Electrical help
Nov 7, 2008 | 11:10 AM
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From: In the woods so F%^$ O&&
St. Jude Donor '17-'18-'19
Electrical help
O.k. guys I have my problem narrowed down. I need help with a wire.
Whoever put the Long tubes in did not care about heat and wires and this is what ended up happening and now I have to re-wire the engine harness.
Here are my pics.
The red wire that then goes to black. Is it supposed to be red and connected to the starter?
As you can see I have the crank sensor wires to re-wire and the oil level sensor wires to rewire as well.
Do not let dealerships install headers!!!!!
Nov 7, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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From: Dyer, IN
Nov 7, 2008 | 11:49 AM
Thread Starter
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From: In the woods so F%^$ O&&
St. Jude Donor '17-'18-'19
I can read schematics but I am not sure if the wire is supposed to be black or red.
The purple 16 guage wire is there to the solenoid
The brownish 10 gauge wire is there, the main red 8 gauge wire is there both for the positive side of the starter.
I also have the 16 gauge black/gray striped wire that along with the 8 gauge ground cable to the block.
It is just this red to black wire which I do believe is supposed to be red all the way but someone just threw a black wire in there.
Is that 19 Red 1?
I would think 19 RED 1 would be the main battery cable as listed.
Last edited by Z06PSI; Nov 7, 2008 at 11:57 AM .
Nov 7, 2008 | 12:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Whoever made the repair did not use the correct color when the spliced. The color of the wire coming from the bundle is what I would focus on.
terminal S - purple wire
terminal B - Rust, grey, and red (from battery)
okay, that's not a repair that you made is it? That's the fusible link.....
the rust and grey wires both originate as red from the alternator, then connect to a fusible link, and change color to rust and grey.
Last edited by lucky131969; Nov 7, 2008 at 12:37 PM .
Nov 7, 2008 | 12:37 PM
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From: Dyer, IN
Nov 7, 2008 | 12:42 PM
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Chesapeake Va
That grey wire is a fuseable link. Pretty sure it's bone stock, and not a repair.
Nov 7, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Team Owner
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From: In the woods so F%^$ O&&
St. Jude Donor '17-'18-'19
Well I rewired(soldered, double heat shrinked, taped, loomed, and heat taped the entire harness from where it splits all the way to the connections. The Crank sensor wires were damaged in a 2" section and the oil level sensor was obliterated in a 6" section. All is redone and I am getting closer to firing this thing. Should be good tomorrow. Thanks Mike and Ed for your help.
The wire in question was a fusable factory cable as Ed said.
Nov 7, 2008 | 06:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,246
Likes: 1,092
From: Dyer, IN
Glad you got it worked out...I had you covered by the way....post#4
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Nov 8, 2008 | 10:10 AM
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
Where ya at wit dis? My dynos lonely.......
Nov 8, 2008 | 12:44 PM
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: In the woods so F%^$ O&&
St. Jude Donor '17-'18-'19
Well I am having running issues as it does start and hold idle but that is about it. Press gas and it backfires and shutsdown. Passenger side headers are really hot and the drivers side is cool to the touch almost. Fueling problem there.