great info thanx

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread but does anyone know where to source the GM plugs for this harness to eliminate cutting? I know a few forum vendors get them and make their own harnesses. I can't see paying $70 for a flasher and 2 plugs honestly. I have the flasher but I need to obtain the plugs. I've gotten a ton of weatherpack plugs and even some GM pigtails from I think it was Del City but I cannot recall as it's been years since I've needed them. Anyone have any input? Anyone have a GM part # or casting # of that flasher plug?

Dave

 

You don't have to cut any wires!! You just need to tap into them with some sort of wire taps like these that I prefer or the ones from Autozone and Advanced.

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

 

Thanks, not a fan of doing things that way as I feel that isn't a proper way to wire anything. I know the OEM plug is out there just need to find out where.

Dave

 

I have every bit of my Nitrous Outlet kit hooked up with the Posi Tap type of taps. I use them in both of my cars Subaru WRX and my Z06. I have both of my cars hooked up that way with the Posi Taps using the relay harness I purchased for both cars. They are much better than the Autozone or Advanced auto type of taps that you can buy. I'm extremely particular on how I hook up my electronics and such. If you can find an OEM type plug then hats off to you.

 

That's not a very good idea. You are putting the new flasher in parallel with the factory flasher. You want to disconnect the factory flasher.

 

Thanks, tapping into wires w/o soldering/shrink tubing just isn't how my cars are wired. I'm very particular and **** about wiring and I want everything to look factory. I spent hours wiring up a remote starter in my DD just because I wanted it to look as if it was put there by the manufacturer. if you bypass the OEM flasher by cutting those two wires, do you lose your 4 ways?


Dave

 

No. The 4-way uses a different (constant) power feed and there are different output feeds to the corner lights. Pushing the switch changes a bunch of switch contacts and re-configures how it's connected.

 

Why isn't it a very good idea please explain?? My emergency flashers work perfect as with the very same set up with my Subaru WRX as my Z06 and has worked flawlessly for quite sometime now... and I haven't seen anyone else complain or having problems with doing it this way. Thanks

 

My emergency flashers work perfect on both my cars doing it this way. I can understand wanting something to look factory if you can see it as soon as you open hood. I like my stuff to be very clean and neat as well if it's staring at you in the face, but something that's under a knee panel that you will never see unless you take it off I'm not going to worry about 2 little ole' tiny wires that are tapped very well with millitary approved taps.

 

I already explained it in the post you quoted. You shouldn't be telling people how to wire a bypass if you can't understand how having 2 flashers both connected and trying to work at the same time could cause issues.

 

Oh really??? You shouldn't be saying it doesn't work when it works PERFECTLY on mine if you can't explain in FULL DETAIL to the people that want to save a buck on how having them both parallel isn't a good idea when mine and many many other of my buddies with vettes are doing the same thing as with A LOT of my import car buddies have for YEARS!!!

I have two totally different makes of cars Z06 & WRX domestic and import 10 and 12 sec 1/4 mile cars and it works PERFECTLY fine on both of them. Hell.... I even had my 06 Yamaha YZF-R1 done the same damn way and it's a motorcycle and I never had any issues with it done this way... along with many many other of my sport bike buddies.

For what it's worth I have personally changed every bulb over to LED's on my Z06. Instrument panel cluster, doors, under hood, turn signals, taillights, stereo, hvac, tag, glove box, map lights, floor etc. even changed over to Hid's and a 4 on harness. I have also installed many many nitrous systems, rpm window switches, fuel pressure safety switches, nitrous bottle heater pressure switches, EGT gauges, wide band gauges the list goes on and on so I think I know what I'm doing.

 

It's utter stupidity to leave a malfunctioning electrical component connected and just slap another component over top of it. I won't recommend anyone do that no matter what you post about it.


This makes absolutely no sense. You can buy simple direct replacement LED flashers for both of these. So, why would you hack a flasher into the harness?

 

You know buddy sometimes **** just works when YOU say it's not suppose to.....

Thanks for the UTTERLY stupid CLEAR DETAILED explanation that you gave for everyone else that's trying to save a buck that I asked you to provide for other people. I don't need it because I already know what you are trying to say. I just wanted to hear it from the horses ***... I mean mouth!! Ha! Ha!

I will be sure to hit you and this thread up every 6 months to a year to let you know that everything I have hooked up is still in great working order.

 

Why don't you take your name calling and **** off. Since you think you're so smart and know so much more than everyone else go start your own thread about it and leave mine alone.

 

Back on topic, I installed the 2 prong flasher and the turn signal hyper flash is gone, HOWEVER the 4 way hyper flash still persists unless I turn the turn signal on. Anyone have any input on that?
Thanks much.

Dave

 

There is no easy fix for that one. The flasher and switching for the hazards is all integrated into the switch so you can't just replace the flasher for hazard use like you can for signal use. You could fix it, but you'd have to figure out how to separate the hazard switching and the flasher inside the switch.

 

OK so at least that is standard operating method right? I can live with it if its normal and there is no easy way around it. I rarely, if ever, use my hazards anyway. I could always just turn the turn signal on if it annoys me while they are on.

Dave

 

Yes, the hazards are still on the OE flasher and will still act-up even with a bypass to fix the signals.

 

I don't or never claimed to know so much more than anyone else. Just throwing info out there IF someone wants to try it the way I do it and many many other money savers out there with this mod. Get your panties out of their wad bro. If I wanted to name call I would send you many many private messages good ole' Mr Parallel explainer guy.