Half shaft install
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 42
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Half shaft install
I had a C5 on a lift this weekend to reinstall the torque tube, trans rear and dif. When installing the half shafts into the diff I couldn’t get them to pop all the way into the diff.
There was about a half inch of shiny material showing between the diff housing and the housing for the CV joint. I will have my friend look at them today to see if they corrected themselves.
Since there was no load on the suspension as it was in the air would this cause this to happen?
The car drives fine and there are no leaks. Just curious.
Thanks!!
There was about a half inch of shiny material showing between the diff housing and the housing for the CV joint. I will have my friend look at them today to see if they corrected themselves.
Since there was no load on the suspension as it was in the air would this cause this to happen?
The car drives fine and there are no leaks. Just curious.
Thanks!!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 749
Likes: 3
From: West Yarmouth MA.
Give them a good hard push. There is a snap ring on output spline in the differential. If they still don't go in I would check the snap ring to make sure it is still in it's groove. The suspention may need a load to get enough travel in axle while pushing or you could loosen axle nut in the center of the rotor I guess if all else fails.
Last edited by 7thson; Mar 10, 2009 at 07:04 AM. Reason: additional idea
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I had a C5 on a lift this weekend to reinstall the torque tube, trans rear and dif. When installing the half shafts into the diff I couldn’t get them to pop all the way into the diff.
There was about a half inch of shiny material showing between the diff housing and the housing for the CV joint. I will have my friend look at them today to see if they corrected themselves.
Since there was no load on the suspension as it was in the air would this cause this to happen?
The car drives fine and there are no leaks. Just curious.
Thanks!!
There was about a half inch of shiny material showing between the diff housing and the housing for the CV joint. I will have my friend look at them today to see if they corrected themselves.
Since there was no load on the suspension as it was in the air would this cause this to happen?
The car drives fine and there are no leaks. Just curious.
Thanks!!
CV joints will lengthen and shorten as the suspension travels which is the only reason you were still able to drive. Normally when you go to replace them, you want the outboard end free from the hub. Then you can push it in straight, collapse the joint, and maybe beat the end of it a little with a rubber mallet. Sometimes those snap rings put up a good fight, but it'll go in.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
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maybe beat the end of it a little with a rubber mallet.
When we were putting it back together the owner said it’s been like that since a company failed to fix the broken bolt in the torque tube.
I knew that it didn’t seem right at the time but I didn’t second question it. But after this company failed to fix the original problem it brought up the second thought.
Thanks for verifying my concern and providing the info to fix it!
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 167
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From: AZLE TX
You will still be able to see a little of the input shaft where it goes in (it should be less than a half inch)
Take the shaft by the end where the nut goes and in one fluid action push it up on the shaft quicky it should lock in, if it doesn't, don't beat on it, take it back off and put some bearing grease on the lock wire to stick it in place.
If it still doesn't want to go get a big dead blow (rubber hamer filled with sand ) and tap it in. I put the nut on and take up all the slack and one tap and they are on.
Take the shaft by the end where the nut goes and in one fluid action push it up on the shaft quicky it should lock in, if it doesn't, don't beat on it, take it back off and put some bearing grease on the lock wire to stick it in place.
If it still doesn't want to go get a big dead blow (rubber hamer filled with sand ) and tap it in. I put the nut on and take up all the slack and one tap and they are on.
Last edited by 2A372C; Mar 10, 2009 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Iistarded
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
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make up your mind You can beat on them fairly hard without damage. They're very beefy pieces those joints. What you want to avoid is collapsing the joint by beating on it. That's how you can hurt things. It's easiest if you have 2 people ... one to hold things down/in and the other to beat on it. But I've installed them alone plenty of times. Lean into it and tap away.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
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You will still be able to see a little of the input shaft where it goes in (it should be less than a half inch)
Last edited by Noga; Mar 10, 2009 at 03:14 PM. Reason: More info
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Team Owner
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I just slid under my car and checked. I can't see any input shaft at all. The joint housing kind of tapers off and disappears into the diff housing. At the most there's ~1/4" between the joint and diff. There should be some clearance, but 1/2" is way too much. And I really don't think you should be able to see the actual shaft.
Keep pushing and tapping. You'll know when it's home. It'll *pop* in.
Last edited by wcsinx; Mar 10, 2009 at 09:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2008
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joint housing kind of tapers off and disappears into the diff housing. At the most there's ~1/4"
Thanks for all of the help everyone!
