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I am about to swap a new clutch into my 02 Z06. It only has 14k miles on it. I am just replacing it knowing that the stock clutch will not hold up with the new blower.
Are there any other parts besides the slave cylinder that will need replacing while I am in there?
I would do pilot bearing and probably upgrade to an aluminum coupler in the torque tube. While the shifter is out.... good time to upgrade.
If I had it to do again, would also have installed the tunnel plate upgrade. My interior is the temp of the sun without carpeting Ouch in shorts man....not going to happen!
Good luck, sounds like you have a FUN season coming up (lo miles on a Z, Blown with a good clutch).
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
With the blower do the aluminum torque tube bushing. Also it's always good to install a new pilot bearing while you're in there but at 14,000 miles you could prolly skip it safely. They only run about $15. but the r&r isn't very easy unless you have the proper tools. ie: Heavy slide hammer with pilot bearing pulling tip.
Remote bleeder - What is the point of these? I figured I would just bleed the slave with it attached to the master before putting it on the tq tube. I don't plan on ever getting in there again.
Aluminum Torque Tube Bushing - Don't the 01+ cars come with these?
I've done clutches on the ls1 f-bodies so I've done the pilot bearing before.
Remote bleeder - What is the point of these? I figured I would just bleed the slave with it attached to the master before putting it on the tq tube. I don't plan on ever getting in there again.
Aluminum Torque Tube Bushing - Don't the 01+ cars come with these?
I've done clutches on the ls1 f-bodies so I've done the pilot bearing before.
When you have to bleed the slave when everything is back together is a PIA!!!!!! Do get the remote bleeder, trust me you won't regret it.
This is what happens to the stock rubber bushings.
Remote bleeder - What is the point of these? I figured I would just bleed the slave with it attached to the master before putting it on the tq tube. I don't plan on ever getting in there again.
These cars are notoriously bad about roasting the clutch fluid, leading to clutch problems. Using quality fluid, and keeping it fresh through regular bleeding should be part of the regular maintenance regimen. The "Ranger Method" works (do a search if you're not familiar), but adding the remote bleeder will make your life MUCH easier.
I'm doing my clutch right now and have done pretty much everything on that list. Think about the TICK Performance adjustable clutch master. I am putting one in as well. Nice quality piece that is much better than stock and is supposed to aid in the hard high rpm shifting issues. I also inspected torque tube bushings today and found the front one starting to crack.45 k on my car. I decided to just go with 2 new rubber ones myself. Also no one mentioned rear dif output shat seals. They are notoriuos for leaks. Bought them from Gene for 17 bucks each I think. Good luck. Not a bad job to do really. Take your time.
Im about to preform a clutch job my self. Wheres the best place to purchase a TICK Performance adjustable clutch master and how much are they?
Are they easy to adjust?
BC
I believe you have to get them from tick...they are like $309. They just had a GP for F-bodies, not sure if it is over yet. We suggested that they have a Corvette GP and they wouldn't commit. Not sure if there will be a GP soon or not. Heard that they were not hard to adjust either.
Im about to preform a clutch job my self. Wheres the best place to purchase a TICK Performance adjustable clutch master and how much are they?
Are they easy to adjust?
BC
I called them one morning from the number on their web site. Talked to a nice guy with a thick southern accent and he set me right up. I had the master and a remote bleeder in 2 days. I can't wait to try out my new set up.
I did all the above when I did mine except for the Tick mc, which wasn't available then. I wish it was as new clutch picks up lower and is a little harder to drive. You might want to think about a tunnel plate while you got all that stuff out. Sounds like there will be some HEAT!!! Good Luck with it.
I did all the above when I did mine except for the Tick mc, which wasn't available then. I wish it was as new clutch picks up lower and is a little harder to drive. You might want to think about a tunnel plate while you got all that stuff out. Sounds like there will be some HEAT!!! Good Luck with it.
The clutch master is fairly easy to install after the fact... you don't need to have the driveline apart. As I understand it, the only thing difficult in installing the Tick master is drilling your clutch pedal for the adjustable linkage. If you don't like your clutch engagement, it's not too late.
From: It's true money can't buy happiness, but it is more comfortable crying in a Corvette than on a bicyc
St. Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by waddisme
You might want to think about a tunnel plate while you got all that stuff out. Sounds like there will be some HEAT!!! Good Luck with it.
That's the one thing I wish I had done when I had the car apart. It is on the list for when I do the Long Tubes this summer. Elite was running a sale around Christmas for $235. shipped. I hate hind sight.
Not even sure if there is any special mounting hardware needed for the C5 platform.
On the F-bodies all Tick did was produce a way to mount it to the firewall. IMO the Tick piece is too expensive because they used a CNC to etch their name into a piece that's used for mounting the MC in a place where no one can even see it. Way to drive up costs, yo.
Edit: you can source the line to connect the tilton to the throwout bearing from Michelin iirc for under 50 bucks.
Last edited by Boob; Mar 12, 2009 at 01:06 PM.
Reason: Supplemental Info.