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Transmission problems. Help please... :(

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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 02:47 PM
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Default Transmission problems. Help please... :(

So I've had my 02 Z06 for 3 years now with NO problems whatsoever. It's been the most reliable car I've ever owned. Yesterday we had a pretty bad ice storm pass through here in Dallas and now I'm having problems with the transmission.

The clutch pedal is, without a doubt, significantly harder to press, and the car will not shift into any gear. I drove it yesterday before things got too icy with no problems, but last night I decided to make a food run only to find that my car will not drive at all. I was thinking the cold weather might have had something to do with my problem, but I tried to drive it today and the same thing happened.

The clutch pedal feels just fine and normal when the car is off and will shift effortlessly, but when it is turned on the clutch becomes very stiff and will not shift into any gear. I've never had any problems whatsoever with the clutch until now. No grinding, no chattering, and no sign of slipping whatsoever. If someone out there knows anything, I'm begging for your help. My fiance just lost her job and her car, so my car is our only form of transportation. I'm REALLY hoping this is something simple because with her out of work we don't really have $800 to throw down on a new master/slave job, and until it's fixed, we're left without transportation.

Thanks for your help,
-Eric
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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Have you tried the turkey baster method on your clutch fluid?
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bartsky
Have you tried the turkey baster method on your clutch fluid?
Hadn't heard of this before. I just read up on it and am going to give it a try when I get home. Wish me luck!
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Is there any fluid appearing underneath the car?

If there is, The slave cylinder may have died or there's a leak somewhere between the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder. I've had my slave cylinder fail before and I could not get the car into gear- infact to limp it home, I had to start the car in 2nd gear and drive it home the whole way with no clutch and 2nd gear

This would explain how you cannot get it into the trans. into gear when the engine is running. Although this does not explain the stiff pedal, when my slave went bad the clutch sunk to the floor and wouldn't come back up.
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Since you have never heard of it, you will most likely find blackish fluid in your reservoir.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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I got all the fluid syphoned out and put new fluid in. It was dirty, but the clutch is still stiff and won't go into gear. Checked under the car, there are no leaks or anything like that. When I turn the car on and try to put it in gear the car tries to go as if it were in gear. Any ideas?
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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There's gotta be a break somewhere between the master cylinder and the slave- another possibility is the fitting between the slave and the master cylinder (get under the car, look on the driver side near your header/manifold pipe- there's a copper looking fitting with a white nylon ring, that has stainless braided line going both ways) and see if that seperated.

Yes I know it will be difficult to jack the car without a functional clutch pedal. I'd recommend putting stacks of boards infront of the car, start the car in gear (make sure you won't hit anything!) in order to get clearance to stuff a jack under it.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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Keep pumping it, and check the fluid again. It may circulate enough through the master cylinder to help you out. Some say it takes a couple of times to get it clean. But, FYI this procedure does not fully bleed the slave or hydrolic lines. It does remove contaminates from the master cylinder.

Living in Dallas I bet your Vette has not seen freezing temps very often. I'd be thinking that maybe the water in your clutch fluid is freezing. Hopefully it will get a little better when it warms up some if the cleaning of the master does not help. But, it would mean you need at least a real bleed of the clutch. Its a major PIA, the bleed screw is near the top side of the bell housing where the housing meets the torque tube (drive line). You have to drop the exahust and tunnel plate to get to it I think. Its a lot of work for someone who has not done it. Remoter clutch bleeders are very popular for this reason. If you get work done, get a remote bleeder installed they run like $50.

But, take this idea with a grain of salt I'm no mechanic, just trying to throw some ideas out there...
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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What I don't understand is why the clutch pedal pushes harder when the engine is running. While temperature could affect things, the fluid and the master/slave cylinder should act the same whether the engine is running or not.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Have you let the engine come up to full operating temp and see if that has any effect on the issue.


Im also wondering what could be wrong that the clutch works fine with the engine OFF but fails with the engine running????? Very Strange.

What happens if you press the clutch in fully, then start the engine?? Try that in gear and out of gear. (I would jack the rear wheels and set the car down on jacj stands so you can expierement more.)

BC
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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I agree, it is strange. Its not like there is a vacuum assist or anything. But, maybe some pressure from not being fully disengaged?

If anyone can help its Bill, follow his diagnostics he knows what he is doing.
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