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Changing Water Pump

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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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Default Changing Water Pump

I'm going to change my water pump and pulley tensioners tonight. Are there any unusual issues to be aware of? I have the service manuals to follow and it looks to be very straight forward but thats what worries me.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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Remove your belts completely from the car before removing any coolant lines. Seems that if any coolant gets on the belts they will sqeek afterwards.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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I made a channel out of aluminum foil a few layers thick to channel the coolant over the A/C compressor and the front saddle for when the two hoses on the side are removed. I remove the hoses slowly and let the coolant go into the channel and then over the saddle and into a container. (First time I did this it was a mess, live and learn)

When installing, the gaskets are a pain to keep in place. Last install I made four studs from bolts with the head cut off and then put two on each side, installed the gasket then slid on the pump over the studs and put the remaining two bolts (one on each side) in loose. Then remove the studs one at a time and replace with the bolts. Just don't make the studs too long or the pump won't fit in behind the fans assembly. Once they are all in, you are assured the gaskets are in place and you can go through the tightening sequence.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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Good ideas Thanks !!
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
When installing, the gaskets are a pain to keep in place. Last install I made four studs from bolts with the head cut off and then put two on each side, installed the gasket then slid on the pump over the studs and put the remaining two bolts (one on each side) in loose. Then remove the studs one at a time and replace with the bolts. Just don't make the studs too long or the pump won't fit in behind the fans assembly. Once they are all in, you are assured the gaskets are in place and you can go through the tightening sequence.
great idea, i just did this job a couple weeks ago on my 03 Z and it was a pain in the a** trying to keep those gaskets in place.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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its pretty simple....shouldn't take ya more than 60-90 minutes
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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One other tip:

Inspect your wp bolts and clean the threads if necessary. They are steel going into aluminum (electrolysis factor going on) so after cleaning, I coated the shank and threads with a light coating of anti-seize.

HTH
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 01:35 PM
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Cut slots with a hack saw into the ends of the guide studs after removing the bolt heads, to facilitate removal (to allow use of a screwdriver)
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by timemender
Cut slots with a hack saw into the ends of the guide studs after removing the bolt heads, to facilitate removal (to allow use of a screwdriver)
Great idea, that would shorten my studs and allow removal even if they were shorter than the pump thickness.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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Well it went pretty smoothly. I changed both belts and the tensioners while I was working in the area. It made the gasket issue much easier to deal with to remove the throttle body so you could see down in there.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:32 PM
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97/8 are extra fun w/ old school paper gaskets
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Doten
97/8 are extra fun w/ old school paper gaskets
They create colorful language.
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