Lost round one
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
Lost round one
Well I started my crank pinning project around noon today. I FINALLY got the rack out of the way, 
pulled my underdrive pulley, installed and pinned the stock one and started reinstalling,
1st - I COULD NOT get the bolt any further than approx. 100 degrees, mostly because I had pulled the inspection cover, and had inserted a screw driver into one of the holes in the flywheel, and was afraid I was going to damage/bend it.
Next. I CAN NOT GET THE RACK BACK IN!!!
I struggled for over an hour, until it got too dark to see well (can't hold the light where you can see and wrestle with a rack
)
I have somehow got the steering shaft pointing down, and cannot get it turned up to slide in. I haven't pulled the fans, so I wounder if I need to get them out (If they're not much trouble to R&R) to see if that will give me anymore room
Any suggestions?
pulled my underdrive pulley, installed and pinned the stock one and started reinstalling,1st - I COULD NOT get the bolt any further than approx. 100 degrees, mostly because I had pulled the inspection cover, and had inserted a screw driver into one of the holes in the flywheel, and was afraid I was going to damage/bend it.
Next. I CAN NOT GET THE RACK BACK IN!!!
I struggled for over an hour, until it got too dark to see well (can't hold the light where you can see and wrestle with a rack) I have somehow got the steering shaft pointing down, and cannot get it turned up to slide in. I haven't pulled the fans, so I wounder if I need to get them out (If they're not much trouble to R&R) to see if that will give me anymore room
Any suggestions?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 427
Likes: 2
From: joplin mo
when i pinned mine i had to move the brake control module as well as remove the fans. getting the rack back in takes time , pretty tight quarters as i'am sure you already know. just take your time you'll get there
john
john
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
Well I started my crank pinning project around noon today. I FINALLY got the rack out of the way, pulled my underdrive pulley, installed and pinned the stock one and started reinstalling,
1st - I COULD NOT get the bolt any further than approx. 100 degrees, mostly because I had pulled the inspection cover, and had inserted a screw driver into one of the holes in the flywheel, and was afraid I was going to damage/bend it.
Next. I CAN NOT GET THE RACK BACK IN!!! I struggled for over an hour, until it got too dark to see well (can't hold the light where you can see and wrestle with a rack)
I have somehow got the steering shaft pointing down, and cannot get it turned up to slide in. I haven't pulled the fans, so I wounder if I need to get them out (If they're not much trouble to R&R) to see if that will give me anymore room
Any suggestions?
pulled my underdrive pulley, installed and pinned the stock one and started reinstalling,1st - I COULD NOT get the bolt any further than approx. 100 degrees, mostly because I had pulled the inspection cover, and had inserted a screw driver into one of the holes in the flywheel, and was afraid I was going to damage/bend it.
Next. I CAN NOT GET THE RACK BACK IN!!!
I struggled for over an hour, until it got too dark to see well (can't hold the light where you can see and wrestle with a rack) I have somehow got the steering shaft pointing down, and cannot get it turned up to slide in. I haven't pulled the fans, so I wounder if I need to get them out (If they're not much trouble to R&R) to see if that will give me anymore room
Any suggestions?
Finish the balancer properly..or face possible consequences later. 140 degrees is 140 degrees...not 100, 120 or 130......
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 427
Likes: 2
From: joplin mo
i used a 24 inch breakover and the handle off my floorjack .car in 4th gear the ebrake engaged and rear wheels blocked
john
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
I put a couple of drops (not much) of med. locktight on the bolt threads, and I even noticed that the "red coating" on the crank bolt heads was squishing out Will I damage the flexplate by holding it where I' am? I pulled the approx. 3x4" cover from the back side, and put a large screw driver through the large hole in the flywheel and when it turns, it wedges against the side of the case when I turn the bolt. It seemed like a lot of torque against something so thin.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
The reasons I stopped were, when I was at 90*, I was over 175lbs (my torque wrench limit) and one of the vendors posted that he had NEVER been able to get past 120* I put a couple of drops (not much) of med. locktight on the bolt threads, and I even noticed that the "red coating" on the crank bolt heads was squishing out
Will I damage the flexplate by holding it where I' am? I pulled the approx. 3x4" cover from the back side, and put a large screw driver through the large hole in the flywheel and when it turns, it wedges against the side of the case when I turn the bolt. It seemed like a lot of torque against something so thin.
