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Oil Pressure Sending Unit

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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Has anybody found a pigtail setup to extend the wire connector to the sending unit when you use the relocate kit? Looks like you need to cut the connector from the harness and splice in some wire to do this. I'd prefer to justs add a pigtail.

Found a part in Rock Auto that Standard Motor Works said would work S619 but it is only the male end. looking for the female piece that is on the sending unit. Has it been done before ?
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Kens86
Has anybody found a pigtail setup to extend the wire connector to the sending unit when you use the relocate kit? Looks like you need to cut the connector from the harness and splice in some wire to do this. I'd prefer to justs add a pigtail.

Found a part in Rock Auto that Standard Motor Works said would work S619 but it is only the male end. looking for the female piece that is on the sending unit. Has it been done before ?


Why would you need that? What are you trying to do? You still have a fully assembled sender when you relocate. You're just plumbing an oil line to a different location and fitting.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 05:30 PM
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Did you clean oil off of connector?

I would NOT use teflon tape on a sensor. I thought they came with "thread sealant" already on them?
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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Ken, no need to extend the connector. You simply mount the remote sensor on the rearmost coil bracket with a rubber insulated clamp. Fits fine.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Wcsinx -There is not alot of extra wire back there. The relocate kit from DPE shows to mount it it on second coil pack.

Check out the website and the video. The pictures do not have the unit actually hooked up, the video shows a wire loom going to the sending unit and the kit comes with a pigtail extender to splice in. http://dpecorvettes.com/gpage7.html

I guess once I have all the parts I can fit this as Mark C5 recommends on the first coil pack.

Just looking for options.

Oldvette - did not use teflon tape sending unit had red sealant already on it.

Thanks for the inputs.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Here is an update. Got home and started the car and i get 53 PSI on the oil pressure gauge but now I get a "Service Engine Soon" and "check tire pressure monitoring system" The only codes that keep coming up are history code U1096 and U1064. Do you think the sending unit is shorting out. We need some help here.

Last edited by Kens86; Feb 17, 2009 at 09:38 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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just a guess but make sure the housing is grounded.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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edit below

Last edited by Kens86; Feb 17, 2009 at 09:37 PM.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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Let it warm up and once we got to temperature it went to zero oil pressure. Turn it off and re-start and we are at 32PSI. Let it run and the pressure drops off slowly. I'm guessing the short in the sending unit is heat related giving me all the other stuff. Cleared the codes and nothing is coming back. All the codes were historys. Checked all the connections I removed and reset them and they are tight.
Going to buy the DPE relocate unit and do the job again hopefully for the last time!
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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PM sent. Sounds like a heat problem to me.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:37 PM
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Starting to sound like you don't have the correct sender for this car.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Kens86
Wcsinx -There is not alot of extra wire back there. The relocate kit from DPE shows to mount it it on second coil pack.
Oh nevermind, I understand what you're saying now. You want to go male plug -> female plug -> extended wire -> male plug -> female sender. With as many electrical gremlins as these cars already have, I'd personally try to minimize as many pigtail connectors as possible. I suppose you could dremel off the female plug from the old sender and macgyver something up if you wanted to go that route. I think you should just solder in new wire, liquid tape it, and call it day.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldvetter
I would NOT use teflon tape on a sensor. I thought they came with "thread sealant" already on them?
My Borg Warner sender came with a thread sealant already on it. (reddish brown kinda goop) The factory service manual said to use some specific GM part # sealant but looking at the sender it already had that stuff on it. So I just torqued it down and no leaks.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Oh nevermind, I understand what you're saying now. You want to go male plug -> female plug -> extended wire -> male plug -> female sender. With as many electrical gremlins as these cars already have, I'd personally try to minimize as many pigtail connectors as possible. I suppose you could dremel off the female plug from the old sender and macgyver something up if you wanted to go that route. I think you should just solder in new wire, liquid tape it, and call it day.
So you would rather hack up the factory wiring "MacGyver" style, than use a factory inline connector? Inline connectors are used all over the car. Extension harnesses and inline connections are used to adapt everything from LS2 throttle bodies, and other extension harnesses when doing LSX swaps. No issue here.

Dremel off the sender connector...........silly........
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
My Borg Warner sender came with a thread sealant already on it. (reddish brown kinda goop) The factory service manual said to use some specific GM part # sealant but looking at the sender it already had that stuff on it. So I just torqued it down and no leaks.
The service manual only calls for sealant on the sensor if you are reinstalling the OLD sensor....read again below....

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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:42 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
So you would rather hack up the factory wiring "MacGyver" style, than use a factory inline connector?
A properly soldered and sealed connection is much more reliable than a pigtail harness. Ask Bill Curlee if you don't want to take my word for it.

Inline connectors are used all over the car.
Yep, and connectivity and ground problems are very common with these cars. Your point is what?

Dremel off the sender connector...........silly........
Did you actually read what I posted or are you just picking out random words? I suggested using the female plug from the old sender to construct a pigtail harness out of it. Done properly, it wouldn't look any different than any other pigtail harness you might buy aftermarket.

Originally Posted by lucky131969
The service manual only calls for sealant on the sensor if you are reinstalling the OLD sensor....read again below....
Correct, but that is making the assumption the new one already has it applied because you're replacing it with a GM part. If you are purchasing an aftermarket sender such as the Borg Warner part that may or may not be the case.

Last edited by wcsinx; Feb 18, 2009 at 10:45 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
A properly soldered and sealed connection is much more reliable than a pigtail harness. Ask Bill Curlee if you don't want to take my word for it.
While I respect Bill's experience in every way, I can default to my own military, commercial aircraft, and automotive industry design/test experience that a inline connection can be just as reliable as an soldered connection.

Originally Posted by wcsinx
Yep, and connectivity and ground problems are very common with these cars. Your point is what?
Simple. Factory automotive connectors used in exposed environments are designed with seals to prevent fluid infiltration and contamination. The Delphi connectors I used on my engine controller designs were subject to extreme testing to include: 3-axis vibration, temperature cycling, heated to 105 C, then immersed in -40 C salt water, battery acid, brake/hydraulic,fuel,oil, dust, and 1200 psi water spray.

The splice packs used on C5s are not sealed at all, which makes them subject to corrosion. The exposed grounds are not covered or sealed either. It's a poor design, but it is what it is.



Originally Posted by wcsinx
Did you actually read what I posted or are you just picking out random words? I suggested using the female plug from the old sender to construct a pigtail harness out of it. Done properly, it wouldn't look any different than any other pigtail harness you might buy aftermarket.
And how is that? Do you have an injection mold in your garage? I don't. What do you propose, just using a big glob of RTV on the area you cut off with the dremel? Yeah, that would look the same

Originally Posted by wcsinx
Correct, but that is making the assumption the new one already has it applied because you're replacing it with a GM part. If you are purchasing an aftermarket sender such as the Borg Warner part that may or may not be the case.
Just being specific here. People use these threads as guides for maintence, and someone will put sealant over sealant, not knowing better. I have not seen a factory replacement that did not have sealant on the threads yet.

Last edited by lucky131969; Feb 18, 2009 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
The service manual only calls for sealant on the sensor if you are reinstalling the OLD sensor....read again below....

I can't help but wonder with all the replacement failures, is everyone using the proper J tool to install the new sender or just a socket that happens to appear to fit?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 12:15 PM
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mmmm...."J" tool....?????
.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lil vette
mmmm...."J" tool....?????
.
Read post above.....
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