lionelhutz

The only butthurt is yours

Video proof of what can happen with both flashers connected vs disconnecting the original hazard switch flasher.

C5 With both flashers connected

You ->

gerry98

Would anyone know how to make this work with a 3 prong flasher?

T_Vert

After all the bickering back and forth I went out and wired up both relays to see what would happen and mine worked just fine. Exact same as it did with isolating the new LED relay.

With that said another oddity I'm running into. If I have the 4 ways on w/ the ignition off and I turn on the turn signal the dash lights all illuminate (including warning lights) and the fuel pump cycles at that moment. It seems something is perhaps back feeding but I don't know how to even diagnose that one. Anyone else see this? This goes away w/ key in acc. or run position.
Dave

lionelhutz

It's backfeeding from the corner lights through the MFS and new flasher to the pink wire into the switched side of the ignition switch. So, it's like you're turning the key on each time the lights flash. There's no easy way to fix this one either.

lionelhutz

Assuming the 3rd prong on the 3-prong flasher is a ground, you just ground it to the metal under the dash.

T_Vert

What about a diode?

Dave

lionelhutz

As I posted - you DON'T want to do it, it's NOT a good idea and it COULD cause issues. GenerationX1 has proved he's a complete TROLL who can't even comprehend what he reads. This is quite obvious from his ignorant name calling rants about how I should tell him why it DOESN'T work which I never posted. He also further proved his trolling stupidity by claiming he bypassed a WRX and YZF-R1 the same way when you use DIRECT PLUG IN REPLACEMENT flashers in both.

I posted video evidence that it CAN cause issues so my statements stand true with the evidence to back them up. I didn't make anything up or claim anything that isn't true.

To be even more stupid, he also tries to claim it's a money saving tip when the cheapest way to bypass is to snip the 2 wires and just install spade connectors onto the wires after you cut them. Much cheaper than his $9 a piece posi-taps. I even mentioned using spade connectors in the detailed post.

lionelhutz

Yes, a diode in the pink wire should fix it. You could likely get away with a 1N4007 using all LED's but each stock bulb draws about 2A so they quickly add-up to requiring a much larger diode.

T_Vert

Yeah I have no more incandescent bulbs on this circuit fortunately. I really have no idea of the current draw of these LEDS though. I'm going to head to radio shack and grab some 1n4007 diodes. Do you think there may be another diode better suited to my situation? I'm not exactly an electronics guru.

Dave

lionelhutz

It's a 1A diode and the lights could push it to the limit or go over the 1A. The wattage or current draw of a LED bulb is almost never published so you almost always have to measure the current to know what you have. If you don't measure, then see if they have a higher current rated diode like 2A or 4A which should be good.

T_Vert

Not sure on my math here so please correct me if I'm wrong....


The rear bulbs have no specs but I know the SMD they use. They are AX-2835 which are .2W per SMD and there are a total of 33 per bulb x4. So that is 2.2A

The front switchbacks state max current draw of .25A so .5A total for the front.

Seems odd the switchbacks would have so much less current draw than the non switchbacks.

Dave

lionelhutz

The signals are only one side at a time. The 2 rears should be a little under 1A (remember 14.2V is real voltage, not 12V) plus the 0.25A front bulb so you're looking at around 1.25A.

T_Vert

I was thinking more along a worst case scenario of the 4 ways being on and all 6 bulbs being illuminated. After all the reason I'm putting this diode in is due to back feed issues w/ ign. off and 4 ways on.

So the switchbacks are at .22A @ 14.2V each. Where do you get the draw of 1A for the 2 rears? Is that from my .2W/LED? Assuming this is accurate, with the 4 ways we'd be at ~2A for rear bulbs and .5A for the front.

Out of curiosity why would the non switchbacks draw more current? it appears the switchbacks actually use the same SMD as my rear bulbs albeit with 33LEDS vs 30LEDS of the switchbacks. Based on my calculations of the front current draw specs each SMD is drawing .007A. So all else being equal each tail would draw .24A vs the front @.22A.

Am I off base here?

To be safe, would this work? It is a 3A diode but I cannot find any more specs on it.

http://www.radioshack.com/3a-barrel-...lVhBc&tab=tab2


Dave

lionelhutz

If you do turn on the signals with the key on and the hazards on the diode could be required to power all the lights. You'd have about 2.5A maximum load so a 3A diode should still be fine.

.2W x 33 / 14V = ~0.5A per bulb. You are probably right that each SMD is running below it's rated power. In any case, each bulb should be 0.5A at the absolute maximum. Once again, it's rare for the real power or current of these bulbs to be published so you just don't know unless you test them.

It'd be easier to just not turn the signals on the rare time you have the hazards on.

T_Vert

It would definitely be easier not to turn on the signal w/ the 4ways on for sure. However It's nice out and i'm bored. Added the diode and it resolved the issue. However i wanted a cleaner look so I decided to cut the power lug in the relay and enclose it in the relay. However I took out a 50v 10uF cap while cutting the lug (always something with me). so I replaced the capacitor and we're back in business.

Thanks

Dave

gerry98

Yes, it's a ground. I was hoping to find a ground wire as part of the harness. Does any one have a schematic of the harness?

lionelhutz

The ground is the black wire in the harness. You'd have to leave it connected if you want the hazards to still work.

T_Vert

lionel, you seem well educated on this circuit can I pick your brain again?

I have euro tails (have to cut white wire since the turn signals use another bulb) and think this may be part of the issue. When I press the brake lights w/ the lights off all parking lights come on as does the cluster illumination. Assume some type of back feed of braking circuit into the parking circuit but I'm unsure how to even proceed. I assume this would just be another diode but I really don't want to cut up any wiring if possible.

I'm going to try to isolate my rear brake/turn signal harness in a bit to see if the problem goes away w/o the rear harness connected.

Thanks much
Dave

gerry98

Thanks for your help on this. much appreciated.

T_Vert

disregard, I located the backfeed location and fixed w/ a diode.

Dave