Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 187
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From: Orange Park Fl
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Frustrating day!. Just spent 4 hours replacing the original oil sending unit that failed reading 130 PSI. Got the car back together and started it. Oil pressure sits strong at 48 PSI. Go out to get gas and the oil pressure goes to zero and stays there! No ticking , engine is fine. Everything is correctly hooked up. Brand new Echlin unit from NAPA failed in less than an hour! Used a digital torque wrench for the entire procedure so no over tightening. Anybody else been there?
Last edited by Kens86; Feb 16, 2009 at 06:27 PM. Reason: error in title
Pro
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 650
Likes: 4
From: Pittsburg Ca.
Frustrating day!. Just spent 4 hours replacing the original oil sending unit that failed reading 130 PSI. Got the car back together and started it. Oil pressure sits strong at 48 PSI. Go out to get gas and the oil pressure goes to zero and stays there! No ticking , engine is fine. Everything is correctly hooked up. Brand new Echlin unit from NAPA failed in less than an hour! Used a digital torque wrench for the entire procedure so no over tightening. Anybody else been there?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park Fl
Its a brass one. So was the one I removed. I Just picked up another one and compared it to the old one. The old unit has a larger orifice and is 48mm tall. The new one has a small orifice and is 56.25 mm tall. The part is what NAPA Call out for it. It appears to fit okay and not hit the bottom of the manifold.
Has anyone else used the different height units?
Has anyone else used the different height units?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I heard that some brass replacements were starting to show up but so far till now, haven't heard of any failures of them. The sticky at the top has lots of information on the senders. The usual is the cheap alluminum ones dying within hours to days. In my case, the new one lasted about 2 weeks. After I relocated it, no more issue.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 62
From: Columbia SC
I am in the process of doing mine now. I was going to wait but I am putting LG Street Series System in and it calls for an Air Tube change which requires the intake to be moved forward to get at the air tube so I am going to do the oil pressure sensor now.
The sensor I bought is a brass one. It is a BWD form O'Riley Auto Parts and the part number is S4202.
The sensor I bought is a brass one. It is a BWD form O'Riley Auto Parts and the part number is S4202.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 8
From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
When mine went out I opted for the Buick sensor and remote mount. It's a costly way to fix the problem but I figured it had two very attractive advantages. If it goes out again it's only a five minute fix. Remote mounting puts the sensor in a cooler area of the engine compartment (I think) and lessens the chance of a failure (I think). It's only been about three months so far but all is good. I also do not recall seeing any posts of anyone having a failure after remote mounting.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Its a brass one. So was the one I removed. I Just picked up another one and compared it to the old one. The old unit has a larger orifice and is 48mm tall. The new one has a small orifice and is 56.25 mm tall. The part is what NAPA Call out for it. It appears to fit okay and not hit the bottom of the manifold.
Has anyone else used the different height units?
Has anyone else used the different height units?
Last edited by lucky131969; Feb 16, 2009 at 10:09 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: BEST Corn-Nation
2015 C5 of the Year Winner
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Alexandria Northern Virginia
I have no idea how I would post it here....but for those of you adventurous types.....
I made an AutoCAD template you can print off on your computer and then lay over the firewall/wiper trough to drill a hole in the right place. Mine was the donor car....drilled a few, well, er, not so perfect location holes...
Anyway, if you want it just pm me. It requires the wiper arms and the plastic under them to come off but then you just drill in and bam, you're there. Beats the tail off of pulling the intake.
Cassidy
I made an AutoCAD template you can print off on your computer and then lay over the firewall/wiper trough to drill a hole in the right place. Mine was the donor car....drilled a few, well, er, not so perfect location holes...
Anyway, if you want it just pm me. It requires the wiper arms and the plastic under them to come off but then you just drill in and bam, you're there. Beats the tail off of pulling the intake.
Cassidy
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I got the brass Borg Warner part from Advance Auto for $38. It's only been a couple weeks, but it hasn't died on me yet. It also seems to be more accurate than the stock unit. I can blip the throttle and watch the pressure rise pretty quickly. The old one never did that. It was a much slower response.
If you cut the cowl, I found that you actually only have to remove the passenger side wiper arm. The cowl has a ton of flex in it, so I just propped it up on the passenger side and went to work.
If you cut the cowl, I found that you actually only have to remove the passenger side wiper arm. The cowl has a ton of flex in it, so I just propped it up on the passenger side and went to work.
