I need a refresher on brake work...
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
I need a refresher on brake work...
I'll be replacing my calipers once I get my cores powder coated soon. I've never had to actually remove a caliper, just set it out of the way when changing rotors. This may be a dumb question, but I like to be completely ready before tackling any job. Does the brake hose fitting swivel out of the caliper, or do I have to rotate the caliper while holding the brake hose in position? Also, should I try to keep the hoses aimed upward to save fluid, or does it really matter? I had speed bleeders installed at the dealer when he installed stainless lines, but they will have to be switched to the new calipers...any tips for this step? I hate to sound like a newbie, but you know how it is once you get started on these hard labor jobs....haha.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I'll be replacing my calipers once I get my cores powder coated soon. I've never had to actually remove a caliper, just set it out of the way when changing rotors. This may be a dumb question, but I like to be completely ready before tackling any job. Does the brake hose fitting swivel out of the caliper, or do I have to rotate the caliper while holding the brake hose in position? Also, should I try to keep the hoses aimed upward to save fluid, or does it really matter? I had speed bleeders installed at the dealer when he installed stainless lines, but they will have to be switched to the new calipers...any tips for this step? I hate to sound like a newbie, but you know how it is once you get started on these hard labor jobs....haha.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 5
From: Stark County Ohio
I don’t know your circumstance, (show quality C5, calipers need replaced?), however, if you simply clean the calipers and apply high-temp paint, you can save yourself a lot of trouble. I have seen some very good examples of painted calipers that rival powder coating. The caliper can remain on the rotor when cleaning & painting.
See this web site - http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/caliper_painting.htm
You will need to bleed the hydraulic system if you open the system. A Tech2 may also be needed to purge air from the ABS system IF air gets into ABS internal valve system.
Proper bleed sequence is –
1997 – 2000 RR-LR-RF-LF (Front wheels are paired in the hydraulic system, as are the rear wheels paired)
2001 – 2004 RR-LF-LR-RF (RR & LF are paired in the hydraulic system, as are the LR & RF wheels paired)
See this web site - http://www.iammoon.com/c5tech/caliper_painting.htm
You will need to bleed the hydraulic system if you open the system. A Tech2 may also be needed to purge air from the ABS system IF air gets into ABS internal valve system.
Proper bleed sequence is –
1997 – 2000 RR-LR-RF-LF (Front wheels are paired in the hydraulic system, as are the rear wheels paired)
2001 – 2004 RR-LF-LR-RF (RR & LF are paired in the hydraulic system, as are the LR & RF wheels paired)
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,904
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From: Vancouver Washington
Hose can be removed without rotating the caliper. Since the origins of the lines are higher than you can get the end of the hose, it doen't really matter if it's elevated or not. Just have a rag handy.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
NO disrespect taken. I installed the current rotors and pads myself 5 years ago. I've painted my calipers several times, and they now look like crap. I am getting powder coated calipers and new rotors while I am at it. All I want to know about is the actual removal of a caliper. I can do everything myself, especially with my 4 post lift....just don't want any surprises.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Lower wetland Gods country
Calipers
Only other thing to watch for when you put the new calipers on, and you probably already know this, make sure you put the calipers on so that the bleeder screws are located at the highest point. There is a left and right. You can put them on the wrong side, but then you will never get them bled.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
DO NOT under any circumstance allow the fluid to drain out enough to cause the master cylinder to go dry!!!
If that happens, you WILL need to have someone with a GM Tech II bleed the system.
You can blead the C5 just like any other car. Just dont allow that master cylinder to go dry!
You can purchase a set of banjo fitting seals or just make your own.
Use a small bolt that will fit through the hole in the banjo fitting, make some rubber washers that are big enough to seal the banjo fitting and find some metal washers as backings for the rubber washers. Put the metal washer on the bolt then a rubber washer, slide it through the banjo fitting, slide on a rubber washer and a metal washer and spin on a nut to clamp the seals tight. It should keep the fluid from leaking out.
Before you start, use a big syringe and a rubber hose and suck as much of the old fluid out of the master cyl as you can and then add in the new fresh dot 4 fluid. That way your getting fresh fluid through the system sooner and using less new fluid.
