put my new bearing in the freezer overnite and it tapped right in. There are several posts on removing and installing it. I had a new motor so I didn't go through all the trouble removing the old one.
Thread Starter
CF Senior Moments Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
pilot bearing goes into the crank. Big PITA to remove, simple to install. You can get a pilot bearing tool to rent from auto parts stores. I put my new bearing in the freezer overnite and it tapped right in. There are several posts on removing and installing it. I had a new motor so I didn't go through all the trouble removing the old one.
Thank you - love the freezer idea
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
Get the little stuff too.
Threadlocking compound for the flywheel bolts.
Brake parts cleaner to clean the flywheel and pressure plate.
Use a new flywheel not the old one.
I got my remote clutch bleeder from L.A.P.D. guys to the left.<<<<----
If you don't already have a short throw shifter now is the time to install that one too.
Change the fluids out on both the tranny and diff. I used Mobil1 tranny fluid and Royal Purple for the diff. Both available at all my local parts stores.
Remove/replace the diff seals if they are leaking at all. Order from Gene to save some money.
I inspected my driveline bushings and they were perfect condition so nothing to replace there.
While you have the dash half apart, take it one step further and remove the ignition switch and clean the contacts. Bill Curlee did a real good write up on this procedure. Wish I had read it while I had mine apart. I will be doing this next month anyway just to see if a little gremlin goes away that comes around from time to time.
Threadlocking compound for the flywheel bolts.
Brake parts cleaner to clean the flywheel and pressure plate.
Use a new flywheel not the old one.
I got my remote clutch bleeder from L.A.P.D. guys to the left.<<<<----
If you don't already have a short throw shifter now is the time to install that one too.
Change the fluids out on both the tranny and diff. I used Mobil1 tranny fluid and Royal Purple for the diff. Both available at all my local parts stores.
Remove/replace the diff seals if they are leaking at all. Order from Gene to save some money.
I inspected my driveline bushings and they were perfect condition so nothing to replace there.
While you have the dash half apart, take it one step further and remove the ignition switch and clean the contacts. Bill Curlee did a real good write up on this procedure. Wish I had read it while I had mine apart. I will be doing this next month anyway just to see if a little gremlin goes away that comes around from time to time.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
Correct products for the tranny and diff are:
Tranny: AMSOIL ATF (stock code ATFQT)
Diff: AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (stock code SVGQT)
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C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
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AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
Thread Starter
CF Senior Moments Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Thank you - all suggestion are much appreciated There seems to be both pro and cons regarding the anti-venom mod
Some folks like it - have had it without issues for long time & many miles
Some folks think it doesn't feel right - etc.
The below part I copied from doing a search:
The original anti venom mod eliminates the detent completely, people began using washers as a way to get around buying the anti venom mod plug.
Detents play a valuable role in the operation of the transmission. Having a solid mechanism to hold shift forks in a neutral position and keeping undue drag/pressure off the forks and shift assembly extend the life of synchros, idlers, shift forks, and other associated components.
Once again, its my opinion that removing or even lessening the detent action just makes the trans feel worn out. You want a positive feel to the shifts.
Last edited by 1stGlance; Oct 21, 2008 at 03:43 PM.