I put a couple of drops (not much) of med. locktight on the bolt threads, and I even noticed that the "red coating" on the crank bolt heads was squishing out Will I damage the flexplate by holding it where I' am? I pulled the approx. 3x4" cover from the back side, and put a large screw driver through the large hole in the flywheel and when it turns, it wedges against the side of the case when I turn the bolt. It seemed like a lot of torque against something so thin.
wish I could help with the steering, I dropped the front cradle, which took 30 min down 30 min up.. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
If it's not going to hurt anything to hold the flywheel the way I am, I can get the bolt around. I guess the fact that I've broken off more bolts, sockets, and extensions than I can count makes me nervous when I tighten something this tight on this car
I'm going to take the top cap off the top of the radiator to see if it will give me just a little more room to rotate the shaft
I guess the fact that I've broken off more bolts, sockets, and extensions than I can count makes me nervous when I tighten something this tight on this carI'm going to take the top cap off the top of the radiator to see if it will give me just a little more room to rotate the shaft
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
If it's not going to hurt anything to hold the flywheel the way I am, I can get the bolt around. I guess the fact that I've broken off more bolts, sockets, and extensions than I can count makes me nervous when I tighten something this tight on this car
I'm going to take the top cap off the top of the radiator to see if it will give me just a little more room to rotate the shaft
I guess the fact that I've broken off more bolts, sockets, and extensions than I can count makes me nervous when I tighten something this tight on this carI'm going to take the top cap off the top of the radiator to see if it will give me just a little more room to rotate the shaft
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
So even though I didn't torque it all the way, I can't just remove it, clean and reapply locktight, and torque all the way?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 0
- Installed balancer and seated completely using the old bolt or some other method
- installed new bolt and torqued to 100* past 140ftlbs
- ran the engine with it improperly torqued
If you're planning on backing the bolt out - you need a new one.
I torqued the old one to) 240ftlbs to seat the pulley, so don't worry too much about breaking a new one
Be safe on this, esp if you have $$ into a underdrive aftermarket one like you and I do, if that thing spins on the crank or starts to wobble even a little you've got a recipe for issues if you don't replace it after that.Keep grinding away, you'll get it done and be thrilled with the confidence of having it pinned.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
I'm not sure you need to remove it, but lets check, so far you have done how many of the following:
If you're planning on backing the bolt out - you need a new one.
I torqued the old one to) 240ftlbs to seat the pulley, so don't worry too much about breaking a new one Be safe on this, esp if you have $$ into a underdrive aftermarket one like you and I do, if that thing spins on the crank or starts to wobble even a little you've got a recipe for issues if you don't replace it after that.
Keep grinding away, you'll get it done and be thrilled with the confidence of having it pinned.
- Installed balancer and seated completely using the old bolt or some other method
- installed new bolt and torqued to 100* past 140ftlbs
- ran the engine with it improperly torqued
If you're planning on backing the bolt out - you need a new one.
I torqued the old one to) 240ftlbs to seat the pulley, so don't worry too much about breaking a new one
Be safe on this, esp if you have $$ into a underdrive aftermarket one like you and I do, if that thing spins on the crank or starts to wobble even a little you've got a recipe for issues if you don't replace it after that.Keep grinding away, you'll get it done and be thrilled with the confidence of having it pinned.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
Installed balancer and seated completely using the old bolt or some other method (Check)installed new bolt and torqued to 100* past 140ftlbs (check)
ran the engine with it improperly torqued (NO)
I am ordering a new one today, and will start again next weekend. I don't want to take any chances with breaking the bolt, and I DANG sure don't want to take the rack out again
I'm really just anxious about getting the rack back in place. It is really giving me a fit but I'll just give it another try again next weekend.
I will say this, after the problem I had removing the new/old (just installed) bolt, I don't believe there was a snowballs chance of it coming out. I used the breaker bar/pipe extension method, and didn't think it was going to break loose (Keep in mind I've been weightlifting for over 20yrs and bench well over 400lbs)
I appreciate the advice on this, and it would be really tough to get some of these projects done without you guys that have been there before giving tips and helping out
Thanks
ran the engine with it improperly torqued (NO)
I am ordering a new one today, and will start again next weekend.
I don't want to take any chances with breaking the bolt, and I DANG sure don't want to take the rack out again I'm really just anxious about getting the rack back in place. It is really giving me a fit but I'll just give it another try again next weekend.I will say this, after the problem I had removing the new/old (just installed) bolt, I don't believe there was a snowballs chance of it coming out. I used the breaker bar/pipe extension method, and didn't think it was going to break loose (Keep in mind I've been weightlifting for over 20yrs and bench well over 400lbs
)I appreciate the advice on this, and it would be really tough to get some of these projects done without you guys that have been there before giving tips and helping out
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 283
Likes: 2
From: Troy MI
If you are going to start over - use an ARP bolt. It is easier to install - there is a torque setting not an angle rotation and you can reuse it. The cost is about $25. That is very cheap considering what you are going through.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
What part # do I order?
Last edited by Blow Torch; Feb 2, 2009 at 10:06 AM. Reason: spelling
