How thickis the C6 unit? What about using it and the stock part with an insultor material in between? The heat has never really been an issue for me, even here in TEXAS. Thanks.

 

Second that question

 

In looking at Elite Engineering data, the 3/8s is not much better than the 1/4s with the coating. Seems like the 1/4 is a pretty good value for $140.

 

I have the Elite Engineering one and it is nice. It reduces heat nicely and added a little more stiffness to the body.

 

Ok, need some help here. I went to Gene's site but can not find anything called a "tunnel plate". I have a c-5 but from your post seems a c-6 will fit. Is there a difference between std c-6 and c-6Z?
So what is what I want called?

PS and I am thinking about using the c-6 plate along with my stock on just to get some more heat resistance.

 

I installed a ceramic coated, 1/4 thick aluminum belly plate three years ago and noticed absolutely no difference in either handling or cooler console temps. Nada. It sure looks nice, though.

 

Thanks, but if the c-6 plate is 1/4 inches for 68.00 that 100.00 cheaper.
I think a double thickness will do a good job and maybe some fiberglass around the tunnel.

 

If the C6 plates look anything like the C5 pieces, I don't think they will stack very well. They are not flat. They are stamped, with a flange running around the perimiter which looks like it would make stacking impossible.

 

how long should it take a good muffler shop to do a tunnel plate swap?

 

by myself with a drill and a floor jack it was about 1.5 hours.

Does anyone have the recommended torque for the bolts?

 

Don't know you need a mufler shop. I have not done yet though I have purchased headers and just ordered the tunnel plate today. I have studied the process on this and other forums and I think the hardest part about the tunnel plate swap will be jacking the car up and placing the jack stands in place.

I am not sure the exhaust system has to be lowered but if it does I would just un-do the 4 bolts at the muffler hangers and the two bolts at the rear of the torque tube and let the system sag a bit while I undo those 30 sum bolts, slide the old one out and the new one in.
Again I have not done it yet but will be doing it when I install my OBX headers in the next few weeks.

 

Last month I installed an Elite Engineering 3/8" aluminum plate with one side insulation and O2 access holes. It is best to install 1/4" longer bolts to get full thread contact w/locktight. I would not go with the C6 or C7 plates, or doubling the C5 plate, because none of them will give you much help. 1/4" WILL help. I can say this with confidence because I don't think to many people have checked this condition with facts like a 4 post or 7 poster. Probably only seat of the pants info. I wish I had added under body tunnel insulation while I had mine apart. I have an interior pkg. to put in this winter so I didn't think I would need it. Just installed 1 7/8 ARH w/cats, Exedy twin disc, clutch remote bleeder, couplers, DTE stage 4 4:10 w/cage, Pfadt trans and engine mounts, line lock, C6 Z51 bars from Gene, poly bushings, Corsa Pace w/elec. low profile dumps, 160 degree stat, TB water bypass, catch can, remote oil pressure sending unit with Buick brass sender, intake O rings, reset fan temps, 2 types of starter heat shields, lowered front end one turn and rear 3 turns. WHAT A FUN FOUR DAYS!!!!! PS: DTE will tell you that thier cage strenthens the trans rearend case assembly and is not designed to stop wheel hop. The Pfadt trans mount fixes 90% of the hop and the engine mounts fix the rest if needed. LOVEN IT!!!!! Wheel hop WILL break your case.

 

I was led to beleive the c-6 plates are 1/4 thick.

 

Actual thickness of the C6 Stock Tunnel Plate is 0.130".



Steve

 

Oh!!
Well to late, I have ordered it. I am still going to look at using the C-6 plate along with the stock plate. maybe put some insolation between them. But till I get them both off I won't know exactly what I will be doing.

 

Return it. Go 1/4" plus or don't do it at all. "Just 2 cents".

 

 

Hi,

I installed a 1/4" tunnel plate myself and the car 'feels' a little stiffer, but I have no real means for measurement. It may be more 'mind' than 'matter'.

However, I have reduced interior heat. Here's an overview:

As you know, the primary contributor to heat in the vehicle comes from the exhaust tubes in the tunnel.

You can install a heat barrier (there are many types) between the floor / tunnel sides and the carpet, but this adds bulk to an already space-challenged situation, and eventually the insulation material heats up and begins to radiate heat on its own.

Insulated tunnel plates may help, but they only block and do not remove the heat.

You really need some method for removing the heat mechanically.

If you take a look at where the mufflers and cat converters are located, you will see that GM has installed metal heat shields that are spaced away from the surface that they are protecting.

The air space allows for a mechanical removal of heat (as the vehicle is driven) instead of attempting to block the heat with insulation.

So, following the GM engineered model, I designed an aluminum plate to surround the exhaust (on three sides) while still leaving a 3/8" air space between the plate and the tunnel sides and the tunnel closeout panel.

Designing the plate and having it fabricated was a little tricky, but there is adequate room if you measure carefully.

I took heat measurements at the base of the tunnel before and after I installed the shield and I measured a 30 degree heat reduction under medium load conditions (driving in hilly areas) and a 20 degree heat reduction when cruising (flat roads).

If you are interested in more detailed information about the design, send me a PM.