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Another stuck window thread

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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #1  
6SPDSebringSilverLS1's Avatar
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Default Another stuck window thread

Okay, before anyone tries to quickly dispatch me to the "search" function, I have already been there and read them all. This situation may be unique. Please listen to my tale before it rains again.

Tonight I AUTO lowered the drivers window. It went down no problem. When I press the window up button it went up about an inch and stopped. There is clicking with repeated "up" button pressing but no further "up" movment. Press the "down" button the window goes down. I have beaten and banged door handles and door skins while pressing the window button to no avail. Not a good look for a car that dosen't have it's plates yet. Comments anyone?
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 03:24 AM
  #2  
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After digging a little deeper I am going to try 2 approaches. Remove the door panel and the window motor then rotate its main gear to a position with undamaged threads. Or just replace the motor all together.

I am going to skip the relay theory as my symptoms don't sound electrical.

What I would like to know is, Can the window motor be access when the interior panel is removed alone or is additional dismantling required. I can't tell from the photos I seen so far.
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 04:32 AM
  #3  
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Not a common item but I've had the issue on my sons Camaro

When the motor starts to get old theres a thermal cut out which trips. This causes intermittent operation - move stop, wait, move, stop ......... I plan to replace the motor on the Camaro to fix it.

On the Vette you need to take off the door panel, remove the water deflector, Remove the door speaker, remove the window. At that point you can get at the regulator

Document ID# 657154
2002 Chevrolet Corvette
Window Regulator Replacement
Removal Procedure

Caution

Disconnect the power window switch when working inside the driver's door. When operated, the Express Down Feature allows the door window to drop very quickly, without stopping, which could cause personal injury.

Important

The regulator and the motor are serviced as an assembly.


1. Remove the door trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Door .

2. Remove the water deflector.
.
3. Remove the radio speaker assembly from the door.
1. Disconnect the electrical/audio connector.
2. Remove the speaker retaining screws.

4. Remove the plugs from the window clamp sight access holes.

5. Remove the door window. Refer to Window Replacement - Door .

6. Disconnect the regulator motor electrical connector.

7. Remove the front plug from under the bottom of the door.

8. Mark the location of the regulator to aid in reassembly.
9. Remove the nuts from the regulator lower channel studs.
10. Remove the nuts from the regulator motor studs.
11. Remove the regulator rose bud clip from the door.
12. Remove the nuts from the upper regulator channel studs.
13. Fold the regulator and remove the regulator through the door inner opening.

Installation Procedure

Caution

Disconnect the power window switch when working inside the driver's door. When operated, the Express Down Feature allows the door window to drop very quickly, without stopping, which could cause personal injury.

1. Adjust the regulator jack screws to match the old regulator if replacing the regulator.
2. Fold the regulator and insert the folded regulator into the door with the motor forward.

3. Position the motor studs through the door inner panel.

Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

4. Install the nuts to the motor studs.
Tighten

Tighten the window regulator motor nuts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

5. Install the regulator channel studs through the holes in the door.
6. Install the nuts to the regulator channel studs in the following order:
1. Upper forward
2. Lower forward
3. Upper rearward
4. Lower rearward
7. Install the regulator rose bud clip to the door.
8. Tighten the window regulator channel stud nuts.
Tighten

Tighten the regulator channel stud nuts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).

9. Connect the electrical connector to the motor.

10. Reconnect the window switch and raise the regulator to the full up position.

11. Install the window. Refer to Window Replacement - Door .
12. Adjust the window to align with door opening.

13. Install the plugs in the window clamp sight access holes.

14. Install the uppermost screw mounting the speaker assembly to the door.
15. Install the remaining screws in a criss-cross pattern.
Tighten

Tighten the door speaker assembly screws to 3 N·m (27 lb in).
16. Connect the electrical/audio connector.

17. Install the water deflector.

18. Install the door trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Door .
19. Check the window fit, adjust as necessary. Refer to Window Height Adjustment - Door Major or Window Tip-In Adjustment - Door or Window Height Adjustment - Door Minor .
20. Install the access plugs into the bottom of the door.

