2000 MN6 won't start..
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Thanks for that schematic, that helps a ton. I'll be stopping by radio shack today and picking up another DMM. I got into robotics a couple months ago and it must've gotten lost in the pile of stuff in my workshop.
I did check all the obvious stuff, but it was to no avail. Also, where'd you get that schematic from?
I found this post on another forum and the problems sound like exactly what I'm having:
Mine does exactly that. Doesn't turn over, doesn't click, doesn't do anything when I go from 'on' to 'start'. Let the key out of 'start' and back to just 'on' and everything is back to normal.
I did check all the obvious stuff, but it was to no avail. Also, where'd you get that schematic from?
I found this post on another forum and the problems sound like exactly what I'm having:
Mine does exactly that. Doesn't turn over, doesn't click, doesn't do anything when I go from 'on' to 'start'. Let the key out of 'start' and back to just 'on' and everything is back to normal.
Like I said, I would verify all inputs to the TDR. That exact scenario explained is also what a bad clutch switch will do as well. With the new relay installed, can you jumper the red and purple wire and get the car to start?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
That schematic is directly from the 2000 C5 service manual. I have all the C5 service manuals.
Like I said, I would verify all inputs to the TDR. That exact scenario explained is also what a bad clutch switch will do as well. With the new relay installed, can you jumper the red and purple wire and get the car to start?
Like I said, I would verify all inputs to the TDR. That exact scenario explained is also what a bad clutch switch will do as well. With the new relay installed, can you jumper the red and purple wire and get the car to start?
I'll try and check if I can do that with the new relay when I get home (I'm at work now). I was able to jumper those two wires with the old relay and the starter kicked in (that's why I thought it was the relay). The engine didn't turn over, but the starter did crank. I also didn't leave it on for too long because I didn't want to damage anything.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Nono.. sorry, I'm not communicating right. It only did that when I jumped the two wires. I didn't hold them long enough to see if it would turn over because I was concerned that it'd mess something up.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
When my girl gets here I'll have her press the clutch pedal and I'll check the voltages then. Thanks for all the help so far!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Ok I checked the voltage at the pins. Red had +12 (just used that to make sure the DMM worked). Yellow had nothing to start. Pushed the clutch in, still 0. Turned the key to IGN and still 0.
I then went and bypassed the clutch switch by jumping from one prong to the other. Yellow had nothing to start. Pushed clutch in, 0. Turned the key to IGN and still 0.
Checked red and it was still 12 (to make sure DMM was still functioning).
Any ideas? :/
I then went and bypassed the clutch switch by jumping from one prong to the other. Yellow had nothing to start. Pushed clutch in, 0. Turned the key to IGN and still 0.
Checked red and it was still 12 (to make sure DMM was still functioning).
Any ideas? :/
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Ok I checked the voltage at the pins. Red had +12 (just used that to make sure the DMM worked). Yellow had nothing to start. Pushed the clutch in, still 0. Turned the key to IGN and still 0.
I then went and bypassed the clutch switch by jumping from one prong to the other. Yellow had nothing to start. Pushed clutch in, 0. Turned the key to IGN and still 0.
Checked red and it was still 12 (to make sure DMM was still functioning).
Any ideas? :/
I then went and bypassed the clutch switch by jumping from one prong to the other. Yellow had nothing to start. Pushed clutch in, 0. Turned the key to IGN and still 0.
Checked red and it was still 12 (to make sure DMM was still functioning).
Any ideas? :/
You will only get 12 volts through the clutch pedal switch when the igniton is turned to the "start" positon. So, you need to have your DMM connected to C2 on the TDR connector (yellow wire from the clutch pedal switch) , then depress the the clutch pedal, and turn the ignition to start. If you can have someone assist you, you could feel the TDR to see if it clicks, and/or check for 12 volts at A2(purple wire of the TDR) which would tell you the relay is closing.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Please make sure the car is in neutral for the following:
You will only get 12 volts through the clutch pedal switch when the igniton is turned to the "start" positon. So, you need to have your DMM connected to C2 on the TDR connector (yellow wire from the clutch pedal switch) , then depress the the clutch pedal, and turn the ignition to start. If you can have someone assist you, you could feel the TDR to see if it clicks, and/or check for 12 volts at A2(purple wire of the TDR) which would tell you the relay is closing.
