Another Balancer replacement question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 63
From: Staten Island NY
Another Balancer replacement question
I am looking at replacing my harmonic balancer (came loose at a track rental last week) with the SLP balancer. Seems like the exact same thing as the Powerbond balancer. Anyone know if it is?
But my real question is about using the old stock bolt to install the new balancer with. I have read many posts advising not to use the old bolt for anything. However the instructions with the SLP balancer say to use a balancer install tool, then the old bolt to torque the new balancer down to 240 foot pounds and then remove the old bolt install the new bolt. (Using the 2 sequence- of first 37 foot pounds and than 140 degrees)
So either use the old bolt in the installation or not?
Thanks!
But my real question is about using the old stock bolt to install the new balancer with. I have read many posts advising not to use the old bolt for anything. However the instructions with the SLP balancer say to use a balancer install tool, then the old bolt to torque the new balancer down to 240 foot pounds and then remove the old bolt install the new bolt. (Using the 2 sequence- of first 37 foot pounds and than 140 degrees)
So either use the old bolt in the installation or not?
Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,143
From: Dyer, IN
I am looking at replacing my harmonic balancer (came loose at a track rental last week) with the SLP balancer. Seems like the exact same thing as the Powerbond balancer. Anyone know if it is?
But my real question is about using the old stock bolt to install the new balancer with. I have read many posts advising not to use the old bolt for anything. However the instructions with the SLP balancer say to use a balancer install tool, then the old bolt to torque the new balancer down to 240 foot pounds and then remove the old bolt install the new bolt. (Using the 2 sequence- of first 37 foot pounds and than 140 degrees)
So either use the old bolt in the installation or not?
Thanks!
But my real question is about using the old stock bolt to install the new balancer with. I have read many posts advising not to use the old bolt for anything. However the instructions with the SLP balancer say to use a balancer install tool, then the old bolt to torque the new balancer down to 240 foot pounds and then remove the old bolt install the new bolt. (Using the 2 sequence- of first 37 foot pounds and than 140 degrees)
So either use the old bolt in the installation or not?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 63
From: Staten Island NY
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,143
From: Dyer, IN
Problem is, some guys try to cheap out, and actually used the old bolt as an installation tool, or used the old bolt for the new balancer. Neither of which are permissible.
As LDB C5 pointed out, you can also go with an ARP bolt, which is reusable.
Does this make sense?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 63
From: Staten Island NY
Yes.
I guess using the old bolt as the installation tool puts more stress on it than just applying 240 foot pounds to it during that phase. It would suck for it to snap in the crank snout.
Thanks for the input.
I guess using the old bolt as the installation tool puts more stress on it than just applying 240 foot pounds to it during that phase. It would suck for it to snap in the crank snout.
Thanks for the input.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,143
From: Dyer, IN
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1545929...98350/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1545929...98404/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1545929...98456/sizes/l/
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Go over to LS1tech and type in crank or balancer tool. There is a guy that sells a nice tool for like $50. Works great.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,757
Likes: 13
From: Stillman Valley Illinois
The factory crank bolt (like the factory head bolts) are "Torque to yield". That's why there is a torque spec AND then a specified number of degrees past that point. I would not even use the old bot to seat the balencer. If it snaps in the crank, you could be in for lots of fun getting it out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
I got lucky when I installed mine, using a slightly longer bolt from the hardware store as an initial installation tool, to get plenty of thread bite when starting it on. I was very careful; heated the balancer to 200 in the wife's oven, threw an ice bag on the crank, oiled the crap out of everything; and it started right on with minimal effort. Once started for about 5 turns, I switched to the old crank bolt and did the 240 lbft thing; then installed a new bolt per instructions.
But..... after reading about stripped threads here, and the availability of a reasonably priced install tool now, I think I wouldn't take that chance again.
But.... if you do decide to try the bolt method, please do all the things above, and take it slow and easy.
DG
But..... after reading about stripped threads here, and the availability of a reasonably priced install tool now, I think I wouldn't take that chance again.
But.... if you do decide to try the bolt method, please do all the things above, and take it slow and easy.
DG
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 798
Likes: 2
From: Notorious Miami sunny south florida
Never use the old bolt. The bolt used by GM is designed to strech when it was originally installed and tightin and when you reuse it it has already been streched out and will not tighten again it will always be loose 
Last edited by road dog; Oct 30, 2008 at 03:53 PM.