C5 Hyperflash with LED's
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The only butthurt is yours 
Video proof of what can happen with both flashers connected vs disconnecting the original hazard switch flasher.
C5 With both flashers connected
You ->
Video proof of what can happen with both flashers connected vs disconnecting the original hazard switch flasher.
C5 With both flashers connected
You ->
Last edited by lionelhutz; May 15, 2015 at 05:59 PM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
After all the bickering back and forth I went out and wired up both relays to see what would happen and mine worked just fine. Exact same as it did with isolating the new LED relay.
With that said another oddity I'm running into. If I have the 4 ways on w/ the ignition off and I turn on the turn signal the dash lights all illuminate (including warning lights) and the fuel pump cycles at that moment. It seems something is perhaps back feeding but I don't know how to even diagnose that one. Anyone else see this? This goes away w/ key in acc. or run position.
Dave
With that said another oddity I'm running into. If I have the 4 ways on w/ the ignition off and I turn on the turn signal the dash lights all illuminate (including warning lights) and the fuel pump cycles at that moment. It seems something is perhaps back feeding but I don't know how to even diagnose that one. Anyone else see this? This goes away w/ key in acc. or run position.
Dave
Thread Starter
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From: South Western Ontario
With that said another oddity I'm running into. If I have the 4 ways on w/ the ignition off and I turn on the turn signal the dash lights all illuminate (including warning lights) and the fuel pump cycles at that moment. It seems something is perhaps back feeding but I don't know how to even diagnose that one. Anyone else see this? This goes away w/ key in acc. or run position.
Dave
Dave
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From: South Western Ontario
Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
Dave
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I posted video evidence that it CAN cause issues so my statements stand true with the evidence to back them up. I didn't make anything up or claim anything that isn't true.
To be even more stupid, he also tries to claim it's a money saving tip when the cheapest way to bypass is to snip the 2 wires and just install spade connectors onto the wires after you cut them. Much cheaper than his $9 a piece posi-taps. I even mentioned using spade connectors in the detailed post.
Thread Starter
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From: South Western Ontario
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Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
Dave
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Yeah I have no more incandescent bulbs on this circuit fortunately. I really have no idea of the current draw of these LEDS though. I'm going to head to radio shack and grab some 1n4007 diodes. Do you think there may be another diode better suited to my situation? I'm not exactly an electronics guru.
Dave
Dave
It's a 1A diode and the lights could push it to the limit or go over the 1A. The wattage or current draw of a LED bulb is almost never published so you almost always have to measure the current to know what you have. If you don't measure, then see if they have a higher current rated diode like 2A or 4A which should be good.
Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
It's a 1A diode and the lights could push it to the limit or go over the 1A. The wattage or current draw of a LED bulb is almost never published so you almost always have to measure the current to know what you have. If you don't measure, then see if they have a higher current rated diode like 2A or 4A which should be good.
The rear bulbs have no specs but I know the SMD they use. They are AX-2835 which are .2W per SMD and there are a total of 33 per bulb x4. So that is 2.2A
The front switchbacks state max current draw of .25A so .5A total for the front.
Seems odd the switchbacks would have so much less current draw than the non switchbacks.
Dave
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The signals are only one side at a time. The 2 rears should be a little under 1A (remember 14.2V is real voltage, not 12V) plus the 0.25A front bulb so you're looking at around 1.25A.
Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
So the switchbacks are at .22A @ 14.2V each. Where do you get the draw of 1A for the 2 rears? Is that from my .2W/LED? Assuming this is accurate, with the 4 ways we'd be at ~2A for rear bulbs and .5A for the front.
Out of curiosity why would the non switchbacks draw more current? it appears the switchbacks actually use the same SMD as my rear bulbs albeit with 33LEDS vs 30LEDS of the switchbacks. Based on my calculations of the front current draw specs each SMD is drawing .007A. So all else being equal each tail would draw .24A vs the front @.22A.
Am I off base here?
To be safe, would this work? It is a 3A diode but I cannot find any more specs on it.
http://www.radioshack.com/3a-barrel-...lVhBc&tab=tab2
Dave
Last edited by T_Vert; May 16, 2015 at 04:22 PM.
