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Car stalls intermittently need help.

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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 07:22 PM
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Default Car stalls intermittently need help.

My 2002 Z06 has been stalling, usually when I am pulling out or backing out of a spot or my garage, about once a week or once every two weeks. Usually it is when the car is cold, but it has happened when the car has been warm also.

After three or four stalls the car then runs fine. My mechanic has not been able to track down the cause - so I am desperate at this point.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am in SoCal BTW.

Thanks

Steve
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Hirohawa
My 2002 Z06 has been stalling, usually when I am pulling out or backing out of a spot or my garage, about once a week or once every two weeks. Usually it is when the car is cold, but it has happened when the car has been warm also.

After three or four stalls the car then runs fine. My mechanic has not been able to track down the cause - so I am desperate at this point.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am in SoCal BTW.

Thanks

Steve
What has your mechanic done in an attempt to isolate the issue?
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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Have you ever seen a message on the DIC that says :PULL KEY WAIT 10 SEC" ?????

Thats one thing that can cause it to happen. Your ignition switch isn't properly reading the small resistor pellet on the key which causes a security issue. When that happens if the BCM senses wheel motion, it cuts fuel and kills the engine.

Look for that message. Do you have a Column Lock By-pass module?

Have you ever read and cleared all your DTCs?

I recommend that you read and post the DTCs. If there area ton of them, clear all of them and get a fresh set when the problems pops up again.

BC
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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I have done the CLB twice. Haven't got the "PULL KEY WAIT 10 SEC" in over a year (when I had the CLB addressed) and never when this happens.

How do you clear DTCs?

Thanks

Steve

Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Have you ever seen a message on the DIC that says :PULL KEY WAIT 10 SEC" ?????

Thats one thing that can cause it to happen. Your ignition switch isn't properly reading the small resistor pellet on the key which causes a security issue. When that happens if the BCM senses wheel motion, it cuts fuel and kills the engine.

Look for that message. Do you have a Column Lock By-pass module?

Have you ever read and cleared all your DTCs?

I recommend that you read and post the DTCs. If there area ton of them, clear all of them and get a fresh set when the problems pops up again.

BC
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #6  
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Is it only stalling when at idle or making tight maneuvers loading up the engine with the brakes and power steering pump? If so, it could be as simple as a dirty throttle body.
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