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So in trying to solve my "too hot" trans temps during the summer, I added a B & M Transmission cooler to my 99 A4. Worked like a charm, but now with these colder temps in the northeast, it's a chore to get the transmission up to 120 some days.....highest temp I've seen since the ambients dropped below 70 is 140 on the trans. So my question is.......how cold is TOO COLD for the transmission to be running? TIA!!
So in trying to solve my "too hot" trans temps during the summer, I added a B & M Transmission cooler to my 99 A4. Worked like a charm, but now with these colder temps in the northeast, it's a chore to get the transmission up to 120 some days.....highest temp I've seen since the ambients dropped below 70 is 140 on the trans. So my question is.......how cold is TOO COLD for the transmission to be running? TIA!!
Just curious....what cold weather transmission temps did you observe before installing the trans cooler?
Just curious....what cold weather transmission temps did you observe before installing the trans cooler?
Hard to say.......because the last time I ran the car in the cold it was stock.......so I never really took note of trans temps. I first started noticing "high" temps on the track (by high I mean close to 240 - enough to end my sessions early). This past summer, I added 215 heads, big cam, fast 90 and headers with 12:1 compression so additional cooling was necessary.
I honestly never took note before heat started becoming an issue.
Last edited by TryNkeepUp; Dec 30, 2008 at 12:31 PM.
How did you plumb in the 2nd cooler? Best practise is to run through the B&M 1st, then from the exit of it to the inlet of the one in the radiator. Acts as kind of a re-warmer in cold weather.
How did you plumb in the 2nd cooler? Best practise is to run through the B&M 1st, then from the exit of it to the inlet of the one in the radiator. Acts as kind of a re-warmer in cold weather.
I hear what you're saying......but I'm running a stock radiator so nothing is being put through there.......biggest reason being that it caused "overheating" in the summer (but that's a whole separate thread).....so replumbing the system for the winter isn't feasible.......better to just cover up the cooler.
Just curious if that's even necessary.......but thanks for the suggestion.
You dont need to worry about the cold temp but start thinking about tranny rebuild next year. High temps like 240 and the power you are making will cause that A4 to need a spa treatment Better to know it is coming and be prepared. Watching the A4 temps is good to do. Hot(+220) is not good. When did you last change the A4 fluid ? How many miles and burnouts on the trans..Best of Luck
You dont need to worry about the cold temp but start thinking about tranny rebuild next year. High temps like 240 and the power you are making will cause that A4 to need a spa treatment Better to know it is coming and be prepared. Watching the A4 temps is good to do. Hot(+220) is not good. When did you last change the A4 fluid ? How many miles and burnouts on the trans..Best of Luck
I know. I had the trans rebuilt about two years ago, but the good news is that once I noticed the high temps, I immediately changed the trans fluid and took it easy on the track - no 1/4 mile for me - I road race (yeah I know, car was MADE for 1/4 mile, but nothing beats the S curves at 120+). Not long after, I had all the power goodies added in and heat once again became a factor, not only in the trans, but the oil and coolant as well.......long story short......the radiator blew its guts and the trans fluid drained out all on its own for the 2nd time so she got her 2nd trans fluid flush .......that's where all the independent cooling systems came in. The car hasn't seen temps over 200 since and usually run 165-180 on the hottest days of the summer.......highest track temp I've seen on the trans was like 210 But now in the winter the trans seems to be running TOO cool.......can damage happen if I run it under say 160?
It's grapes and grapefruit, but I have a transmission temperature gauge on my MH (V10 Ford and 4 speed auto). It has a good size cooler but it's also over 25,000 lbs GCVW. Temps get to 200-210 climbing the Rockies, but run as low as 140 on the flat interstate.
You're probably OK with temps under 160, but covering (or partially covering) the transmission oil cooler wouldn't be a bad idea. Less issues with condensed water in the fluid that way. Even though my MH runs under 150 at times, most days it will get to 180-190 and keep condensation to a minimum.
It's grapes and grapefruit, but I have a transmission temperature gauge on my MH (V10 Ford and 4 speed auto). It has a good size cooler but it's also over 25,000 lbs GCVW. Temps get to 200-210 climbing the Rockies, but run as low as 140 on the flat interstate.
You're probably OK with temps under 160, but covering (or partially covering) the transmission oil cooler wouldn't be a bad idea. Less issues with condensed water in the fluid that way. Even though my MH runs under 150 at times, most days it will get to 180-190 and keep condensation to a minimum.
THANK YOU!!!!!! Although I'd heard it could cause "damage".......what KIND of damage was always unclear. I made it to a whopping 133 on my way home today but I'm so reluctant to really step into it and drive it like you should with such low temps.
