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I need to do some research on getting a remote bleeder for my 03 Z06, I've searched the forum and have found some sales, but they were from Jun08 and older. Some of the links to the shops listed were outdated and ended in error pages. What do you all recommend for the bleeders, how much of a PITA are they to install and how long does it usually take to get done? I am a newb to Corvettes, this one is my first and I'm learning as I go, 1) that nothing on a Corvette is easy to do, especially anything that involves the trans or clutch, 2) there aren't that many mods that are cheap to do. It seems as though there is a special fee added because you mention it's for a Corvette, like if you have a Corvette you must have lots of money to spend.
Huge PIA to install, easy if your doing a new clutch. There are a lot of easy things to do, most of the engine is very easily accessable. I'm on my 3rd Vette and I've loved them all but the "Vette Tax" is well known. If you know that other cars like the Camaro and GTO have the same engine, many times you can get EXACTLY the same part for 1/2 the price byt getting the Camaro/GTO version. The Vette is really the only one with the transaxle in the rear though.
You need to hook up the bleeder to a fitting at the top of the transaxle, I seem to recall the exahust and tunnel plate have to come out to get to it and you still have to be a contortionist to get it connected.
Thanks for the headsup. I am very familiar with Camaro engines. My last car was an 02 SS that I got very intimate the engine, after putting the heads, cam, headers, lifters 2X, and the maggie on. I am looking forward to doing some mods to this car as well, after I dig out of the credit hole from the Camaro build. This car (03 Z06) is more suitable, and responds better to minor mods than a Camaro does. Better platform to begin with.
Here are the instructions to bleed the system from the manual, yau'll have to do most of it to get to the bleeder:
Clean all dirt and debris from the clutch master cylinder cap to ensure that no foreign substances will enter the system.
Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with diaphragm.
Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, if necessary.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal fully and hold.
Loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator cylinder to purge air.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
Release the clutch pedal.
Repeat steps 7 through 10 until all air is completely evacuated. Check and refill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, as necessary in order to prevent air from being drawn through the clutch master cylinder.
Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with clutch hydraulic fluid GM P/N 12345347, GM Canada P/N 10953517, or equivalent, if necessary.
Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement in Propeller Shaft.
Install the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Lower the vehicle.
The exhaust, tunnel plate and torque tube must come out to install the remote clutch bleeder unless you do it the way one member did and make a few special tools to be able to remove the old and install the new. With the effort he put in, I think it would have taken the same energy to do it the standard way. Most folks jut wait until they install a new clutch.