Hey Guys,

So recently my 97 has been having some issues. When I start the car it revs up like normal and as it comes down to idle it shuts off it does this at least 5 times and then I try to get out unlock the car again get back in and it will start. It is very strange. on top o that it is having some type of electrical issue, I turn the lights on and they don't pop up or turn on i have to toggle the switch a couple times then they come on. Some times when Im driving and listening to music it will have a random power surge and flicker the lights in the car very weird. Any one know what this could be????

 

Look at the sticky up top for some info. It sounds like a grounding issue. I know my battery post were in bad shape.

 

Well,,,,,,,,there are "most likely" two or three seperate issues here.

First things first "What DTCs are being displayed in the DIC?" You need to read and post your DTCs. If there are a LOT of them, write down what is being displayed and clear ALL of the DTCs. Then take the car for a drive and see what recient DTCs come back. Post that set od DTCs and make sure that you include the C and or H letters at the end of the code. Heres a detailed procedure on how to read your own codes:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.



These are the absolute best C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!!



http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html <http://www.corvettedoctor.com/Code_Main.html>

http://www.corvettedoctor.com/index.html





Go to “technical data base” and then to “Corvette ECM Computer Codes”. Then select your year car. Read the instructions and then scroll down to the "READ MORE" window to view the code definitions.\



Here is another very good site:



http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

The head light issue is most likely the multifunction switch on your steering column. This is a fairly common issue and easily repaired for FREE!

Look in the advanced search function for "multifunction swirch repair" and the post will be available. Removing and self repairing the switch is fairly easy.

As for the stalling issue, make SURE the intake tract between the MAF and the Throttle Body is 100% sealed. Also make sure that the PCV line (passengers side of the engine and manifold is not dry rotted and perferated. You will need to follow 100% of the line to maks sure that it is not damaged. It connects to the crankcase on the drivers side at the rear of the head and connects to the engine at the passengers side of the TB/Manifold.

Clean the MAF wires with MAF cleaner and clean the Throttle Body / Throttle blade with carb cleaner..

I agree with Navy,,, Check the grounds (see my IMPORTANT ELECTRICAL INFO ) stickey and make sure that the wires on the battery & the starter solenoid are CLEAN and TIGHT also.

Hope this gets you started.

Bill C

 

Thanks alot for the help guys! Now a need a day off to do all this troubleshooting!!!!! lol