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Not sure whether its worth it for what they cost but the underdriven pulley is like changing gears on your bike for easier peddling so to speak. It frees up a little horsepower by slowing down your accessories. 8-10 hp I believe. Every little bit counts.
Not sure whether its worth it for what they cost but the underdriven pulley is like changing gears on your bike for easier peddling so to speak. It frees up a little horsepower by slowing down your accessories. 8-10 hp I believe. Every little bit counts.
8-10 hp, so the average would be about 9 hp at $200 bucks a pop for the pulley. That equates to $22.22 / hp.
Any time I could find horsepower for only $22 per, along with longer accessory life and zero driveability issues, I would jump all over it.
The only cheaper horsepower out there is the air intake, after that it gets closer to $50 per for cam, heads, headers, tuning, etc, etc.
8-10 hp, so the average would be about 9 hp at $200 bucks a pop for the pulley. That equates to $22.22 / hp.
Uhhh..... nope, not gonna do it !
IF it does really give your 8 HP, well worth the cost. I'd bet closer to 4-5. However, the stock pulley has been known to be unreliable, so that's another reason to upgrade when you're already doing a cam. I got a Powerbond on a group buy for $140, so shop around.
That's a little risky for my taste. I'd prefer to be safe than sorry. Wouldn't want to end up stranded somewhere. I can find a better use for that money.
Comp Cams LS1-GT2-3 is a good choice for streetable power.
Duration @ .050 207/220
Valve Lift .571/.578
Rocker Arm 1.7 ratio
Centerline 118.5
As for the underdrive pulley debate:
If your going to rip down the entire engine for cam, heads, intake, it is definitely worthwhile. GM's own crankshaft pulley isn't that great anyway.
There is enough extra capacity built in to the C5 Corvette for charging. Most issues are battery related for the 1997 to 1994 models. You can also get a smaller pulley for your altenator if your worried about not keeping up - it's never been a problem with my setup.
The only place you will really notice the battery charging issue is at idle. On the road you typically have the rpms up in a range where the alternator will get plenty of turns to do its thing and put the charge back into the battery.
Replacing the pulley with a 15-20 precent underdrive is pretty much standard procedure for a head/cam install, since you're in there anyway . Full alternator output with a 20% underdrive is at about 850 rpm idle speed. With even a medium size cam, idle will be 850-950 with a good tune. So battery charging is not an issue for most cases.
need a proven recipe to make 400 hp to the wheels, without going to radical,without a stall, i have 01 c5 auto ,tpis long tubes, corsa catback, mti cold air, mti computer upgrade ,01 ls6 cam,springs, dyno 340 hp to wheels,12.5 in the quarter, pitifull 60 ft time in the 2,s , just purchase stock ls2 243 heads, I don"t want to spend much money on port work,whats a good cam thats streetable? thanks jim.