Document ID# 657154
2002 Chevrolet Corvette

Last edited by DeeGee; Dec 31, 2008 at 04:39 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2008 | 11:34 AM
  #4  
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Thank you for planning my weekend. I will update in a few days.
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 03:12 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by 6SPDSebringSilverLS1
Thank you for planning my weekend. I will update in a few days.
There are pics that go with that procedure. PM me with your e mail and I can send you a word doc which includes the pics
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #6  
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window regulator....

lowest prices
www.gmpartshouse.com for Genuine GM
or
www.rockauto.com for after market brands
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 11:39 AM
  #7  
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Default

yep, regulator. Did it make clicking and cracking sounds? The regulator is cable driven and when the cable frays, the window stops. The new regulator comes complete, pretty easy to replace and just plug it back in. Yep, it's pricey and no, I havent' found a cheap one. You may be able to get it back up once, but I would get a new one, do it once and be done. Good luck.
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #8  
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Mine did that 2 days ago. It was the fuse, The fuse was ok, but the fuse was loose, if that makes since. I got a small flat head and pushed the metal things together. I believe its fuse #34under the foot rest on the pass. side. It works great now! Hope you get it fixed!
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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #9  
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A window regulator is one of the weak items on all modern cars these days. To save weight and cost mostly, these things are very fragile.

If any problems with clicking or jumping change it. Driver door is always the first to go.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #10  
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This must be my lucky week. The drivers side went out 2 months ago and now the passenger side is out.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 11:17 AM
  #11  
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My driver window on the 2004 Z first starting making noises, and then leaked with the rain we are currently experiencing, big time leak-
The window seems to move a lot inward, like something is broken, and now it will not go up or down at all.... anymore
Lucky it is up.

I looked at threads in the search function- so don't beat on me....

here is my question- I have a $200 decuctible GMPP warranty-
and even though I am mechanically inclined, based on the above it sounds worth it to take to my dealer for the $200 and have them do it.
They are a pretty good dealer- I think they can handle this.

I am real short on time in the next few weeks, and if parts will cost
close to $200 I will take it in-

What parts do you think are broken/needed and what would you do ?
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 11:21 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by zcobra1
My driver window on the 2004 Z first starting making noises, and then leaked with the rain we are currently experiencing, big time leak-
The window seems to move a lot inward, like something is broken, and now it will not go up or down at all.... anymore
Lucky it is up.

I looked at threads in the search function- so don't beat on me....

here is my question- I have a $200 decuctible GMPP warranty-
and even though I am mechanically inclined, based on the above it sounds worth it to take to my dealer for the $200 and have them do it.
They are a pretty good dealer- I think they can handle this.

I am real short on time in the next few weeks, and if parts will cost
close to $200 I will take it in-

What parts do you think are broken/needed and what would you do ?
I think I just answered my own question... Holy Molly !!! $297 bucks for a regulator- off to the dealer and warranty repair---
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #13  
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From: nokomis fl
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take the door pannel off and pull the plug from the motor. put the probes from a digital multimeeter in the plug end, one in each wire, key on push window down switch and check for voltage then window up. should have batt. voltage w/switch in both positions . this rules out the drivers door modjule,switch,ground or power supply.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 12:40 PM
  #14  
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Might I suggest the OP go with a factory part? I bought a regulator last year on fleabay new in package. It was the aftermarket brand and it worked literally for a day before sputtering out.

GM part installed, no problems again. Start Saturday morning, you'll be done by lunchtime, the door interior literally falls off. Easy to do.

ZCobra, your time sounds like its worth more than anything you might save. Parts are more expenisve than that... Remember, GM warranty is 200 ded. on the job. Anything else you can take it in and get checked out with the same deductible?

Cassidy
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #15  
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From: Lake Havasu, AZ.
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Dealer ( I mean STEALER) replaced the regulator on my drivers side- it cost me my $200 deductible on the GMPP- but the service guy said they charged GM $720 to fix it !!! Can you believe it - the part they said was $480 !

No wonder GM is losing money- $480 parts that forum vendors sell to us for under $300 and $240 in labor---
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 08:07 PM
  #16  
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Some people have attributed the window motor failure to using the auto down mode, and the relay does not release, causing the motor to overheat. I never use this mode anymore. I manually hold the button down and release it, so I know the motor is not continuing to try to run.

Also, I have GMPP and actually got them to pay me for the part and did the installation myself. I feel like we both came out ahead. GMPP did not have to pay the outrageous dealer labor cost, it did not cost me anything, and I did not have to leave the car at the dealer.
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