Help w/ebcm problem
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From: CHICOPEE MA
Help w/ebcm problem
1st some history, I have a 01 C5, AT w/10k on it. I was getting the code for the r/f wheel sensor (c1233). I checked lt and rt sensors, wiring and swapped jumper wires, w/no luck. I sent out ebcm to be repaired to ATE and the found and repaired problems. I re-installed unit, cleared codes through command center.
Now as soon as i started going forward the lights come on the dash and after checking codes it now has code c1233h.
My question is do i need a scanner to cleard history code or is there any other way? Are there any aftermarket scanners that could clear a chassis/body code?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Now as soon as i started going forward the lights come on the dash and after checking codes it now has code c1233h.
My question is do i need a scanner to cleard history code or is there any other way? Are there any aftermarket scanners that could clear a chassis/body code?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
You can clear it using the reset button on the instrument panel. However, that isn't going to help. You still have a problem in the wheel speed sensor or the wiring from it to the EBCM or in the EBCM itself.
When you previously checked the sensor did you hook up a DVM to the sensor outputs and spin the wheel bearing to see if you got an AC signal of the proper level?
Bill
When you previously checked the sensor did you hook up a DVM to the sensor outputs and spin the wheel bearing to see if you got an AC signal of the proper level?
Bill
Tech Contributor
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Bill
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From: CHICOPEE MA
Thanks for replies.
Bill I did test sensor with a meter. I also tested the left sensor for comparison and they were equeal. Do you have a range for the ac volt levels. And will spinning it by hand be enough.
Is it likely in your experience that a hub could go bad on a 10k mile car that sees not rain?
Thanks again guys!
Bill I did test sensor with a meter. I also tested the left sensor for comparison and they were equeal. Do you have a range for the ac volt levels. And will spinning it by hand be enough.
Is it likely in your experience that a hub could go bad on a 10k mile car that sees not rain?
Thanks again guys!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,188
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From: New Smyrna Beach Florida
I've heard of the harness from the sensor going bad (fraying or such). One test is to switch the harnesses from one side to the other and see if the code moves with it. If it does, a replacement harness is in order. I've never done this, but I've seen a few threads on it. Try doing a search on C1233.
Thread Starter
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From: CHICOPEE MA
I've heard of the harness from the sensor going bad (fraying or such). One test is to switch the harnesses from one side to the other and see if the code moves with it. If it does, a replacement harness is in order. I've never done this, but I've seen a few threads on it. Try doing a search on C1233.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Thanks for replies.
Bill I did test sensor with a meter. I also tested the left sensor for comparison and they were equeal. Do you have a range for the ac volt levels. And will spinning it by hand be enough.
Is it likely in your experience that a hub could go bad on a 10k mile car that sees not rain?
Thanks again guys!
Bill I did test sensor with a meter. I also tested the left sensor for comparison and they were equeal. Do you have a range for the ac volt levels. And will spinning it by hand be enough.
Is it likely in your experience that a hub could go bad on a 10k mile car that sees not rain?
Thanks again guys!
Measure the resistance first and if it is within spec then measure the voltage. If either is out of tolerance the wheel bearing has to be replaced.
As for the miles it isn't likely the bearing is bad but it is possible.
Bill
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The EBTCM wheel speed sensor connectors are ALWAYS suspect. The female pins SUCK! The loose connection tension over time due to vibration/temp changes and plugging and un plugging the connector. When they have poor connection tension, the slightest vibration or flex will break connection long enough for the EBTCM to become unhappy.
RECOMMENDATION:
Go to NAPA, Advance or Autozone and see if they sell the replacement MALE pin for tht connector. Purchase a couple of them. I will attach pics of the single male pin later
BC
RECOMMENDATION:
Go to NAPA, Advance or Autozone and see if they sell the replacement MALE pin for tht connector. Purchase a couple of them. I will attach pics of the single male pin later
BC
Thread Starter
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From: CHICOPEE MA
Bill you say the female connectors are suspect, but then you say to replace the male end with a part from Autozone. Can you be more clear on that? Are you talking about the short jumper harness connections? I am just trying to get this thing figured out.
FYI---The light comes on instantly after clearing at about 7 mph.
