1stGlance

Replacing clutch -
Have tunnel plate (arrived today)
Have SPEC clutch pressure plate etc., throw out bearing new slave
Have DTE and Pfadt tranny brace ready
Have Pfdat coil-overs ordered
Have A& A S/C (arrived today)
Have Tick Performance Adjustable Master cyl ordered
Have Tick Performance remote bleeder kit ordered



What else should I be looking for - while doing the clutch?

Thank you

stormrider

Tunnel Plate from CCA (Wilfullone) or Elite Engineering

Independent1

Put in a new slave.

Get your remote bleeder from Charlie @ RPM motors.

GettnBetter

A new throwout bearing would be a good idea too.

T.J.

Check your emergency brake cables for wear and tear and replace as needed. Drain and fill your differential.

Z06_BluByU

I would think you would want to replace the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, clutch master, torque tube bushings. I would think you would also want to ADD a remote bleed, and line insulation on the clutch lines.. Also I would replace the fluid with a good high temp super DOT4 fluid (like GM's clutch fluid for the C6 Z06/ZR1)..



good luck!

1stGlance

Thank you - much apprecited!

1stGlance

Much appreciated - thank you all!

1stGlance

Thank you -

I'm looking for that (?) purple/?/red AMS oil or something like that for a replacement - heard it makes it smoother and shifts better does someone know the correct name and where I can get it? - local auto store - maybe?

T.J.

I would look to your left if all else. It's toward the top of the vendors (AMSOIL).

KCvetteowner

pilot bearing goes into the crank. Big PITA to remove, simple to install. You can get a pilot bearing tool to rent from auto parts stores. I put my new bearing in the freezer overnite and it tapped right in. There are several posts on removing and installing it. I had a new motor so I didn't go through all the trouble removing the old one.

1stGlance

Thank you - love the freezer idea

1stGlance

I should also do a search - I'm sure

Goody

Get the little stuff too.
Threadlocking compound for the flywheel bolts.
Brake parts cleaner to clean the flywheel and pressure plate.
Use a new flywheel not the old one.

I got my remote clutch bleeder from L.A.P.D. guys to the left.<<<<----

If you don't already have a short throw shifter now is the time to install that one too.

Change the fluids out on both the tranny and diff. I used Mobil1 tranny fluid and Royal Purple for the diff. Both available at all my local parts stores.

Remove/replace the diff seals if they are leaking at all. Order from Gene to save some money.

I inspected my driveline bushings and they were perfect condition so nothing to replace there.

While you have the dash half apart, take it one step further and remove the ignition switch and clean the contacts. Bill Curlee did a real good write up on this procedure. Wish I had read it while I had mine apart. I will be doing this next month anyway just to see if a little gremlin goes away that comes around from time to time.

golfinz

Tick performance has a new adjustable master cylinder kit...check into that.

waddisme

They are also running a special on their new remote bleeders.

C66 Racing

If you do decide to go with AMSOIL, you can use the link to the left or the info in my sig and order online.

Correct products for the tranny and diff are:
Tranny: AMSOIL ATF (stock code ATFQT)
Diff: AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (stock code SVGQT)

MattB

C6 Z06 shifter, anti-venom mod.

1stGlance

Thank you - all suggestion are much appreciated

There seems to be both pro and cons regarding the anti-venom mod
Some folks like it - have had it without issues for long time & many miles
Some folks think it doesn't feel right - etc.

The below part I copied from doing a search:
The original anti venom mod eliminates the detent completely, people began using washers as a way to get around buying the anti venom mod plug.

Detents play a valuable role in the operation of the transmission. Having a solid mechanism to hold shift forks in a neutral position and keeping undue drag/pressure off the forks and shift assembly extend the life of synchros, idlers, shift forks, and other associated components.

Once again, its my opinion that removing or even lessening the detent action just makes the trans feel worn out. You want a positive feel to the shifts.