Parking Brake Adjustment???
01-21-2009, 11:48 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Parking Brake Adjustment???
My dad got in my C5 and parked it in my driveway....He didnt pull the parking brake to the last click and the car wanted to roll as he got out.... Is the same on all C5s or do I need to make an adjustment??
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
01-22-2009, 12:23 AM
#2
Race Director
Might have to adjust the shoes by removing the rear rotors and cleaning out the adjusters, etc ...
01-22-2009, 01:12 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Ohhh my not quite what I was hoping to hear but I ll just have to look into it some more....but hmmmm I wanna paint my calipers so if i would have to mess with the rotors good time to do some paint work also
01-22-2009, 08:24 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
I just did this adjustment on my 2000 FRC. It's not a big job. I recently bought a 01 coupe to use as a DD. I now have to adjust the parking brake on it. It's a common problem on C5s.
01-22-2009, 04:29 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#parkbrake
Good luck. Had to do this on my C5. Worked great.
Good luck. Had to do this on my C5. Worked great.
01-22-2009, 06:59 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Yes, the E-brake "pistons" have the little ratchet adjusters on them just like drum brakes did. Sometimes you can do the same trick we did with the old drum setup - roll backwards and jerk up on the handle several times. Going backwards seems to set the ratchet better. But, they do get gummed up over time, and just won't adjust or hold well. Then it's time to pop the rotor off and clean and lube everything. As stated above, no big deal - two big old bolts on the caliper and you're there. fYI, 125 ft-lbs on the caliper bolts.
DG
DG
01-22-2009, 08:53 PM
#9
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Yes, the E-brake "pistons" have the little ratchet adjusters on them just like drum brakes did. Sometimes you can do the same trick we did with the old drum setup - roll backwards and jerk up on the handle several times. Going backwards seems to set the ratchet better. But, they do get gummed up over time, and just won't adjust or hold well. Then it's time to pop the rotor off and clean and lube everything. As stated above, no big deal - two big old bolts on the caliper and you're there. fYI, 125 ft-lbs on the caliper bolts.
DG
DG
the only way to correct this problem is to adjust the star adjust which has no mechanism to auto adjust.. you have to physically turn the star out to a point where you almost have to push hard to get the drum over the shoes... You can not make the shoe diameter too big and still get the drum over the shoes.. the inside diameter of the drum is bigger where the shoes ride than when the shoes first enter the drum.. so you can not make it ( shoe diameter )too big and still get the drum over the shoes..
I hope this clears up all the urban legends, and less than accurate information.
Bill aka ET
Last edited by Evil-Twin; 01-22-2009 at 08:56 PM.
02-06-2014, 08:22 AM
#14
Safety Car
Member Since: Jan 2014
Location: Walhalla South Carolina
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drum diameter
let me set everyone straight on this... pulling up on the lever will only effect the slack in the cable, but not the clearance between the OD of the brake shoes and the ID of the Ebrake drum....
the only way to correct this problem is to adjust the star adjust which has no mechanism to auto adjust.. you have to physically turn the star out to a point where you almost have to push hard to get the drum over the shoes... You can not make the shoe diameter too big and still get the drum over the shoes.. the inside diameter of the drum is bigger where the shoes ride than when the shoes first enter the drum.. so you can not make it ( shoe diameter )too big and still get the drum over the shoes..
I hope this clears up all the urban legends, and less than accurate information.
Bill aka ET
the only way to correct this problem is to adjust the star adjust which has no mechanism to auto adjust.. you have to physically turn the star out to a point where you almost have to push hard to get the drum over the shoes... You can not make the shoe diameter too big and still get the drum over the shoes.. the inside diameter of the drum is bigger where the shoes ride than when the shoes first enter the drum.. so you can not make it ( shoe diameter )too big and still get the drum over the shoes..
I hope this clears up all the urban legends, and less than accurate information.
Bill aka ET
02-06-2014, 11:04 AM
#15
Instructor
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The lip you indicated is due to wear. If you purchase new rotors, that lip is not present. I would try to find a shop that will turn down parking brake surface to get the lip removed and to clean up the surface. I am assuming you have already purchased new replacement parking brake disks. You will not be able to get the best (tightest) adjustment with that lip in place. Also, that retaining spring was a pain in the neck to get it seated properly. Best of luck.
02-06-2014, 05:29 PM
#16
Safety Car
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Rotor Drum
The lip you indicated is due to wear. If you purchase new rotors, that lip is not present. I would try to find a shop that will turn down parking brake surface to get the lip removed and to clean up the surface. I am assuming you have already purchased new replacement parking brake disks. You will not be able to get the best (tightest) adjustment with that lip in place. Also, that retaining spring was a pain in the neck to get it seated properly. Best of luck.
02-07-2014, 10:14 AM
#17
The lip was very minimal and the shoes looked like new so I put the rotor back on after adjusting the shoes as tight as I could and still get the rotor on. Vette brakes hold but still not like I would like. From reading a lot of info on these type e brakes I concur with most of them that these are a poor design and really not made to slide the tires but will hold on a slight grade.
02-08-2014, 09:22 PM
#18
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '14
There should never be any wear on the shoes or drums. The p brake is applied when the car is already stationary. The only time you would get wear is if someone is/ has driven with the p brake partially/applied. I agree the shoe to drum clearance is probably excessive.
02-09-2014, 01:39 AM
#19
Advanced
My 2003 C5 failed Texas safety inspection because I was told the Parking Brake didn't hold the car still while in drive with the engine revved to 1100 RPM. Heck, it started rolling at 300!
Removed the rear wheels, caliper and rotors and adjusted the shoes by turning the star wheel, per a thread on C5 forum. Parking break then held until about 800 RPM.
Following another suggestion, and realizing that the drum and shoes aren't perfectly round, I took to the neighborhood street and at 10 mph pulled the park break lever up. It screeched pretty loud the first couple of times but it wore down the high spot so more of the shoes contact the drums.
The park break now holds the car steady up to 1400 RPM and passed inspection.
Removed the rear wheels, caliper and rotors and adjusted the shoes by turning the star wheel, per a thread on C5 forum. Parking break then held until about 800 RPM.
Following another suggestion, and realizing that the drum and shoes aren't perfectly round, I took to the neighborhood street and at 10 mph pulled the park break lever up. It screeched pretty loud the first couple of times but it wore down the high spot so more of the shoes contact the drums.
The park break now holds the car steady up to 1400 RPM and passed inspection.
02-09-2014, 02:29 AM
#20
Team Owner
There should never be any wear on the shoes or drums. The p brake is applied when the car is already stationary. The only time you would get wear is if someone is/ has driven with the p brake partially/applied. I agree the shoe to drum clearance is probably excessive.
They are parking brakes, not "e-brakes" and should last the life of the car. When correctly adjusted, the brake handle should have 11 clicks for full engagement.