I dont want to simply tighten the bolt, i want to completely remove it so i can install my new bolt.

 

I know, is it stripped so bad you cant remove it or is something in the way?

 

Check this.


http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ighlight=lower

 

i checked that. only thing i didn't do they did was remove the top a-arm. Well guess what. i tried and that damn thing won't separate either!

No, you cannt simply unscrew the bolt and remove it. It is wedged between the leaf spring and bottoms out on the a-arm. In order to remove it, just by unscrewing, the higher you get, the more pressure it puts on the bottoming out of the control arm making it harder and harder and harder to turn it, hence how mine stripped. Therefore, i need to drop the lower control arm so the bolt is completely free and not lodged bottoming out on the control arm. Now i could also remove the leaf spring but i really don't want to mess with undoing the lower a-arm completely so im trying to avoid if necessary. This is rediculous! I might try a pickle fork now but fear i may damage the ball joints. Any other help/input?

 

haha, i cant believe this is being so difficult. I am VERY frustrated at the moment, VERY!

 

I have used a fork on other cars with no damage. But there is also one you can get that is more like a press. Auto part stores usually let you use them for free, with a deposit.

 

I cannot believe no one has recognized the fact that you're Superman. This should be easy for you.
If the adjustment bolts are that difficult, chances are they are rusted to the threaded metal insert that is captured within the spring.
If you attempt to force it, it will probably fail, IE, spin the threaded metal insert loose within the spring. You will probably not be successful in re-using the insert even if you manage to remove it from the adjustment bolts. It will simply spin within the spring.
If that occurs, you will probably need to replace the spring/adjustment bolts, anyway.
Some have successfully used VICE GRIPS once the 10mm hex is damaged. Welding a nut onto the end of the adjustment bolt(s) is a good suggestion provided you have access to the equipment.
An application of high heat sometimes works, but there's dangers in that as well.

 

lol,
ok someone riddle me this...

I got the UPPER a-arm free on both sides. Now this dropped the lower control arm a lot as expected and the bolts are very easy to access. However the damn leaf spring falls with the lower a-arm, WHY????

Its like the bottom of the bold (bushing) is connected to the lower a-arm. Shouldnt the a-arm drop but the leaf spring with the bolt in it stay up? i am very confused as to why they are staying connected.

Now i have each bolt at the point of almost removal, nothing spun, all good. Now on the one with the good head still, i turned it as far as i could into the leaf and now its so far in there i cannot get the socket on the bolt anymore, how am i supposed to turn it the rest of the way out??????

Thanks!

 

The rubber bushing is apparently vulcanized to the control arm...another good reason why the bolt won't loosen.
Spray it liberally with PB BLASTER or your favorite lubricant and pry off with a metal putty knife.
This is the warning I gave in my reply #12.
If you're replacing the damaged bolts anyway, just use VICE GRIPS on the bolts to remove them completely from the spring. Grip the adjustment bolt(s) on the threaded portion beneath the spring (once the bushings are free) and give it hell...

 

heres some up to date pics...

upper arm finally separated


leaf and lower a-arm, cant figure out why the leak spring is tugged down with the a-arm like this?




And here is the good bolt, down as far as i can possibly get it, How do i get it the rest of the way?



and the stripped bastard i have to deal with

 

That brake hose appears to be under a lot of tension right now. If it's old, that could lead to a failure...

 

Ladies and Gentlemen, she is complete!

I proceeded to blast that bushing with PB Blaster and pry it to all hell. The i proceeded to jack the leaf spring again and this finally raised the bolt and bushing free of the a-arm and allowed me to spin it out by hand!

I did to other side, tossed in the new bolts, tightened her all back up and took it for a quick test spin. Everything seems to be good and she is at least 1.5" lower now Pictures are uploading!

Thanks for all your help everyone! Much appreciated

 

 

Looks cool...hard to see any details with the lighting. What are your measurments, ground to fender lip, be sure to measure at the center of the wheel.

 

Since you posted this picture I'll try to explain what I was talking about.

Here is the picture with some labels;



A - mark and remove those 2 a-arm bolts.

B - place to put the jack to push the spring up and take the spring pressure off the A-arm

C - clamps that hold the spring to subframe

You put the car on jackstands, put the jack under point "B" to remove the spring pressure on the a-arm and then remove the bolts "A". Pull-out and work the suspension and the jack so the a-arm is above the end of the spring. Remove the parts "C" and then lower the jack and the spring comes out.

The bolts "A" adjust the alignment so you mark the washer location and put them back in the same location to get the alignment close. You should get the car aligned after lowering anyways so it's not a big deal if it's off a bit.

Remove 6 bolts and you've got the spring out and it's simple easy to work on it or replace it.

OH YES - do not remove or unbolt any of the other stuff in the picture that is shown taken apart.

Peter

 

Thanks! Hopefully this thread will come up beneficial for someone else down the road that runs into the same issues as me. Here are the steps i would follow to remove the front bolts and replace....

1.) jack up front of car (crossmember with a piece of wood is what i did) and secure on jackstands, remove front wheels

2.) unbolt the sway bar links from the lower a-arm, might have to use an allen key to hold the bolt from spinning, unbolt the shocks from the bottom of the a-arm. i used a 13mm deep socket from the bottom and held it with a standard wrench on top.

3.) Jack up the control a-arm until the upper ball joint is facing almost perfectly up and down. Remove the nut to free the upper a-arm, might have to use an allen key again, i did not. Kock a-arm free of ball joint.

4.) Lower the jack and move it to the leaf spring in the Y of the a-arm and jack up the leaf spring to relieve tension. PB blaster may be needed on the 10mm lowering bolt AND bottom bushing to free them up. I used pb blaster and pryed with a flathead screw drivers to free up bushing.

5.) The lowering bolt now if not pressured onto the a-arm, should spin freely by hand. In order for this however, the leaf spring has to be jacked up enough so the lowering bolt in it is risen up from bottoming out on the a-arm

6.) Spin out of the old bolt, if you dont have enough room to get it out, jack up the leaf spring some more and apply some pressure down on the lower a-arm to free some more room.

7.) spin new bolt in

8.) Reinstall everything as you removed it

 

Able to leap tall leaf springs in a single bound!

You are done..........car looks good!

 

thanks, took some measurements today before i left. Front from ground to lip of fender, 26", rear was 27.5" and the front bumper on the corner just after the front wheel was 5.5", air dam in this same spot is a hair under 2". Around on the corner the air dam is only about 1.5"

Front settled a little more and is 25.75" now