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Almost done with rack removal on the way to repairing my spun crank pulley. Just need to unbolt the two bolts holding the rack to the crossmember and the p0wer steering cooler lines.
Question.... Can the rack come out (slid to passenger wheel well) with the power steering cooler?
The two lines are giving me a problem and the 18MM fittings are feeling like they will strip out even using an 18MM flair nut wrench.
Looks like this may work if I unbolt the ABS controller unit to allow for the lines to clear?
You dont need to take the rack all the way out. You can push it out far enough out of the way. dont take the ABS apart, just loosen the bolts and push it out of the way. Vettes with cooler lines I just also moved them out of my way.
You dont need to take the rack all the way out. You can push it out far enough out of the way. dont take the ABS apart, just loosen the bolts and push it out of the way. Vettes with cooler lines I just also moved them out of my way.
Good Luck with the 18mms, there a pain.
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You might want to go to DRM website and do the bushing upgrade. I forgot to do mine when I had mine loose. Supposedly takes some of the play out of the steering. But, I forgot, so I can't say for sure but who knows when the next time you will have it loose.
Just did this jobon a 98. You need to disconnect the cooler lines and remove the cooler. I can't remenber if I used a metric or standard wrench, but I believe it was a standard. Also need to remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and fans. Point the end of the rack out into the passenger wheel well and have someone guide it out 1/3 the way. Then lift the whole unit out of the engine bay over the driver fender twisting it to avoid hitting the radiator fins (pus some thin cardboard here) and pullleys.
You will have to remove the cooler. The rack doesn't need to come out though, you just just slide it out the passenger side and there will be plenty of room to move it around in there. I used a standard flare wrench for those nuts.
You will have to remove the cooler. The rack doesn't need to come out though, you just just slide it out the passenger side and there will be plenty of room to move it around in there. I used a standard flare wrench for those nuts.
Thought for a moment it may work but no they need to come out but the nuts will not cooperate. I suspect that when I had the H/C work done they used thread sealer and really tightened them because I can not get them to budge. Not sure what to try since they will just keep rounding off and then will need to be replaced. I might not have an alternative.
I was able to move the rack sufficient to remove the crank bolt and I
got the pulley off so progress made but these nuts are frustrating and causing a delay.
Well OK the cooler lines are off. Thanks to my son we were able to remove the line to the pump and then we moved the rack so we could access the second bolt from the front and I used a chisel and hammer to crack it loose.
Well OK the cooler lines are off. Thanks to my son we were able to remove the line to the pump and then we moved the rack so we could access the second bolt from the front and I used a chisel and hammer to crack it loose.
Now we can proceed.
savage1
I had to move the rack to get better access to the bolts. The flare wrench was no use to me, I ended up using some locking pliers to break them initially. That was the first time, the second time mine broke free more easily.
That step is the only thing keeping me from doing any more internal work on my car. What a pain that rack is...