Serpentine belt question
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 1
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '07
I am available next Wednesday Dec 31 near the Orlando airport, exit 12 off 528, Goldenrod. You might have to order the Gaterback belts. You bring the belts and I will bring the tools. Steve 321-987-7741
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
I just looked at my factory Z06 belts and it came with
6PK2030 and 4PK1073 belts.
Gatorback makes a 4060798 (6PK2025) and a 4060802 (6PK2035)
I think I would go with the belt that is slightly longer rather than shorter.
Same on the other belt.
Gatorbacks are 4040420 (4PK1065) and 4040425 (4PK1080).
So you can go 8mm under or 7mm over.
Note, the length is coded in the part number. ]
2030 is the length in mm, or about 79.9 inches.
1073 is about 1073/25.4 = 42.2 inches.
6PK2030 and 4PK1073 belts.
Gatorback makes a 4060798 (6PK2025) and a 4060802 (6PK2035)
I think I would go with the belt that is slightly longer rather than shorter.
Same on the other belt.
Gatorbacks are 4040420 (4PK1065) and 4040425 (4PK1080).
So you can go 8mm under or 7mm over.
Note, the length is coded in the part number. ]
2030 is the length in mm, or about 79.9 inches.
1073 is about 1073/25.4 = 42.2 inches.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
What I have run into on other cars is that if you go smaller, you may not be able to get the belt on. Whereas if you go slightly larger, the belt tensioner will still be within working range.
In this case, you may be able to use the smaller belt. Either way, your are only talking about 5mm to 7mm, or .2 to .3 inches difference.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 15,323
Likes: 2,077
From: Guelph, Ontario
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Navarre Florida
Guys,
I just replaced both serpentine belts in my 98 C5 mid Dec. I was pulling out of the garage last night and noticed a whine coming from the engine compartment. On close inspection, I noticed the Crank Shaft pulley is out of allignment with the rest of the pulleys. I called the dealer and they said this is a known issue with the C5s and the new CS pulley is 279 plus tax. It looks to me that the main belt CS pulley has slid back about a quarter inch and the belt is riding on the front of the crank shaft pulley. Does anyone have any suggestions? I am mechanically inclined and have tools. Is this something a one man own garage mechanic can do alone? I do not want to give anymore money to the dealership.
I just replaced both serpentine belts in my 98 C5 mid Dec. I was pulling out of the garage last night and noticed a whine coming from the engine compartment. On close inspection, I noticed the Crank Shaft pulley is out of allignment with the rest of the pulleys. I called the dealer and they said this is a known issue with the C5s and the new CS pulley is 279 plus tax. It looks to me that the main belt CS pulley has slid back about a quarter inch and the belt is riding on the front of the crank shaft pulley. Does anyone have any suggestions? I am mechanically inclined and have tools. Is this something a one man own garage mechanic can do alone? I do not want to give anymore money to the dealership.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
Cycleboy, yes, this is a pretty common issue. Replacing the front pulley/balancer is not a trivial task; but many of us have done it in the garage with jackstands and the normal assortment of tools. You must pull the steering rack, etc, etc. Plan on 5-6 hours of fun for a novice.
Imagine what the dealer will want??????
By the time you get the pulley off, you are half way to a cam install (hint, hint). I would suggest you install an underdrive (smaller pulley). They are priced about $250 from aSD, Powerbond, SLP, etc.
Do a search here, tons of info and photos.
DG
Imagine what the dealer will want??????
By the time you get the pulley off, you are half way to a cam install (hint, hint). I would suggest you install an underdrive (smaller pulley). They are priced about $250 from aSD, Powerbond, SLP, etc.
Do a search here, tons of info and photos.
DG
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 1
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '07
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Cycleboy, yes, this is a pretty common issue. Replacing the front pulley/balancer is not a trivial task; but many of us have done it in the garage with jackstands and the normal assortment of tools. You must pull the steering rack, etc, etc. Plan on 5-6 hours of fun for a novice.