You will only get 12 volts through the clutch pedal switch when the igniton is turned to the "start" positon. So, you need to have your DMM connected to C2 on the TDR connector (yellow wire from the clutch pedal switch) , then depress the the clutch pedal, and turn the ignition to start. If you can have someone assist you, you could feel the TDR to see if it clicks, and/or check for 12 volts at A2(purple wire of the TDR) which would tell you the relay is closing.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
If that's the case, and you have jumpered the clutch switch(at the clutch switch) and still get 0 volts at C2 of the TDR, the the problem is upstream. Make sure minifuse #14 is good in the passenger footwell. If it is, I would check continuity between the load side of minifuse #14 socket and C2 (yellow) on the TDR. You should read an "open" when the clutch pedal is up, and close to 0 ohms when depressed. I would depress the pedal numerous times to make sure the switch is not funky.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
If that's the case, and you have jumpered the clutch switch(at the clutch switch) and still get 0 volts at C2 of the TDR, the the problem is upstream. Make sure minifuse #14 is good in the passenger footwell. If it is, I would check continuity between the load side of minifuse #14 socket and C2 (yellow) on the TDR. You should read an "open" when the clutch pedal is up, and close to 0 ohms when depressed. I would depress the pedal numerous times to make sure the switch is not funky.
I checked for a connection between mf14 and the yellow cable and there is one there. The actual TDR itself isn't clicking when I turn the key though.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
I jumpered the clutchswitch again and checked the mf itself and just the socket. 0. Does the clutch switch provide a ground or actual power to that socket? If it's power, is there a fuse upstream of that? Maybe I blew that fuse?
I checked for a connection between mf14 and the yellow cable and there is one there. The actual TDR itself isn't clicking when I turn the key though.
I checked for a connection between mf14 and the yellow cable and there is one there. The actual TDR itself isn't clicking when I turn the key though.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Ok.. I did what we spoke about and I got the responses you were saying. When the clutch was out it was 'open' and then it changed when the clutch was in.
So going by what I've done so far, all that's left is the ignition switch? Is there anyway to check if it's the key at all, or is that something that would've had to be done before the car went bad?
So going by what I've done so far, all that's left is the ignition switch? Is there anyway to check if it's the key at all, or is that something that would've had to be done before the car went bad?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,465
Likes: 1,166
From: Dyer, IN
Ok.. I did what we spoke about and I got the responses you were saying. When the clutch was out it was 'open' and then it changed when the clutch was in.
So going by what I've done so far, all that's left is the ignition switch? Is there anyway to check if it's the key at all, or is that something that would've had to be done before the car went bad?
So going by what I've done so far, all that's left is the ignition switch? Is there anyway to check if it's the key at all, or is that something that would've had to be done before the car went bad?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1545929...84880/sizes/l/
We know the ciruit is good between the load side of fuse 14 and C2 of the TDR with the clutch pedal depressed, yet 12 volts is not present when trying to start the car. Since fuse 14 is good, that means the issue is upstream from the line side of the fuse socket to the ignition switch. You can do one final check if you want for 12 volts, with the key in start, at the line side of fuse 14. If probably won't be there, so you'll be investigating the ignition switch. Bill Curlee has a well documented procedure for the ignition switch. It can be found at the top of the tech section > Sticky: Important electrical information...go directly to post #559.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Awesome, thanks a lot lucky. I also found this (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html) yesterday. Looks to be the same thing as post #559 just in a thread of it's own.
Thanks again for all your help. I'll go through the ignition switch tonight and see what I find.
Thanks again for all your help. I'll go through the ignition switch tonight and see what I find.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 63
From: DC
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
Cleaned the ignition switch tonight. There were some dark connectors that looked burned, so I did everything Bill said. Still won't start though :/
I'm going to go through tomorrow morning and verify all the connections again. I have off from work, so I'll be spending the whole long weekend trying to figure this out.
I'm going to go through tomorrow morning and verify all the connections again. I have off from work, so I'll be spending the whole long weekend trying to figure this out.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
If you've got burned connections, about all you can do is gently file them down enough to expose the metal. But, if they are burned too far away, it won't do any good. All you can do then is buy a new switch.