ok so i spun a bering in my motor. bought a new one from a wrecked 99 ss camaro. after many days of work everything is put back together. so far so good. car starts right up, idles fine, revs nicely and every thing is great. That is untill you put it in gear and start to take off. then the car kills its self as i start to let out the clutch. a friend of mine has a scanner and we cleared the codes and the only one that keeps coming back is 412 which i dont even know what that is.

does anyone know what is causing this i have never seen anything like it.

 

Search for it, use the full number i.e. p0412. Its an issue with the AIR system and it would not keep your car from running.

Sounds like maybe colum lock?? Clean the resistor on the key and try again.

What kind of scanner? You don't need a scanner to get the codes, search on DIC codes for instructions on how to get the codes. Anything less than a tech 2 or tuning software is a wast on the Vette.

Also, fill out your avatar there may be people close by that can help.

 

Sure sounds like the column lock but if he's not getting the pull key and wait 10 secs message, what else would kill the fuel?

 

Read your OWN DTCs. Scanner??? You dont need no stinking scanner!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

Sounds like your security system is active. Do you ever see a PULL KEY WAIT 10 SEC message when you start the engine?? If you do, thats the issue! The resistor chip in your key is read by the module on the front of the ignition switch. If the resistance is wrong or the contacts are dirty, what your discribing will happen. Is your steering column locked when you have the key ON.

Read your DTCs and post what is being displayed. If you have TONS of DTC, clear them and try to drive the car again and then read and post the current set of DTCs Make sure you include the H and or C if there there.

Bill

 

guys thanks so much for your help it was the colum lock.

 

ok so i have read some info on the 0412 code that is current on the car. but i am still lost. someone said something could be cleaned to help but so far no real answer on what to do to fix it.

 

Glad your working again.

Don't worry too much about the P0412, it won't effect how your Vette runs. It is an emissions system that runs when you first start your car, it blows fresh air into the exhaust to make the cats get up to temp faster. It could be a lot of things, not having all the AIR pipes connected (to both manifolds), a stuck valve, the wiring to the pump not hooked up (in the nose drivers side), a kinked hose, and so on. Read up on the AIR system and then trace it to see whats happening. If you want to remove the system then you have to get a custom tune to remove the codes. I think about that every time I change the plugs or work on the headers. A major PIA, but we have a visual emissions inspection here...

 

will this code make me fail the emissions test?

 

It depends,,as MattB said You should fill out your profile so we know what area you live in .Emission checks vary widely in different parts of the country,from strict **** check like California to some states have little or nothing.I would imagine since you asked the question you have at least a "plug in check" and since its showing a code for an emission system you most likely fail. Fill out at least the city/state part of your profile (and preferably year and tranny of your car) and someone familiar with your area can give more pertinent information!!

 

ok i got it filled out thanks everyone for your help so far. but yes i do have a plug and play test here for anything 96 and newer

 

You can attempt to clean it your self. Try this:

Theres a black 3/4" rubber hose that runs down the drivers side fender in the engine compaartment. Look near the alternator and you will find a place in that hose that you can separate it.



Separate the hose and spray some carb cleaner in the hose going to the rear of the car. Give it a nice loooooong spray and then blast the spray through system with some compressed air.

If you dont have compressed air, when the car is dead cold, do the same procedure but allow the AIR compressor to blow the spray through. When you FIRST start the car the A> I. R. pump should be blowing out a good stream of cold clean air. Start the car with that hose disconnected and see if you have that air from the pump. If so, it will force the carb cleaner through the check valves.

BC