BC
If that happens, you WILL need to have someone with a GM Tech II bleed the system. You can blead the C5 just like any other car. Just dont allow that master cylinder to go dry!
You can purchase a set of banjo fitting seals or just make your own.
Use a small bolt that will fit through the hole in the banjo fitting, make some rubber washers that are big enough to seal the banjo fitting and find some metal washers as backings for the rubber washers. Put the metal washer on the bolt then a rubber washer, slide it through the banjo fitting, slide on a rubber washer and a metal washer and spin on a nut to clamp the seals tight. It should keep the fluid from leaking out.
Before you start, use a big syringe and a rubber hose and suck as much of the old fluid out of the master cyl as you can and then add in the new fresh dot 4 fluid. That way your getting fresh fluid through the system sooner and using less new fluid.
BC
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Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 16,376
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Only other thing to watch for when you put the new calipers on, and you probably already know this, make sure you put the calipers on so that the bleeder screws are located at the highest point. There is a left and right. You can put them on the wrong side, but then you will never get them bled.
Good advice, and I did not think about the RH LH condition.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 16,376
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
DO NOT under any circumstance allow the fluid to drain out enough to cause the master cylinder to go dry!!! If that happens, you WILL need to have someone with a GM Tech II bleed the system.
You can blead the C5 just like any other car. Just dont allow that master cylinder to go dry!
You can purchase a set of banjo fitting seals or just make your own.
Use a small bolt that will fit through the hole in the banjo fitting, make some rubber washers that are big enough to seal the banjo fitting and find some metal washers as backings for the rubber washers. Put the metal washer on the bolt then a rubber washer, slide it through the banjo fitting, slide on a rubber washer and a metal washer and spin on a nut to clamp the seals tight. It should keep the fluid from leaking out.
Before you start, use a big syringe and a rubber hose and suck as much of the old fluid out of the master cyl as you can and then add in the new fresh dot 4 fluid. That way your getting fresh fluid through the system sooner and using less new fluid.
BC
If that happens, you WILL need to have someone with a GM Tech II bleed the system. You can blead the C5 just like any other car. Just dont allow that master cylinder to go dry!
You can purchase a set of banjo fitting seals or just make your own.
Use a small bolt that will fit through the hole in the banjo fitting, make some rubber washers that are big enough to seal the banjo fitting and find some metal washers as backings for the rubber washers. Put the metal washer on the bolt then a rubber washer, slide it through the banjo fitting, slide on a rubber washer and a metal washer and spin on a nut to clamp the seals tight. It should keep the fluid from leaking out.
Before you start, use a big syringe and a rubber hose and suck as much of the old fluid out of the master cyl as you can and then add in the new fresh dot 4 fluid. That way your getting fresh fluid through the system sooner and using less new fluid.
BC
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
NO disrespect taken. I installed the current rotors and pads myself 5 years ago. I've painted my calipers several times, and they now look like crap. I am getting powder coated calipers and new rotors while I am at it. All I want to know about is the actual removal of a caliper. I can do everything myself, especially with my 4 post lift....just don't want any surprises.
Now that you've asked some specific questions, and have gotten good answers, you'll do fine.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 18,308
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From: Marlton. Increasing performance one speeding ticket at a time! NJ
More good advice...thanks Bill...I was hoping you had some words of wisdom for me. So, as I see it, when I remove the old calipers I keep the brake lines on the car; I do not take them off and bench fit lines to the new calipers, correct? Then, I transfer the speed bleeders to the new calipers before installation..from there it is just a matter of bleeding which is very simple with the speed bleeders.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Removing the brake line from the caliper is one screw. You should have the other caliper handy. Once you remove the brake line, just quickly attach it to the new caliper. Do this on all four corners and bleed however you want. Personally, I use a pressure bleeder that ensures the master cylinder is always full.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 163
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From: Frisco Texas
I would start when I recieved the new calipers, remove the old,install the new and transfer the bleeders( cool by the way,but pricey as bleeders go)Bleed it and test drive.Remember to always pump up the brakes before starting or moving the car.Always insure that the master is full.