Thanks
FYI---The light comes on instantly after clearing at about 7 mph.
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Stark County Ohio
Bill you say the female connectors are suspect, but then you say to replace the male end with a part from Autozone. Can you be more clear on that? Are you talking about the short jumper harness connections? I am just trying to get this thing figured out.
FYI---The light comes on instantly after clearing at about 7 mph.
Thanks
FYI---The light comes on instantly after clearing at about 7 mph.
Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Bill you say the female connectors are suspect, but then you say to replace the male end with a part from Autozone. Can you be more clear on that? Are you talking about the short jumper harness connections? I am just trying to get this thing figured out.
FYI---The light comes on instantly after clearing at about 7 mph.
Thanks
FYI---The light comes on instantly after clearing at about 7 mph.
Thanks
Heres the male pin that I use to test mine:
If the EBTCM fails at 7 MPH every time,, thats a problem with the microprocessor inside the EBTCM and theres NO way anyone will be able to fix that issue short of obtaining a complete new EBTCM. My 02 Z EBTCM failed repeatably at 42 mph. I just repaired one that failed at 11 mph.
As long as you stay under that MPH threshold, it will work fine. Right???
BC
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From: CHICOPEE MA
ok, i understand now about using just a pin to check female side.
Bill, Yes the lights always come on at same speed. I had my ebcm repaired by AUTOECU, and they said they found problems but all were fixed. You said you just repaired one that was coming on at 11mph. Do you mean you repaired existing unit or did you replace it? I really don't want to drop a grand if I don't have to, but it might be going that way.
Bill, Yes the lights always come on at same speed. I had my ebcm repaired by AUTOECU, and they said they found problems but all were fixed. You said you just repaired one that was coming on at 11mph. Do you mean you repaired existing unit or did you replace it? I really don't want to drop a grand if I don't have to, but it might be going that way.
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
$1000.00
No way! Get one from Gene Culley for a LOT LOT less and install it your self! If so easy,,even a cave man can do it! Six screws and two connectors.
Yea the ABS Fixer companies make plenty of cash on repairing the modules BUT,,,I do NOT believe that they can fully test them. The problem that your having has NEW MODULE written all over it. Thats how I repaired my friends car. I have a spare EBTCM that we bolted in. Fixed it right up.
In fact the module that he replaced the original suspected bad OEM module with was a module from ABS Fixer. The ABS Fixer Module turned out to be the wrong series module and it had the 11 MPH error issue. We changed his module out with my spare for testing in 15 mins. He called Brandon and worked something out. He got another module to replace the ABS Fixer module. I suggest that you do the same. They warranty that stuff or at least that what they promote. If they don't honor it, we need to know so we can do business with the most repeatable companies.
EBTCM Module and BPMV together:
EBTCM separated from the BPMV:
EBTCM
Its a plug and play module.
Bill
No way! Get one from Gene Culley for a LOT LOT less and install it your self! If so easy,,even a cave man can do it! Six screws and two connectors.Yea the ABS Fixer companies make plenty of cash on repairing the modules BUT,,,I do NOT believe that they can fully test them. The problem that your having has NEW MODULE written all over it. Thats how I repaired my friends car. I have a spare EBTCM that we bolted in. Fixed it right up.
In fact the module that he replaced the original suspected bad OEM module with was a module from ABS Fixer. The ABS Fixer Module turned out to be the wrong series module and it had the 11 MPH error issue. We changed his module out with my spare for testing in 15 mins. He called Brandon and worked something out. He got another module to replace the ABS Fixer module. I suggest that you do the same. They warranty that stuff or at least that what they promote. If they don't honor it, we need to know so we can do business with the most repeatable companies.
EBTCM Module and BPMV together:
EBTCM separated from the BPMV:
EBTCM
Its a plug and play module.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 2, 2008 at 10:18 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: CHICOPEE MA
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Boulder Creek CA
I don't know what codes I had since I took it to the dealer. They said it had a signal in and power in but was not sending anything out. I searched on ebay for an hour or two and found a brand new one shippped to my door for $707. The supplier was thepartsladi. He has a good rep and I would buy from him again. I would not buy from ABS fixer again though, still have not been refunded the money they said they would and that was close to two months ago. I will have to dispute the charges to Visa.
