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Cam Install: Jackstands Style - 56k warning

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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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Default Cam Install: Jackstands Style - 56k warning

* Videos:


Idle under The hood:



Idle Behind (my favorite, I think)



And A rev to about 3500:

*

Starting two days ago Dvandentop (bless his soul, coming down from C6z to help a brother out) and myself are putting a new camshaft into my 98.

Prepped and ready:



Dvandentop workin his *** off:



New springs vs. Old springs:


Side one Done:


I made myself mildly useful and got the front cradle ready to drop


With the cradle dropped a little heat goes a long way:


Me goofin off:


Dvandentop is not amused:


woot.




Front cover came off last night too, we stopped there for the evening. We would have made it further but we didn't realize with the A4 we'd have to block the flywheel. We quick searched and read that we had to drop the starter, cats etc and did that to discover we'd have to take the manifold off to get the starter out..
so instead we poppeed the seal off the back of the bellhousing and crammed a screw driver in there while breaking the crank bolt loose.

So far so good! Today/tomorrow new cam in, meiling oil pump on 25% ud pulley and button it up!

Last edited by iced98lx; Jan 12, 2009 at 12:14 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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What cam you goin with?
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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England Green Mayhem Cam
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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Fun isnt it? I have done 2 already and there a blast.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Why did you drop the cradle?
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LDB C5
Why did you drop the cradle?
to not take out the steering rack? Maybe?
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LDB C5
Why did you drop the cradle?
My question exactly....I will be doing this in a few months so very interested!
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LDB C5
Why did you drop the cradle?
Just as easy to us, a few bolts and a jack and it's down out of the way. Left engine on jack stands. Neither of us thought moving the steering rack looked fun, and this took 20 min at most if you remember to unbolt the steering and watch your wiring/tubing. it really was a breeze doing it that way, but again, mostly your choice I'm guessing as I've never done one the other way.

The only thing I think we created extra work on so far was when we dropped the cats to the catback piping to try to get the starter down.

A4 people: to get the crank bolt out, just take the rubber plug on the bellhousing out and wedge a screwdriver/steel bar in to stop the flywheel. much easier, just as effective.

other parts list:
Nmotion timing set
10% increase melling oil pump
Powerbond 25% under-drive pulley
Patriot Xtreme .660 springs
Comp 7.400 pushrods
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Don
Fun isnt it? I have done 2 already and there a blast.
LOVE it, just will be investing in a lift for the next one.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Thanks for the pics, I'll be watching this one!!
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Subscribing. Man thats my favourite cam from Englandgreen and why did not get teh whole cam packae from englandgreen/jason, both the tuners are awesome and helpful i love to do business with them. One of these days i should have one.

Would u please also mention which method did u use to change valve springs bcos i dont want air compressor and wanna do a TDC method. Post some more pics and i was interested in davendtop's silver Z06 when he sold 2 yrs ago that was badarse too.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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Hi Guys! There is a good site out there , head and cam swap ! Step by step guide!
LS1 Howto .com check it out!
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 09:35 PM
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What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes, it is NOT hard at all! And why aren't you installing headers with that cam?
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes,
Yeah, it looks like you went to more trouble than you needed. THe steering rack is a SNAP to remove, just a couple of lines, a couple of bolts, and out the drivers side wheel well.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird@FastbirdPerf.com
Yeah, it looks like you went to more trouble than you needed. THe steering rack is a SNAP to remove, just a couple of lines, a couple of bolts, and out the drivers side wheel well.
plus no alignment should be needed if you just drop the steering rack - To each his own, but I think I like the LS1 method better
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird@FastbirdPerf.com
Yeah, it looks like you went to more trouble than you needed. THe steering rack is a SNAP to remove, just a couple of lines, a couple of bolts, and out the drivers side wheel well.
That's completely fine with me.. I've not done a cam swap before and the guy helping me has done 9 in garages on jackstands for everything from fbody's to his own c6z. I trust his opinion and how he wants to do it. TBH with air tools this wasn't much work at all, but glad there's an easier way as well.

headers question: I'll do headers later, I'm actually quite interested in what kind of gains you can get cam only (stock heads stock intake) and yes i know i can get much more with headers and an intake. That's the plan, right after I find out how much you gain cam only. It's a bit of a science experiment.

why didn't I buy the whole EG package? I am using all brand new components and with the cam have spent ~1000-1200 (not keeping 100% track, but could if needed). the whole EG package is a great deal but I managed to get a couple killer deals on some things that made it turn out in my favor on $$ end of things and ended up with a couple 'upgrades' to their package (Nmotion timing set, for example).

As for the springs, they took a bit longer because of the perimeter bolt heads, but we got them. We used the air compressor fitting in the spark plug hole and a spring compressor bar, along with a hacked up smaller one for the hard to get to/end ones. in the middle of the passenger side it took 5 min to to get spring off and new one on. The end ones took more trial and error, obviously.

Hopefully finishing up this afternoon and I'll have a first fire video on tonight. Of course delays are inevitable so who knows, it snowed 2 inches over night so there's no rush
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
What on earth makes you think dropping the cradle is easier than pulling the steering rack?! You can have the rack out in a matter of minutes, it is NOT hard at all! And why aren't you installing headers with that cam?
I have done a bunch of cam installs and I never once dropped the cradle WAY too much work compared to moving the rack!

Why on earth did you remove the starter?
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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didn't remove the starter but it was one option for stopping the flywheel with an a4. eventually just removed the plug in the back of the bellhousing and used a metal bar to stop it.

and again: glad you find it easier to move the rack, this didn't seem to impeed our progress that much but I'm sure glad you saved yourself the 20 min it took us to drop it and informed everyone of it, I'm sure everyone will now know the easier smarter way, which is what this forum is all about.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:26 AM
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AAHHHH A4 missed that, sorry. There really arent many tricks to swapping a cam. Just be carefull when you are reinstalling the balancer. DO NOT USE THE OLD BOLT!! They are "Torque To Yield" and are good for one use ONLY. If you snap that bolt in the front of the crank; you will be sorry. You can make a reinstallation tool for about $25.00 using bits from McMaster Carr.
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:27 AM
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good job,

take some more pics and post them....

don't worry about dropping the cradle, if that's what you feel comfortable doing, and it works, then who cares?
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