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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Power Window Motor Thoughts
Okay, I know now that most likely my window problems are in the motor. I replaced the window relay in the control module and tried the window. The window would not move up or down. My next bit of troubleshooting involved reading voltage at the motor connector. I unplugged the motor and read the voltage at the connector. I got battery voltage at the connector in the up and down direction. So I know all of this is good.
I want to remove just the motor from the assembly. At least this way I can call it either the motor has an open winding or a bad brush or something else.
I guess I could remove the whole window regulator but I still want to get into the motor and flush it with some electrical contact cleaner just to satisfy myself that I am not spending money on a new regulator assembly for no reason.
Has anyone removed just the motor? This is my daily driver so I have to have the window up. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Well, I clamped the window in the up position so it would not fall. I loosened the screws that hold the motor to the regulator and pulled out on the motor. The motor would only move so far outward. I worked the motor back and forth several times to no avail. It would not come out but about a quarter of an inch. Just for kicks I read the motor winding resistance with my Fluke and it tells me the resistance is about half an ohm. Seems pretty low to me. I tighten the screws down and give the motor a few good whacks with a BMFH for good measure. Try the window and it still does not move. I press the down button and let it lock in the down position and give the motor another good whack and it starts working!!! I have to move quick to get my hands out of the way. Good thing this is not the same old type that is my 70. I may have had some collateral damage to myself. Anyway, the window is working for now and I am happy for the mean time. Hopefully this will last a little while for me.
Still if anyone has any ideas about removing the motor please let me know what your thoughts are. I had an idea the motor was not the problem. There has to be something in there that tells the motor that it is either all the way up or all the way down and to stop running. I am thinking this is what is causing my problem.
Any thoughts, like I said are greatly appreciated.
There is a lot of info on this problem, try a search.
GM window motors have a very poor batting average, and I have replaced them in my Firbird, Camaro, and even one on my C5 when it was new!
Someone did a survey awhile ago and it was pityfull! So, if its giving you a problem you may as well replace it or its going to let you down at a worse time.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Since 91 I have had 6 new Chevy Trucks and not once have I had problems with the window motors. You would think that the motors would be the same throughout the Chevy line and they would last. One of the trucks I kept until 140k and the only thing I ever change on it was normal wear and tear items.
I have removed a motor, cleaned it, and reinstalled it on the drive assembly, but it is not easy.
You need to open up the gearbox that contains a spool with the steel cable wrapped around it to get the worm drive gear out and disengage the motor.
The difficult part is when you put the motor back into the gearbox. You have to keep the cable on the spool and get the drive gear back in the right position to close the housing. I went through all that, and the motor worked for awhile, but eventually it quit.
I finally just replaced the whole window regulator unit, and have not had any more problems.
The drive cables were in good condition, but the motor must get where it has a dead spot on the armature, like I have had happen on starter motors. You can tap them, and maybe they will work, but if the engine tends to stop in the same position, it will happen again.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Remove the door panel, the sound blocker does not need to be removed unless you are removing the whole regulator system. Also remove the Bose speaker to get to the motor connection. I swung the hammer to hit the motor through the speaker opening.
Here is the motor connection that I undid to check the motor and voltage from the switch. You can check the voltage at the brown and blue wires in the connector. Polarity does not matter. You can also see the bolts for the motor mounts. They are Torx T25.
I loosened the motor to gain access to the motor connections and to loosen the motor mounting bolts.
Here are the pins on the back of door panel that hold the panel to the door. You can also see the clips that hold the panel to the door at the top. This gave me a fit getting the door off because I did not understand how the door panel came off. There are 3 across the top. Now after seeing the clips it makes a little more sense.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
My window motor stopped again. So,this past weekend, I drilled a couple of small holes in the area near the end of the motor and flushed it out with some RC motor cleaner. I ran the motor up and down about 20 times. I am hoping this helps some. I just wonder has anyone taken a motor apart and been able to put it back together. I am sure the brushes come out when you pull it apart.
My window motor stopped again. So,this past weekend, I drilled a couple of small holes in the area near the end of the motor and flushed it out with some RC motor cleaner. I ran the motor up and down about 20 times. I am hoping this helps some. I just wonder has anyone taken a motor apart and been able to put it back together. I am sure the brushes come out when you pull it apart.
Thanks for the link. This is an excellent link. When my quits again, for the 3rd time, I will be taking the motor apart and trying this fix. But so far, the window is working nicely.