Clutch/Ignition Safety Switch 2000
I've noticed in recent months that when I depress the clutch pedal to start the engine, I get a click as tho the battery is low. But the battery is new and I keep it on a charger...so it didn't make sense. I now know that if I let up on the pedal and re-engage, it catches and starts right up.
Suggestions?
I've noticed in recent months that when I depress the clutch pedal to start the engine, I get a click as tho the battery is low. But the battery is new and I keep it on a charger...so it didn't make sense. I now know that if I let up on the pedal and re-engage, it catches and starts right up.
Suggestions?








You can disassemble, clean and reassemble that switch. Been there done that. Mine was very corroded. You need to use a feeler gage to release the catch that holds it in.
Like LUCKY stated measure the switch resistance. When you press and release it it should read pretty close to ZERO ohms closed and infinite released.
Another way to check it; Gain access to the passengers foot well, remove the toe board and the dash close out panel. The TDR is on the fire wall above the BCM:

When you place the ignition switch to CRANK and you press and release the clutch safety switch, that relay will actuate (CLICK)
IF,,,the LOW current side of the relay is working when you press and release the switch, you need to check the HIGH current side. The RED wire has a CONSTANT 12VDC 60 amps in it. When the relay CLOSES, there should be the same 12 VDC on the PURPLE WIRE!
The C5 starter solenoids are WELL KNOWN for failing. They can be found for $40+ at most starter repair shops. You can easily change it your self. Beats the cost of a new starter in tough times.
Bill
This is where the diagram is helpful...
And so where is the clutch pedal start switch located and did we conclude it is not adjustable?





Im going to have to get real basic. The Diagnostic Information Console (DIC) is a system inside the IPC that uses a serial data buss to connect together all of the MODULES ( microprocessors ) via a STARR Buss The BCM and the PCM are the main modules but there are also the OBDII port, RFA, HVAC, IPC, SDM, LDCM, RDCM & SCM. All of those modules. things are interconnected together and communicate.Lots of things are connected to these modules but that doesnt necessarilay mean that if they fail to function correctly, they will set a DTC.
The CLUTCH SAFETY switch is in the drivers FOOT WELL on the firewall and the clutch peddel contacts it when you depress the clutch all the way to the floor. It looks like a bumper but its a switch. It clips to a small bracket that is RIVITED to the fire wall. ei,,,NON Adjustable
If the clutch switch is functioning CORRECTLY,,,when you place the ignition switch to CRANK/START & DEPRESS THE CLUTCH to the floor,, you should have completed ALL the interlocks that allow TDR to actuate. When the TDR actuates, it CLICKS. If you push and release the clutch peddel, each time you press it to the floor, the TDR (in the passengers foot well will click. If you listen carefully from the drivers seat, you can hear it click indicating that it is at least being actuated.
There are TWO relays above the BCM (Big Silver BOX)The TDR is the relay to the LEFT that has the 10ga PURPLE & RED wires and the 16ga Yellow and Yellow/black
wires. FOUR WIRES
When the TDR is actuated the RED wire (which is 12VDC HOT at ALL )TIMES) gets connected via high current relay contacts to the PURPLE wire which,,,,,,,,connects to the starter SOLENOID and that solenoid closes some really high current contacts that my friend and causes the starter to run..
Whew
If you get intermittant starter operation, you have something in that circuit that isnt functioning each time. I can guess and have you start replacing stuff one at a time (Thats called "easter egging in the Navy) in which you wallet will NOT be happy. Or,,,you can use some basic troubleshooting skills and zoom in on the BAD component. Having been there, done that and fixed the same issue, my guess would be a bad solenoid or loose /dirty wires on the solenoid. I checked all the stuff as recommended above and found that i had to replace the solenoid. ($40+ bucks)
Hope this explains it better.
BC
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