Well either I'm getting dirty or I'll be knocking on Vette Doctors door at some point this week
For what it's worth, I've seen 120-140 tranny temps this winter, I also have a tranny cooler mounted up front. Don't forget, transmission fluid is designed to work in temperatures as low as -5 degrees and still keep it's viscosity. The viscosity of the fluid or lack thereof is what can kill the tranny, since at 230+, the oil begins to breakdown, you risk damaging your tranny. On the other end of the spectrum, although you're not at your sweetspot, tranny temps of 130 shouldn't do any prolonged damage as long as you don't floor it as soon as you leave the driveway.
The 4L60E trannies were tested in subzero temps by GM for prolonged periods of time. They were designed to handle cold temps.
For what it's worth, I've seen 120-140 tranny temps this winter, I also have a tranny cooler mounted up front. Don't forget, transmission fluid is designed to work in temperatures as low as -5 degrees and still keep it's viscosity. The viscosity of the fluid or lack thereof is what can kill the tranny, since at 230+, the oil begins to breakdown, you risk damaging your tranny. On the other end of the spectrum, although you're not at your sweetspot, tranny temps of 130 shouldn't do any prolonged damage as long as you don't floor it as soon as you leave the driveway.
The 4L60E trannies were tested in subzero temps by GM for prolonged periods of time. They were designed to handle cold temps.
OBJECTIVE:
Demonstrate that AMSOIL Synthetic Universal ATF has excellent low temperature properties, including low Brookfield Viscosity and pour point, and provides higher automatic transmission efficiencies at low temperatures than conventional automatic transmission fluid.
ISSUE:
The use of conventional automatic transmission fluid at low temperatures means slow transmission shifting, sluggish operation and frustration.
TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
Automatic transmission fluid is a vital component in an automatic transmission. Fiber plates contact metal plates, bearings contact bearing races, gears contact gears and automatic transmission fluid comes in contact and lubricates them all. Transmission fluid viscosity has a tremendous effect on the mechanical efficiency of an automatic transmission. During transfer of power in the transmission, over 40 percent of total energy losses are due to the transmission pumping automatic transmission fluid to the working components of the transmission. Tests (Reference 1) relating to torque losses associated with pumping automatic transmission fluid at different temperatures have shown that a temperature increase of 150°F can increase the mechanical efficiency of an automatic transmission by as much as 37.5 percent. This means increases in mechanical efficiencies are directly caused by thinner oil (lower viscosity). When ambient temperatures drop, the fluid gets thicker and transmission efficiencies decrease, greatly reducing effective useful power and efficiency of the transmission.
This efficiency decrease in cold temperatures is often referred to as sluggish operation, and it demands more energy from the engine to actuate all the parts that come into contact with the automatic transmission fluid. Synthetic oils that are not affected by temperature reductions as much as conventional oils have better low temperature pumpability and mechanical efficiency. Improved efficiency provides better fuel economy.
AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid has a lower pour point and is pumpable at much lower temperatures than conventional automatic transmission fluids, as demonstrated by the Brookfield Viscosity Test. AMSOIL Synthetic Universal ATF is capable of providing greater transmission efficiencies and better fuel economy at low temperatures than conventional automatic transmission fluids.
RECOMMENDATION:
In order to obtain maximum cold temperature benefits, thoroughly drain and flush conventional automatic transmission fluid from the transmission and replace with AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
Last edited by Wicked Weasel; Dec 30, 2008 at 10:10 PM.
the best bet is that your tranny temps should be around your normal operating engine temps.
here is more info from Amsoil
Awesome! I agree ideally they should be.......but it sounds like as long as its synthetic trans fluid and I'm not beating the snot out of the car - no real damage can occur.......just sluggishness and the engine compensating. Bottom line.......either cover up the cooler or plan on taking it easy when it's below 150. Thanks Bob.....you're the best
Originally Posted by GeorgeZNJ
I don't have any technical advice to offer, buy I'll come over and warm you up anytime Deb.
Buckle up George, I'm ALWAYS cold so I need constant warming up
FYI, I have the same problem as you have, although I live and drive my vette in the Michigan winter - which means regularly 15 degrees and colder. I also installed a second cooler in the summer and plumbed it independent of the original radiator loop.
In this cold weather I couldn't get my trans temp up to 60 deg. !!!
My solution was to install an oil thermostat like this http://perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page14.html
It opens/closes at 180 deg. and will flow through the original radiator loop when open (cold). After the ATF heats up, the thermostat closes and runs the ATF ONLY through the auxilliary cooler.
This way I get the best of both worlds - enough heat in the winter and enough cooling in the summer.