Imagine what the dealer will want??????
By the time you get the pulley off, you are half way to a cam install (hint, hint). I would suggest you install an underdrive (smaller pulley). They are priced about $250 from aSD, Powerbond, SLP, etc.
Do a search here, tons of info and photos.
DG
Imagine what the dealer will want??????
By the time you get the pulley off, you are half way to a cam install (hint, hint). I would suggest you install an underdrive (smaller pulley). They are priced about $250 from aSD, Powerbond, SLP, etc.
Do a search here, tons of info and photos.
DG
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 21
From: Roswell GA
Belt info
But I strongly second the thought that this is a DIY project. I got quots of $170 with no-name belts. Went to O'Reilly and got:
Gates Micro-V AT K040420 & K060798 for $48.98 + tax They fit perfect.
Took maybe 15 minutes - it always takes longer the first time. The service manual says use a breaker bar and you think that you are going to have to pull/push really hard. Not the case - one hand was plenty of pressure. I took off the belt at the alternator pully first and put it back last. On the A/C used the small middle pully as the on/off point.
Note old belts were 11 years and 30K old - they looked brand new - they do not make belts like they used to - they are way better and last way longer. Anyway I feel like I am good for another 10Y30K easy. Also did all the hoses - replaced with the silicone set - another technology step up and just a better product for longer lasting safety.
Last edited by KingTut; Jan 27, 2012 at 09:36 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
There is a lot of good information that gets lost when you start a new thread - and some of the best answers might get lost.
But I strongly second the thought that this is a DIY project. I got quots of $170 with no-name belts. Went to O'Reilly and got:
Gates Micro-V AT K040420 & K060798 for $48.98 + tax They fit perfect.
Took maybe 15 minutes - it always takes longer the first time. The service manual says use a breaker bar and you think that you are going to have to pull/push really hard. Not the case - one hand was plenty of pressure. I took off the belt at the alternator pully first and put it back last. On the A/C used the small middle pully as the on/off point.
Note old belts were 11 years and 30K old - they looked brand new - they do not make belts like they used to - they are way better and last way longer. Anyway I feel like I am good for another 10Y30K easy. Also did all the hoses - replaced with the silicone set - another technology step up and just a better product for longer lasting safety.
But I strongly second the thought that this is a DIY project. I got quots of $170 with no-name belts. Went to O'Reilly and got:
Gates Micro-V AT K040420 & K060798 for $48.98 + tax They fit perfect.
Took maybe 15 minutes - it always takes longer the first time. The service manual says use a breaker bar and you think that you are going to have to pull/push really hard. Not the case - one hand was plenty of pressure. I took off the belt at the alternator pully first and put it back last. On the A/C used the small middle pully as the on/off point.
Note old belts were 11 years and 30K old - they looked brand new - they do not make belts like they used to - they are way better and last way longer. Anyway I feel like I am good for another 10Y30K easy. Also did all the hoses - replaced with the silicone set - another technology step up and just a better product for longer lasting safety.
FWIW; I find it easiest to slip the drive belt off of the large smooth water pump pulley and to slip it over that pulley last when installing the new one on the upper drive belt system.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I have to agree with the other posts that this is a DIY job. It is probably only 10 or 15 minutes if you have access to ramps or can get it in the air a little for the AC belt from the bottom.
I did mine when I changed the harmonic balancer. There is nothing complicated about changing the belt. It is just a standard tensioner. Use the wrench/breaker and move it to release tension and the belt pulls off. It goes on the same way.
Find the belts you want (a lot of people like the gatorbacks) and DIY. You will then know you have the good belts and save a bunch of money.
Good luck.
I did mine when I changed the harmonic balancer. There is nothing complicated about changing the belt. It is just a standard tensioner. Use the wrench/breaker and move it to release tension and the belt pulls off. It goes on the same way.
Find the belts you want (a lot of people like the gatorbacks) and DIY. You will then know you have the good belts and save a bunch of money.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 21
From: Roswell GA
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