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AAHHHH A4 missed that, sorry. There really arent many tricks to swapping a cam. Just be carefull when you are reinstalling the balancer. DO NOT USE THE OLD BOLT!! They are "Torque To Yield" and are good for one use ONLY. If you snap that bolt in the front of the crank; you will be sorry. You can make a reinstallation tool for about $25.00 using bits from McMaster Carr.
Aware, new ARP bolt in the part bin ready to rock and roll..
Thanks for the reminder tho- nothing worse than those 'doh! moments!!
Subscribing. Man thats my favourite cam from Englandgreen and why did not get teh whole cam packae from englandgreen/jason, both the tuners are awesome and helpful i love to do business with them. One of these days i should have one.
Just because I don't know if i've covered this: I purchased an intake from Jason before he was with EG, and he was excellent to deal with, and I purchased the cam after some discussion with Stephen, he also went waaay out of his way to help me choose which cam. They have been excellent in my whole process (assuming I get that base tune back soon Stephen.. ) They come highly suggested thus far. We'll see how I feel when it's all done
TBH with air tools this wasn't much work at all, but glad there's an easier way as well.
FWIW There is a big note in the factory service manual not to use any air tools when removeing either the front or rear cradle. You run the risk of snapping the retaining pin for the bolts.
FWIW There is a big note in the factory service manual not to use any air tools when removeing either the front or rear cradle. You run the risk of snapping the retaining pin for the bolts.
Good note for those following along at home, I used them on the upper A arm and shock bolts without any troubles, I was doing something else when Dvandentop broke the cradle bolts loose, so not sure if he used them there or not, (most likely not if the shop manual dictates otherwise)
Yeah, it looks like you went to more trouble than you needed. THe steering rack is a SNAP to remove, just a couple of lines, a couple of bolts, and out the drivers side wheel well.
"What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes, it is NOT hard at all! And why aren't you installing headers with that cam? "
Can you give me specifics. I have to remove my underdrive pulley and install and pin my HB pulley as soon as I get some time, and I get sick just thinking about removing the rack.
LS1howto has a dozen steps including taking out the PUMP. I just want to know how to get it out of the way enough to pull the pulley
Boy, this site is really filling up with Jackasses.
The guy takes the time to document his install and share it with the site, and the nut swingers here have to prove how smart they are by picking apart his methods.
Its already done, and it is they way he did it because he said thats how the guy who is helping him wants to do it.
It's getting so people wont want to share because of the self acclaimed experts here.
"What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes, it is NOT hard at all! And why aren't you installing headers with that cam? "
Can you give me specifics. I have to remove my underdrive pulley and install and pin my HB pulley as soon as I get some time, and I get sick just thinking about removing the rack.
LS1howto has a dozen steps including taking out the PUMP. I just want to know how to get it out of the way enough to pull the pulley
You only need to pull the PS pump and bracket if you are removing the cylinder head, otherwise it stays. You will need to disconnect the 2 lines going from the pump to the rack, I believe the are 18mm. Use a flare wrench, you might strip them with a regular open end. Remove the crown nuts holding the tie rods to the spindle, remove the 2 large bolts holding the rack to the K-member, remove the 2 bolts holding the PS cooler to the k-member and tie it up with a zip tie, and if I remember correctly you have to loosen the bolts holding the ABS block to the K-member. The rack just slides out the passenger side. You will have to wiggle it and turn it a bit, but it isn't any big deal. If the car is up high enough on jackstands that you can easily slide in and out this should not take you more than 20 minutes.
You only need to pull the PS pump and bracket if you are removing the cylinder head, otherwise it stays. You will need to disconnect the 2 lines going from the pump to the rack, I believe the are 18mm. Use a flare wrench, you might strip them with a regular open end. Remove the crown nuts holding the tie rods to the spindle, remove the 2 large bolts holding the rack to the K-member, remove the 2 bolts holding the PS cooler to the k-member and tie it up with a zip tie, and if I remember correctly you have to loosen the bolts holding the ABS block to the K-member. The rack just slides out the passenger side. You will have to wiggle it and turn it a bit, but it isn't any big deal. If the car is up high enough on jackstands that you can easily slide in and out this should not take you more than 20 minutes.
Wow; I hope it turns out to be that easy; I helped reinstall mine when me and a buddy/mechanic installed my cam, but the guy that helped me took it out and removed and installed all of the bolts and connections, I just helped him wrestle the rack. It took us almost an hour to get that thing back in
I want to see a video of the idle.............good job........
X2 bcos 23x/24x cam iam interested and love to hear how it sounds, thanks for sharing and enjoy the vette now and describe when firts fired did it idle ok? or keep stalling.
Boy, this site is really filling up with Jackasses.
The guy takes the time to document his install and share it with the site, and the nut swingers here have to prove how smart they are by picking apart his methods.
Its already done, and it is they way he did it because he said thats how the guy who is helping him wants to do it.
It's getting so people wont want to share because of the self acclaimed experts here.
guys i have done many cam installs
my 01 z06
3 fbodys
cf member diamonds 02 z06
chris c5
and my c6z06
i have found it is way easier to drop the cradle from when i did my c6z06 this past summer then doing the power steering slide like i did on my 01 z06 a few years back.
sorry if you think your method is better or whatever but it worked fine for us and we are bolting back together now that is all that matters....
my 01 z06
3 fbodys
cf member diamonds 02 z06
chris c5
and my c6z06
i have found it is way easier to drop the cradle from when i did my c6z06 this past summer then doing the power steering slide like i did on my 01 z06 a few years back.
sorry if you think your method is better or whatever but it worked fine for us and we are bolting back together now that is all that matters....
Don't explain yourself to these guys, you don't need to.
Thanks for taking the time to document the install and share it with us. I love these types of posts, can't wait to see/hear the finished product.
make sure to keep rotating the crank while torquing down the rocker arms. This keeps the lifters in check. My lifter failure is suspected because of not rotating the crank while torquing the rockers.
Just up for the morning to go work on it, pretty excited, should be nooner or so CST for first fire. Then I gotta upload to youtube and wait for transcode... thanks for all the tips of the hats, I was very intimidated by the project but dvandentop talked me into it. Looking back it wasn't all that bad and a great way to save huge dollars on making some power.