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Not good!
Problem still exists! G101 and G102 has nothing to do with he fuel pump relay. I have another problem! I think my #35 relay contacts in the fuse box has dropped further not allowing good contact on the relay!
The only way it still runs is if I physically put a jumper wire between pins 87 and 30 on the relay. Back to the drawing board.
okay, Im done with this. Im gonna need a tow to someone local. The DIC doesn't show any codes. Im getting fuel and spark. Lucky tried to help me, but Im limited now with the little skills I have. I am getting power to the fuel pump relay though. I might have damaged the fuse block effing with the fuel pump relay so much. Im not worthy of this car.
I will update as soon as I find someone I can trust around the ATL. Thanks again for evreyone chiming in to help me.
okay, Im done with this. Im gonna need a tow to someone local. The DIC doesn't show any codes. Im getting fuel and spark. Lucky tried to help me, but Im limited now with the little skills I have. I am getting power to the fuel pump relay though. I might have damaged the fuse block effing with the fuel pump relay so much. Im not worthy of this car.
I will update as soon as I find someone I can trust around the ATL. Thanks again for evreyone chiming in to help me.
Sorry your getting frustrated. Like we discussed:
You know when you jump the fuel pump relay socket from 30 to 87, that the car runs fine. It's hard to check the rest without a good volt meter. The other two contacts are for the relay power (which is supplied by the PCM) and the other a ground. If you are going to take this somewhere, they should be able to trouble shoot this quickly if you explain exactly where you're at. If you are certain that the PCM is providing 12 volts to the relay, then all that's left is the relay ground.
im getting voltage at the 3 contacts on the relay and the 4th one is 0 volts which Im assuming is the ground. When 87+30 is jumped it still cuts off. Now I think I may have issues with the fuel pump again. Everytime I turn the key the pump doesn't always prime!
I'm sure you know this, but if you turn the key to the on position the pump should run for approx 3 seconds and then cut off and it should do this everytime you turn the key on.
Are you saying that if you turn the key on sometimes the pump runs and sometimes it doesn't?
I'm sure you know this, but if you turn the key to the on position the pump should run for approx 3 seconds and then cut off and it should do this everytime you turn the key on.
Are you saying that if you turn the key on sometimes the pump runs and sometimes it doesn't?
yes, sometimes it primes and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't prime it most likely won't fire up.
yes, sometimes it primes and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't prime it most likely won't fire up.
What really concerns me about this going in a different direction, is that you still don't know what the resistance to ground for the fuel pump relay is. I suppose it's your car and time, but you have to identify all the variables so you know what the next step is. Just identifying one as "0 volts" is not sufficient.
What really concerns me about this going in a different direction, is that you still don't know what the resistance to ground for the fuel pump relay is. I suppose it's your car and time, but you have to identify all the variables so you know what the next step is. Just identifying one as "0 volts" is not sufficient.
I'll check the resistance to ground this evening.
C5vetteski, still trying to resolve. Im sure I'll find something this evening.
Last edited by 92mr2turbo; Dec 15, 2008 at 02:18 PM.
I measured the resistance with the relay still connected while the car was running and showed between 70-122 ohms. I checked the upper right contact facing the passenger side fender. I think this is contact point 86. It cranked up again after stalling, I heard the pump prime, but only once then stalled again. I dont hear the fuel pump priming again. If I go try it again it will probably start. Now Im seeing codes:
BO RFA 1096H,1064H,1016H. I only have 1 fob that doesnt work. I tried programming it, but probably need a new one. It works the first few minutes then seems to loose its memory. I did this with a new battery.
Lucky, thanks for being patient with me!
Last edited by 92mr2turbo; Dec 15, 2008 at 06:28 PM.
I measured the resistance with the relay still connected while the car was running and showed between 70-122 ohms.
Hmmmm.....that is not physically possible to measure the resistance at the relay socket with it connected(plugged in). If you meant you had the socket jumpered at 30 and 87, and measure the ground, thats ok. You need not have the engine running to check the relay ground.
If you measured the fuel pump relay ground to be 70 and 122 ohms, you've got a problem. That ground should be damn near zero ohms(realistically, ~ .3 ohms)
Hmmmm.....that is not physically possible to measure the resistance at the relay socket with it connected(plugged in). If you meant you had the socket jumpered at 30 and 87, and measure the ground, thats ok. You need not have the engine running to check the relay ground.
If you measured the fuel pump relay ground to be 70 and 122 ohms, you've got a problem. That ground should be damn near zero ohms(realistically, ~ .3 ohms)
it was .2 ohms. I have the relay kinda modified now since the contacts in the fuse block are a little recessed now. I was able to stick a wire in between the relay and the contacts to get a reading with it still plugged in. Im gonna order a new pump tonight or tomorrow.
it was .2 ohms. I have the relay kinda modified now since the contacts in the fuse block are a little recessed now. I was able to stick a wire in between the relay and the contacts to get a reading with it still plugged in. Im gonna order a new pump tonight or tomorrow.
Not soo fast. Need to check power and ground at the sending unit connector first.