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Well not really a can but you get the idea. It's not as nice as some of the forum vendors cans but it looks like it would provide the same function. Has anyone tried this? does it look like it will work?
It's about 50 bucks I'm just wondering if it's worth it.
Be very wary about using a filter that has a polycarbonate body. Those are typically rated for a maximum temp of only 125F and the blowby gasses that come from your engine can easily exceed 170F.
Be very wary about using a filter that has a polycarbonate body. Those are typically rated for a maximum temp of only 125F and the blowby gasses that come from your engine can easily exceed 170F.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Dave68
Be very wary about using a filter that has a polycarbonate body. Those are typically rated for a maximum temp of only 125F and the blowby gasses that come from your engine can easily exceed 170F.
I'd stay away from that one.
molten vett: Listen to this man. Dave is THE catch can guru on this forum. He knows of what he speaks, and it goes FAR beyond just knowledge of the temp rating of the materials being used in the construction. Trust me.
Thanks, Lonestar! I'd like to say a few more things about that type of filter. It is well known among filter gurus that in a vacuum system, the outgoing air should be separated from the collected liquids via the filter. This is why I've come to like the flow path that is common to that type of filter. I don't like the body material, but those filters ARE available with zinc bodies, which as an assembly can take 200 degrees F. I don't want Molten to think that there are no inexpensive solutions. There are, but one downside besides not seeing the fluid is the capacity of the "bowl". It's fairly small. When you have a few minutes, check out my article.
It will get more detailed as time goes on and I am finding out that efficiently filtering synthetic oil under conditions common to our engines is not easy.
Thanks, Lonestar! I'd like to say a few more things about that type of filter. It is well known among filter gurus that in a vacuum system, the outgoing air should be separated from the collected liquids via the filter. This is why I've come to like the flow path that is common to that type of filter. I don't like the body material, but those filters ARE available with zinc bodies, which as an assembly can take 200 degrees F. I don't want Molten to think that there are no inexpensive solutions. There are, but one downside besides not seeing the fluid is the capacity of the "bowl". It's fairly small. When you have a few minutes, check out my article.
It will get more detailed as time goes on and I am finding out that efficiently filtering synthetic oil under conditions common to our engines is not easy.
Thanks for the info. so your saying it's a good design but it's the bowl matrial that's a concern?
Be very wary about using a filter that has a polycarbonate body. Those are typically rated for a maximum temp of only 125F and the blowby gasses that come from your engine can easily exceed 170F.
I'd stay away from that one.
Actually, polycarbonate is one of the more temperature resistant polymers with a melting point of 300 to 500 degrees depending on formulation. It is the polymer used in supersonic jet canopies that routinely reach temperatures far higher than engine coolant and oil temps due to air friction at high speed. I wouldn't worry about the can if it is polycarbonate.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by cruisemon
Actually, polycarbonate is one of the more temperature resistant polymers with a melting point of 300 to 500 degrees depending on formulation. It is the polymer used in supersonic jet canopies that routinely reach temperatures far higher than engine coolant and oil temps due to air friction at high speed. I wouldn't worry about the can if it is polycarbonate.
Charlie
That variable, plus I think it is reasonable to assume a filter manufacturing company that is offering to sell their product with price/value in mind, is not going to be using "aerospace" grade plastics, make it unlikely to be a higher temp grade. Wall thickness will have some effect on longevity as well, I think. Some make them thicker and some don't. Just too many variables for me that are so easily solved by going metal.
The combination of the materials factor, plus the relatively small capacity of the poly units, makes the metal bodied, larger capacity units out there today MUCH more attractive and durable. If you add the function of a true coalescing filter combined with a well made catch-can, that is a very good system. Dave's research has shown that oil vapor is one of the hardest things to stop, and that's where a coalescing filter comes in.
I am using an AMW catch-can with a separate coalescing filter mounted in-line and the interior of my manifold is the driest it's ever been.
The filter you have shown looks to me like a standard water separation filter for a small air compressor. Check Walmart or Sears where they sell air compressor accessories, and you will find the filter for a lot less than $50.
The filter you have shown looks to me like a standard water separation filter for a small air compressor. Check Walmart or Sears where they sell air compressor accessories, and you will find the filter for a lot less than $50.
Dave68 and LoneStar are correct with their facts and I would also add the location of the oil catch tank is instrumental in getting the most effective function .
I am a stickler in eliminating oil and moisture from the LSx engines. I have three C5ives (M/Y 2000 & 2001). I run two modified CCA/Mike Norris"catch cans" , one particulate filter and one with a coalescing filter mounted to the passengers side radiator support. Mounted low as to allow gravity to also work for me.
Actually, polycarbonate is one of the more temperature resistant polymers with a melting point of 300 to 500 degrees depending on formulation. It is the polymer used in supersonic jet canopies that routinely reach temperatures far higher than engine coolant and oil temps due to air friction at high speed. I wouldn't worry about the can if it is polycarbonate.
Charlie
It is not the melting temperature that is the issue; it's the temperature at which the material can creep, allowing an o-ring or gasket seal to decompress. The other thing about polycarbonate that is a bit unnerving is its susceptability to crazing from various chemicals which may be found in blowby gases.
Damn.. I purchased that catch can a while ago without thinking that it would give me an issues.
That sucks.. is it better to remove it until I get a better one or am I ok leaving it on?
I don't think any damage would occur quickly, but you should plan to replace it with one that has a zinc or aluminum body.
Dave68 and LoneStar are correct with their facts and I would also add the location of the oil catch tank is instrumental in getting the most effective function .
I am a stickler in eliminating oil and moisture from the LSx engines. I have three C5ives (M/Y 2000 & 2001). I run two modified CCA/Mike Norris"catch cans" , one particulate filter and one with a coalescing filter mounted to the passengers side radiator support. Mounted low as to allow gravity to also work for me.