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If you do turn on the signals with the key on and the hazards on the diode could be required to power all the lights. You'd have about 2.5A maximum load so a 3A diode should still be fine.
.2W x 33 / 14V = ~0.5A per bulb. You are probably right that each SMD is running below it's rated power. In any case, each bulb should be 0.5A at the absolute maximum. Once again, it's rare for the real power or current of these bulbs to be published so you just don't know unless you test them.
It'd be easier to just not turn the signals on the rare time you have the hazards on.
.2W x 33 / 14V = ~0.5A per bulb. You are probably right that each SMD is running below it's rated power. In any case, each bulb should be 0.5A at the absolute maximum. Once again, it's rare for the real power or current of these bulbs to be published so you just don't know unless you test them.
It'd be easier to just not turn the signals on the rare time you have the hazards on.
Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
It would definitely be easier not to turn on the signal w/ the 4ways on for sure. However It's nice out and i'm bored. Added the diode and it resolved the issue. However i wanted a cleaner look so I decided to cut the power lug in the relay and enclose it in the relay. However I took out a 50v 10uF cap while cutting the lug (always something with me). so I replaced the capacitor and we're back in business.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
If you do turn on the signals with the key on and the hazards on the diode could be required to power all the lights. You'd have about 2.5A maximum load so a 3A diode should still be fine.
.2W x 33 / 14V = ~0.5A per bulb. You are probably right that each SMD is running below it's rated power. In any case, each bulb should be 0.5A at the absolute maximum. Once again, it's rare for the real power or current of these bulbs to be published so you just don't know unless you test them.
It'd be easier to just not turn the signals on the rare time you have the hazards on.
.2W x 33 / 14V = ~0.5A per bulb. You are probably right that each SMD is running below it's rated power. In any case, each bulb should be 0.5A at the absolute maximum. Once again, it's rare for the real power or current of these bulbs to be published so you just don't know unless you test them.
It'd be easier to just not turn the signals on the rare time you have the hazards on.
Last edited by T_Vert; May 16, 2015 at 07:39 PM.
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From: Hopkinton MA
Le Mans Master
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From: Streamwood illinois
lionel, you seem well educated on this circuit can I pick your brain again?
I have euro tails (have to cut white wire since the turn signals use another bulb) and think this may be part of the issue. When I press the brake lights w/ the lights off all parking lights come on as does the cluster illumination. Assume some type of back feed of braking circuit into the parking circuit but I'm unsure how to even proceed. I assume this would just be another diode but I really don't want to cut up any wiring if possible.
I'm going to try to isolate my rear brake/turn signal harness in a bit to see if the problem goes away w/o the rear harness connected.
Thanks much
Dave
I have euro tails (have to cut white wire since the turn signals use another bulb) and think this may be part of the issue. When I press the brake lights w/ the lights off all parking lights come on as does the cluster illumination. Assume some type of back feed of braking circuit into the parking circuit but I'm unsure how to even proceed. I assume this would just be another diode but I really don't want to cut up any wiring if possible.
I'm going to try to isolate my rear brake/turn signal harness in a bit to see if the problem goes away w/o the rear harness connected.
Thanks much
Dave
Intermediate
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From: Hopkinton MA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,126
Likes: 19
From: Streamwood illinois
lionel, you seem well educated on this circuit can I pick your brain again?
I have euro tails (have to cut white wire since the turn signals use another bulb) and think this may be part of the issue. When I press the brake lights w/ the lights off all parking lights come on as does the cluster illumination. Assume some type of back feed of braking circuit into the parking circuit but I'm unsure how to even proceed. I assume this would just be another diode but I really don't want to cut up any wiring if possible.
I'm going to try to isolate my rear brake/turn signal harness in a bit to see if the problem goes away w/o the rear harness connected.
Thanks much
Dave
I have euro tails (have to cut white wire since the turn signals use another bulb) and think this may be part of the issue. When I press the brake lights w/ the lights off all parking lights come on as does the cluster illumination. Assume some type of back feed of braking circuit into the parking circuit but I'm unsure how to even proceed. I assume this would just be another diode but I really don't want to cut up any wiring if possible.
I'm going to try to isolate my rear brake/turn signal harness in a bit to see if the problem goes away w/o the rear harness connected.
Thanks much
Dave
Dave