Im going to have to get real basic. The Diagnostic Information Console (DIC) is a system inside the IPC that uses a serial data buss to connect together all of the MODULES ( microprocessors ) via a STARR Buss The BCM and the PCM are the main modules but there are also the OBDII port, RFA, HVAC, IPC, SDM, LDCM, RDCM & SCM. All of those modules. things are interconnected together and communicate.Lots of things are connected to these modules but that doesnt necessarilay mean that if they fail to function correctly, they will set a DTC.
The CLUTCH SAFETY switch is in the drivers FOOT WELL on the firewall and the clutch peddel contacts it when you depress the clutch all the way to the floor. It looks like a bumper but its a switch. It clips to a small bracket that is RIVITED to the fire wall. ei,,,NON Adjustable
If the clutch switch is functioning CORRECTLY,,,when you place the ignition switch to CRANK/START & DEPRESS THE CLUTCH to the floor,, you should have completed ALL the interlocks that allow TDR to actuate. When the TDR actuates, it CLICKS. If you push and release the clutch peddel, each time you press it to the floor, the TDR (in the passengers foot well will click. If you listen carefully from the drivers seat, you can hear it click indicating that it is at least being actuated.
There are TWO relays above the BCM (Big Silver BOX)The TDR is the relay to the LEFT that has the 10ga PURPLE & RED wires and the 16ga Yellow and Yellow/black
wires. FOUR WIRES
When the TDR is actuated the RED wire (which is 12VDC HOT at ALL )TIMES) gets connected via high current relay contacts to the PURPLE wire which,,,,,,,,connects to the starter SOLENOID and that solenoid closes some really high current contacts that my friend and causes the starter to run..
Whew
If you get intermittant starter operation, you have something in that circuit that isnt functioning each time. I can guess and have you start replacing stuff one at a time (Thats called "easter egging in the Navy) in which you wallet will NOT be happy. Or,,,you can use some basic troubleshooting skills and zoom in on the BAD component. Having been there, done that and fixed the same issue, my guess would be a bad solenoid or loose /dirty wires on the solenoid. I checked all the stuff as recommended above and found that i had to replace the solenoid. ($40+ bucks)
Hope this explains it better.
BC
Im going to have to get real basic. The Diagnostic Information Console (DIC) is a system inside the IPC that uses a serial data buss to connect together all of the MODULES ( microprocessors ) via a STARR Buss The BCM and the PCM are the main modules but there are also the OBDII port, RFA, HVAC, IPC, SDM, LDCM, RDCM & SCM. All of those modules. things are interconnected together and communicate.Lots of things are connected to these modules but that doesnt necessarilay mean that if they fail to function correctly, they will set a DTC.
The CLUTCH SAFETY switch is in the drivers FOOT WELL on the firewall and the clutch peddel contacts it when you depress the clutch all the way to the floor. It looks like a bumper but its a switch. It clips to a small bracket that is RIVITED to the fire wall. ei,,,NON Adjustable
If the clutch switch is functioning CORRECTLY,,,when you place the ignition switch to CRANK/START & DEPRESS THE CLUTCH to the floor,, you should have completed ALL the interlocks that allow TDR to actuate. When the TDR actuates, it CLICKS. If you push and release the clutch peddel, each time you press it to the floor, the TDR (in the passengers foot well will click. If you listen carefully from the drivers seat, you can hear it click indicating that it is at least being actuated.
There are TWO relays above the BCM (Big Silver BOX)The TDR is the relay to the LEFT that has the 10ga PURPLE & RED wires and the 16ga Yellow and Yellow/black
wires. FOUR WIRES
When the TDR is actuated the RED wire (which is 12VDC HOT at ALL )TIMES) gets connected via high current relay contacts to the PURPLE wire which,,,,,,,,connects to the starter SOLENOID and that solenoid closes some really high current contacts that my friend and causes the starter to run..
Whew
If you get intermittant starter operation, you have something in that circuit that isnt functioning each time. I can guess and have you start replacing stuff one at a time (Thats called "easter egging in the Navy) in which you wallet will NOT be happy. Or,,,you can use some basic troubleshooting skills and zoom in on the BAD component. Having been there, done that and fixed the same issue, my guess would be a bad solenoid or loose /dirty wires on the solenoid. I checked all the stuff as recommended above and found that i had to replace the solenoid. ($40+ bucks)
Hope this explains it better.
BC










