Problem:

1.) Crane cam 210/218 .531/.531 on 112 lsa
power range 1000-6000 rpm

2.) CompCam (Tri-Power) 202/212 .507/.500 on 116 lsa
power range 1000-6000 rpm

3.) Crane cam 216/224 .551/.551 on 115 lsa
power range 1500-6000 rpm

How does the CompCam, with less "duration and less lift," have the same "Power Range?" ( Will either of the two 1000 rpm - 6000 rpm PRange cams give more Torque and/or HP over the other at some pint in the curve?)

Where the no #3 Crane cam's PRange is 500 rpm less at the bottom, than the other two, how can one derive a benefit from this cam, over the other two with their wider band? Is the latter cam's nonexistent (1000 rpm - 1500 rpm) part of the curve simply lost, or does it come into play with higher Torque/HP somewhere in its 1500 rpm - 6000 rpm range?

Please, if responding, pretend that you are contributing to an "Understanding Cams for Dummies" chapter. I don't possess the necessary technical foundation to comprehend esoteric professional terms of art.

Now that I have my choice well narrowed down to 3 cams, my requirement is for a 2001 ls1. Up front is a Breathless Perf air intake, backed by a ported Throttle Body. Beyond that we’ll be looking at Dart 205 heads with PSI 1511 springs, and exited by means of B&B shorties. Mated to (temporary) stock pup cats is a Bassani X-Pipe, followed by Magnaflow mufflers.

The nature of these cams pretty much tells that I wish to continue to use my car as a daily driver, with whatever torque and power I can possibly gain, but w/o exceeding 6000 rpm, and sans a car that will idle like a paint can mixer. I’d like a mere hint of a cam, that will sting like a scorpion if provoked.

Thanks for all input. I’ve asked similar questions here, ad nausea, I know, but finally I have all major components in hand (and in place), with which to make an informed decision.

Regards, GRT

 

you should narrow your choice to proven LSx cams. theres no need to guess if it will work or not.

start with the tuner shops, ECS, Englandgreen, Cartek, Vette Doctors, RPM, Thunderracing, etc etc etc

 

I have used both cams #1 and #3. I would rather see you use the #3 cam but with a tighter LSA and with a Crane (LSHS intake lobe) and (HR5 exhaust lobe) since you will be using Dart heads. Heres what I am thinking. 218/224 .590/.585 114+5 or even bigger if you want. A 22X/22X 114 cams would work awesome to.

Joe

 

Good article by David Vizard that will help explain cams a bit, at least to get you acquainted with them.

One of the tried and true cams for the LS1 is the 224/224 Thunder Racing cam. A little more duration than you are looking at but a good running cam.

 

Maybe you should look into a stealth cam that Thunder Racing sells. Its called the CheaTr, from their site.

Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
"CheaTR" - 214/230 .601/.575 117 LSA. Off Idle-6800 RPM Power Band. Broad power range. Works well with stock exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters. Stock like idle. Minor tuning required on automatic transmission cars. Responds very well to nitrous. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended. Double valve springs and titanium retainers required for this cam.

 

Too much lift for the valve springs and installed setup. That cam is a nice cam, but very hard on the valve train.

 

Katech has 20% off right now, here is their high torque cam (on a 112 LSA). Link

 

Ah, I missed the spring set up he wanted to use.

 

c5-pewter, checkout my signature. I have been running cam #3 for three years now. No issues whatsoever. Car idles at 700 rpm and has a slight lope. Still manage to get 27 mpg highway.

 

Some good recommendations above but, keep in mind those cams pushing 224* duration will probably benefit/need a computer tune. #1 and #2 technically won't but #3 may need a tune -- Vettenuts can best answer this question as I believe he once had this cam installed. So, one should add the cost of and tether to a custom tune as you go beyond these modest duration but very good performing (for your goals) cams.

Also, since you didn't indicate living in an emissions test state, congratulations on being able to use an LSA smaller than 114. Not having this limitation allows the increased torque from whatever upgraded cam you choose to come on at a lower RPM which most certainly benefits a daily driver. A substantial parameter to consider prior to placing an order. Best of luck...

A1

 

check out tsp 228r cam. 228/228 .588/.588 choice of lsa. or they have a 224cam and a 220 cam. they run about $380.

 

a ThunderRacing 224 is a GREAT cam. I went with the TexasSpeed 228R and i LOVE it

 

I see you are close to ECS, call them up, they have been there and done it thousands of times, tell them what you want, what your goals and usage for your vette is, and they will make you HAPPY CAMPER (and while you are at it let them do the install and give you an expert dyno tune to maximize the power gained from your new cam)!

 

Just a point to keep in mind, and something that affected my choice, is that lower lift cams negate the need to periodically change out the springs. I thought that would be a PITA and didn't want to worry about breaking springs. Love my CompCam XR269HR. Great pull all the way though...you will love it. Give CompCam a call and talk with one of their reps. It appears to be what you're looking for.
Ed

 

I'd say go with the tried and true 224 cam on a 114 lsa. 580ish lift so your upgraded springs will last quite awhile. Great power and will still be a breeze to tune those cams you are looking at are imo a little too small to ' sting ' when provoked and you don't wanna be dissapointed. What ever you do doug at ECS is the man for tunes

 

The published figures rarely give the “ramp rate” and that can vary wildly – when looking at cams insist on knowing the duration at .200 lift as well as the .050 lift. Much easier to tell which cam will is larger – hint – cams with the same duration, same rocker arm ratio, but higher valve lifts have faster ramps.


Based on the info above:

► # 3 Cam will produce the most overall torque.

► # 1 Cam will produce its peak torque earlier than the other two

► # 2 Cam is weaker than an ’02 Z06 cam






The 500 RPM difference at the bottom is essentially stating that the other two cams are near identical to the factory cams – i.e., they produce excellent power right off idle, giving you, the buyer, some idea of cam “size”. It’s really an outdated means to describe today’s cams – but it’s been in the industry forever.






Tried to do that – hope it helps



If you are going to buy one of the above the hands down winner is #3 -




Good luck!

 

I think all 3 are too small. You can go bigger, and still have great drivability. It's a big job/expense to just get a tiny improvement. Get a 224/228 @ 114+4.

 

Looks like the Crane cams are out as they just went bankrupt