Lost round one
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 2
From: St. Clair Shores Mi
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,561
Likes: 448
From: Atlanta metro Ga.
Hold up a min.. You pinned the crank, correct? I believe you are already done. The primary reason the Tq values are so high with the stock setup is due to the fact the pulley drives the accessories from the non-keyed crank and those accessories are constantly pulling on the pulley in a direction that would loosen the bolt.
You've alleviated that stress by pinning the crank - there is no more rotational load on the bolt - now all the bolt is doing is keeping the pulley seated against the oil pump.
If you met the push-on (end of crank snout to pulley bore / lip) requirements, I would call it good, it isn't going anywhere. Don't make this more complicated than it is.
I will add that these TTY GM bolts do have a history of snapping, and 80% of those that do were during removal, not install!
You've alleviated that stress by pinning the crank - there is no more rotational load on the bolt - now all the bolt is doing is keeping the pulley seated against the oil pump.
If you met the push-on (end of crank snout to pulley bore / lip) requirements, I would call it good, it isn't going anywhere. Don't make this more complicated than it is.
I will add that these TTY GM bolts do have a history of snapping, and 80% of those that do were during removal, not install!
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; Feb 2, 2009 at 11:13 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
Dang; I've made this complicated 
The crank has been pinned, so the pulley SHOULDN'T spin.
I "BOTTOMED OUT" the pulley using the old bolt. (It was easy to feel when it bottomed on the crank throw)
If there is no longer a tenancy for the balancer to spin/slip, then, like you say, there should be no reason for the bolt to "loosen".
I do know one thing, I had the bolt in with locktight applied, and torqued to approx. 100* past 40lb, and I liked to have NEVER broke it loose
(It was definilty harder to break loose than the original bolt!)
I don't mind taking the precaution of picking up another GM bolt for $5, but it does seem like overkill to pay $28 + shipping for a new bolt IF I don't need it.
(I should have taken more physics classes)
The crank has been pinned, so the pulley SHOULDN'T spin.
I "BOTTOMED OUT" the pulley using the old bolt. (It was easy to feel when it bottomed on the crank throw)
If there is no longer a tenancy for the balancer to spin/slip, then, like you say, there should be no reason for the bolt to "loosen".
I do know one thing, I had the bolt in with locktight applied, and torqued to approx. 100* past 40lb, and I liked to have NEVER broke it loose
(It was definilty harder to break loose than the original bolt!)I don't mind taking the precaution of picking up another GM bolt for $5, but it does seem like overkill to pay $28 + shipping for a new bolt IF I don't need it.
(I should have taken more physics classes)
Last edited by Blow Torch; Feb 2, 2009 at 11:31 AM. Reason: spelling
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
Dang; I've made this complicated
The crank has been pinned, so the pulley SHOULDN'T spin.
I "BOTTOMED OUT" the pulley using the old bolt. (It was easy to feel when it bottomed on the crank throw)
If there is no longer a tenancy for the balancer to spin/slip, then, like you say, there should be no reason for the bolt to "loosen".
I do know one thing, I had the bolt in with locktight applied, and torqued to approx. 100* past 40lb, and I liked to have NEVER broke it loose (It was definilty harder to break loose than the original bolt!)
I don't mind taking the precaution of picking up another GM bolt for $5, but it does seem like overkill to pay $28 + shipping for a new bolt IF I don't need it.
(I should have taken more physics classes)
The crank has been pinned, so the pulley SHOULDN'T spin.
I "BOTTOMED OUT" the pulley using the old bolt. (It was easy to feel when it bottomed on the crank throw)
If there is no longer a tenancy for the balancer to spin/slip, then, like you say, there should be no reason for the bolt to "loosen".
I do know one thing, I had the bolt in with locktight applied, and torqued to approx. 100* past 40lb, and I liked to have NEVER broke it loose
(It was definilty harder to break loose than the original bolt!)I don't mind taking the precaution of picking up another GM bolt for $5, but it does seem like overkill to pay $28 + shipping for a new bolt IF I don't need it.
(I should have taken more physics classes)
I used a stock GM one, not an ARP, but many people swear by the ARP stuff. It seems like quality to me, but then again I had an extra brand new GM one sitting here.
