Installing New Rotors...
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: D*ck ina Box
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Installing New Rotors...
A lot of people got in on the Extreme deal for the Baer Eradispeeds, another mod burning a hole in my garage ;)
Should you change out the pads at the same time and are ceramic pads a good match?
How many did this themselves and did you "season" the rotors yourself?
If you change the rotors and pads at the same time....how did you follow the seasoning procedure for the rotors and the bedding procedure for the pads at the same time?
Does changing out the pads require the brakes to be bled?
Thanks in advance!
Should you change out the pads at the same time and are ceramic pads a good match?
How many did this themselves and did you "season" the rotors yourself?
If you change the rotors and pads at the same time....how did you follow the seasoning procedure for the rotors and the bedding procedure for the pads at the same time?
Does changing out the pads require the brakes to be bled?
Thanks in advance!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 215
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From: Greeley CO
Re: Installing New Rotors... (Mean Green 2000)
I'm wondering all of the same things myself. Got mine on Thursday but no pads yet, still deciding I guess. Wanted to try this job myself but now wondering if I should just let the dealer do it?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: 02 Viper GTS
Re: Installing New Rotors... (Mean Green 2000)
I had my rotors changed and pads plus I replaced the fluid for Ford Blue plus I upgraded to ss brake lines at the same time. I have slotted rotots and Hawk Hp + pads.
The bedding proces is very short. Just follow the instructions included with your pads and you will be fine.
The bedding proces is very short. Just follow the instructions included with your pads and you will be fine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Louisville KY
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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Re: Installing New Rotors... (Mean Green 2000)
Might as well change to the new pads since you're doing the rotors. As far as bleeding the experience I've had with other cars is after changing the pads and or rotors if the brake pedal is low or spongy it needs to be bled. I think I saw bleeding instructions and sequence in tech tips or through a search. Good Luck
[Modified by pjazz, 6:33 PM 1/12/2002]
[Modified by pjazz, 6:33 PM 1/12/2002]
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 575
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From: Redwood City CA
Re: Installing New Rotors... (Mean Green 2000)
I just put my eradispeeds on last night. I am using the stock pads. I started "seasoning" today. So far so good, although there is a lot of brake dust, so I am sure I am getting some extra wear on the pads because of the rotor change. I will probably have to get new pads early. Anyway, they work great and look even better.
Props to Nate at Extreme for the good deal.
Props to Nate at Extreme for the good deal.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,206
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From: Roswell GA
Re: Installing New Rotors... (jayleone)
I installed the Eradispeeds several months ago. The procedure in the service manual is to NOT require bleeding. 1. You remove the cover of the brake resovour (bad spelling) to make retracting the pads easier. After unbolting the calipers just use a wire to relieve pressure on the brake lines. Change the pads or not, change the rotors, and put the calipers back. As long as the brake cylinders remain retracted it is no problem. You only need to bleed if you let air in the brake system. Taking the cover off the resovour is just to make it easier to retract the cylinders. Others I sought advice from said even that was not necessary. The hardest part is the torque of 140 lps on the main caliper bolt. I hate to admit but it took a sludge hammer :smash: to break mine loose. Good luck. I think in Tec Tips these also is info on this.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Elko, Nevada
Re: Installing New Rotors... (KingTut)
I You only need to bleed if you let air in the brake system...
:cheers:
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From: Lynnfield MA
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Re: Installing New Rotors... (Mean Green 2000)
Ceramic pads will be fine with your new rotors, however I went with the Hawk Street pads both front and rear. Utilizing used pads on new rotors or new rotors with used pads is just a bad investment. Take for example that with your new rotors and are considering used pads, the pads being used have the old rotor characteristics embedded with the pad. You would want a flush, smooth starting surface on both sides enabling you to bed the pads and season the rotors correctly. If your rotors did not come with instructions on how to do this, get them on the manufacturers web site and download the information. Utilizing used pads will most of the time give up severe brake squeal and then you’ll be back to square one and have to do it all over again… I know time is money so why take a risk only to possibly do the job twice… You need not change your fluid during this process since you are not cracking any brake line. You may want to consider stainless brake lines since your going in for this upgrade. Make sure you torque your fittings correctly. Good Luck!
Nick
Nick
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From: TX
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St. Jude Contributor '04
Re: Installing New Rotors... (Mean Green 2000)
Glad you received the rotors Mark and thank you for your purchase!
It is recommended you install new pads with new rotors. We have tried pad offerings from Hawk, EBC and GM Durastop. I cannot recommend any of them because of the dust and squeeling they produce. For everyday driving, I would recommend stock pads, they do a good job in my opinion. Wish I could recommend a different pad but until we find something we like, the GMs are it.
Depending on how much wear you have on your pads, you will need to squeeze the pistons(caliper) in slightly to accomodate new pads. Usually a C clamp will do it. You will need to remove the cap to master cylinder, but you wont have to bleed the brakes or add fluid. We recommend changing the brake fluid at 30k miles because of usage/age, not because you have new rotors and pads...
Seasoning the rotor/pads is an easy procedure. I believe Baer includes instructions for the process with the set.
Thanks again and let us know if you need help!
Nate
[Modified by Nate@xtreme, 12:05 PM 1/13/2002]
It is recommended you install new pads with new rotors. We have tried pad offerings from Hawk, EBC and GM Durastop. I cannot recommend any of them because of the dust and squeeling they produce. For everyday driving, I would recommend stock pads, they do a good job in my opinion. Wish I could recommend a different pad but until we find something we like, the GMs are it.
Depending on how much wear you have on your pads, you will need to squeeze the pistons(caliper) in slightly to accomodate new pads. Usually a C clamp will do it. You will need to remove the cap to master cylinder, but you wont have to bleed the brakes or add fluid. We recommend changing the brake fluid at 30k miles because of usage/age, not because you have new rotors and pads...
Seasoning the rotor/pads is an easy procedure. I believe Baer includes instructions for the process with the set.
Thanks again and let us know if you need help!
Nate
[Modified by Nate@xtreme, 12:05 PM 1/13/2002]