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Cam Install: Jackstands Style - 56k warning

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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:32 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LDB C5
AAHHHH A4 missed that, sorry. There really arent many tricks to swapping a cam. Just be carefull when you are reinstalling the balancer. DO NOT USE THE OLD BOLT!! They are "Torque To Yield" and are good for one use ONLY. If you snap that bolt in the front of the crank; you will be sorry. You can make a reinstallation tool for about $25.00 using bits from McMaster Carr.
Aware, new ARP bolt in the part bin ready to rock and roll..

Thanks for the reminder tho- nothing worse than those 'doh! moments!!
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tommie
good job,

take some more pics and post them....

don't worry about dropping the cradle, if that's what you feel comfortable doing, and it works, then who cares?
Thanks! Will take some more detailed reinstall pics as we go here...

Can't wait to button it up and turn the key!
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:37 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by sami85L98
Subscribing. Man thats my favourite cam from Englandgreen and why did not get teh whole cam packae from englandgreen/jason, both the tuners are awesome and helpful i love to do business with them. One of these days i should have one.
Just because I don't know if i've covered this: I purchased an intake from Jason before he was with EG, and he was excellent to deal with, and I purchased the cam after some discussion with Stephen, he also went waaay out of his way to help me choose which cam. They have been excellent in my whole process (assuming I get that base tune back soon Stephen.. ) They come highly suggested thus far. We'll see how I feel when it's all done
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by iced98lx
TBH with air tools this wasn't much work at all, but glad there's an easier way as well.
FWIW There is a big note in the factory service manual not to use any air tools when removeing either the front or rear cradle. You run the risk of snapping the retaining pin for the bolts.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by LDB C5
FWIW There is a big note in the factory service manual not to use any air tools when removeing either the front or rear cradle. You run the risk of snapping the retaining pin for the bolts.
Good note for those following along at home, I used them on the upper A arm and shock bolts without any troubles, I was doing something else when Dvandentop broke the cradle bolts loose, so not sure if he used them there or not, (most likely not if the shop manual dictates otherwise)
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Cam in, everything done but:

Rockers tq'd to spec
valve covers on
alternator on
main belt on
exhaust bolted back up
coolant & power steering pump

then fire! (then hood and test drive!)

wooot!
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 08:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by iced98lx
Cam in, everything done but:

Rockers tq'd to spec
valve covers on
alternator on
main belt on
exhaust bolted back up
coolant & power steering pump

then fire! (then hood and test drive!)

wooot!
Don't forget to add "front end alignment" to your list....
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Fastbird@FastbirdPerf.com
Yeah, it looks like you went to more trouble than you needed. THe steering rack is a SNAP to remove, just a couple of lines, a couple of bolts, and out the drivers side wheel well.
"What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes, it is NOT hard at all! And why aren't you installing headers with that cam? "

Can you give me specifics. I have to remove my underdrive pulley and install and pin my HB pulley as soon as I get some time, and I get sick just thinking about removing the rack.
LS1howto has a dozen steps including taking out the PUMP. I just want to know how to get it out of the way enough to pull the pulley
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 09:00 PM
  #29  
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Boy, this site is really filling up with Jackasses.

The guy takes the time to document his install and share it with the site, and the nut swingers here have to prove how smart they are by picking apart his methods.

Its already done, and it is they way he did it because he said thats how the guy who is helping him wants to do it.

It's getting so people wont want to share because of the self acclaimed experts here.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 09:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE FED
"What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes, it is NOT hard at all! And why aren't you installing headers with that cam? "

Can you give me specifics. I have to remove my underdrive pulley and install and pin my HB pulley as soon as I get some time, and I get sick just thinking about removing the rack.
LS1howto has a dozen steps including taking out the PUMP. I just want to know how to get it out of the way enough to pull the pulley
You only need to pull the PS pump and bracket if you are removing the cylinder head, otherwise it stays. You will need to disconnect the 2 lines going from the pump to the rack, I believe the are 18mm. Use a flare wrench, you might strip them with a regular open end. Remove the crown nuts holding the tie rods to the spindle, remove the 2 large bolts holding the rack to the K-member, remove the 2 bolts holding the PS cooler to the k-member and tie it up with a zip tie, and if I remember correctly you have to loosen the bolts holding the ABS block to the K-member. The rack just slides out the passenger side. You will have to wiggle it and turn it a bit, but it isn't any big deal. If the car is up high enough on jackstands that you can easily slide in and out this should not take you more than 20 minutes.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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I want to see a video of the idle.............good job........
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
You only need to pull the PS pump and bracket if you are removing the cylinder head, otherwise it stays. You will need to disconnect the 2 lines going from the pump to the rack, I believe the are 18mm. Use a flare wrench, you might strip them with a regular open end. Remove the crown nuts holding the tie rods to the spindle, remove the 2 large bolts holding the rack to the K-member, remove the 2 bolts holding the PS cooler to the k-member and tie it up with a zip tie, and if I remember correctly you have to loosen the bolts holding the ABS block to the K-member. The rack just slides out the passenger side. You will have to wiggle it and turn it a bit, but it isn't any big deal. If the car is up high enough on jackstands that you can easily slide in and out this should not take you more than 20 minutes.
Wow; I hope it turns out to be that easy; I helped reinstall mine when me and a buddy/mechanic installed my cam, but the guy that helped me took it out and removed and installed all of the bolts and connections, I just helped him wrestle the rack. It took us almost an hour to get that thing back in
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 01:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 20vette0107fatboy
I want to see a video of the idle.............good job........
X2 bcos 23x/24x cam iam interested and love to hear how it sounds, thanks for sharing and enjoy the vette now and describe when firts fired did it idle ok? or keep stalling.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 01:50 AM
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God thread hope to see a video soon good luck
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 01:50 AM
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Good thread hope to see a video soon good luck
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 02:46 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Chevy Guy
Boy, this site is really filling up with Jackasses.

The guy takes the time to document his install and share it with the site, and the nut swingers here have to prove how smart they are by picking apart his methods.

Its already done, and it is they way he did it because he said thats how the guy who is helping him wants to do it.

It's getting so people wont want to share because of the self acclaimed experts here.

guys i have done many cam installs

my 01 z06
3 fbodys
cf member diamonds 02 z06
chris c5
and my c6z06

i have found it is way easier to drop the cradle from when i did my c6z06 this past summer then doing the power steering slide like i did on my 01 z06 a few years back.
sorry if you think your method is better or whatever but it worked fine for us and we are bolting back together now that is all that matters....
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:32 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dvandentop
guys i have done many cam installs

my 01 z06
3 fbodys
cf member diamonds 02 z06
chris c5
and my c6z06

i have found it is way easier to drop the cradle from when i did my c6z06 this past summer then doing the power steering slide like i did on my 01 z06 a few years back.
sorry if you think your method is better or whatever but it worked fine for us and we are bolting back together now that is all that matters....

Don't explain yourself to these guys, you don't need to.

Thanks for taking the time to document the install and share it with us. I love these types of posts, can't wait to see/hear the finished product.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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make sure to keep rotating the crank while torquing down the rocker arms. This keeps the lifters in check. My lifter failure is suspected because of not rotating the crank while torquing the rockers.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Just up for the morning to go work on it, pretty excited, should be nooner or so CST for first fire. Then I gotta upload to youtube and wait for transcode... thanks for all the tips of the hats, I was very intimidated by the project but dvandentop talked me into it. Looking back it wasn't all that bad and a great way to save huge dollars on making some power.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 02:24 PM
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