160 Thermostat questio/ problem ?!?!
did I miss something while the installation? I even lifted the front end of the car as high as my floor jack can lift when I filled up the coolant fluid to prevent any air gaps in the motor. can anyone please help. Thank you. 
The efficiency of the radiator controls how hot it runs while moving.
The fans (and radiator) control how hot it runs while not moving.
If you are seeing 220 temps while moving, you likely have something blocking your radiator, or perhaps it just needs a good cleaning.
If you are seeing 220 only when idling (that is very normal/expected), you need to have your fan setpoints reprogrammed. (a tuning change).
The fans aren't normally commanded on until 224 or so anyways (in stock form), so seeing 220 isn't necessarily alarming.
First, clean the radiator fins, you won't believe how much crap the Vette picks up. Do a search, there are a couple of write-ups on how to do the cleaning. That may be all you need to do.
If you want more than that I have to ask: Why do you want to lower the temp? If you don't have a problem, then IMO leave it alone. It won't make you any more power and will only lower your gas mileage. Guys with major engine mods sometimes need to lower the temp to help them get the timing advance they want.
If you want to cool the center console, then a new tunnel plate is the way to go. Much better than messing with engine temps IMO.
If you live in the desert, i.e. high ambient temps and dry, then getting the engine back to 200 - 210 is best done with lowering the turn on temp for the fans. But, going lower than that is not really needed on a stock car IMO.
But, clean your radiator fins, you could drop down a lot by just keeping them clean.
not sure is thats normal. my brother's infinity shows no signs of getting hot even running the ac at a 100 degree summer day his car's temp gauge stays at middle.




If you are seeing those temps at highway speeds with a new thermo (stock or otherwise) either the A/C condensor is covered with trash picked up from the road, somebody removed your front air dam, you are low on coolant or the water pump isn't pumping properly.
Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

It will likely never fully close (in moderate ambient temps), but it will be moving most of the time.

The 35mph thing is only to command them off when a/c is in use. Below 35, and a/c on, the fans are running all the time.




not sure is thats normal. my brother's infinity shows no signs of getting hot even running the ac at a 100 degree summer day his car's temp gauge stays at middle.

By the way does your brother's Infinity (yuk) have a temp gauge that actually shows the temp or does it just point to a color? I bet you his car is running the same temps or very close. If your car doesn't tell you it is overheating it isn't overheating.
Bill

That, as opposed to seeing low/mid 190 temps at cruise, which is typical of the stock Tstat.
To say it makes no difference, is flat out ignoring the 15+ degree difference in normal cruising temps witnessed by anyone who's made the change.
A thermostat is not an "on or off" valve, and assuming the rest of the cooling system is up to par, it DOES make a difference in normal operating temps.
When I had my stock stat in cruising on the freeway with no fans on of course with outside temps 80's my water temps were always 189-191 degrees because that is where the stat open point was and it kept the temp right around there. Now once you are in high rpms racing around all bets are off and all temps will rise to the occasion no matter what temp stat you have in there.
Yes I agree once the stat is completely open temps will steady out BUT whatever your stat opening point that is where they will steady out around of course depending on outside temps. Of course the hotter is outside the more over yours stats opening temps will be.
If its 50 or lower degrees out my coolant temps will stay steady at 172-175 and with my stock stat that were always at 192 cruising freeway.
You will see a difference in coolant temps while cruising between a 160/stock stat and with fans reprogrammed lower as well in stop and go.
Coolant temperature will always rise over approx 2-3 degrees what any stat opening temp is but dependent on outside temperature determines how much over.
You take a 160 vs a 190 stock stat opening temp at 60 degrees ambient outside cruising on the freeway in 6th gear and you will be an easy 15+ degrees less coolant temp on the 160 stat vs stocker 190 stat which will hold you past 190 degrees no matter how cold it is outside.
It aint rocket science here folks...you want cooler running temps you run a 160 stat plain and simple.
Last edited by briann510; Mar 23, 2009 at 08:12 PM.




When I had my stock stat in cruising on the freeway with no fans on of course with outside temps 80's my water temps were 189-191 degrees because that is where the stat open point was and it kept the temp right around there.
I changed to a 160 stat and at same speed with no fans on, same 80's outside temp my coolant temps stay right at 178-180.
Yes I agree once the stat is completely open temps will steady out BUT whatever your stat opening point that is where they will steady out around of course depending on outside temps.
If its 50 or lower degrees out my coolant temps will stay steady at 172-175 and with my stock stat that were always at 190.
I see an easy 10+ degrees cooler temps cruising with a 160 stat during normal cruising speeds vs stock stat.
In town with fans reprogrammed same 80's outside temps I never see temps go over 185 stop and go even in 95 degree weather with where my fans are set to come on/off...
You will see a difference in coolant temps while driving stop and go or cruising between a 160/stock stat.
Bill
I have to inspect everything in my cooling system and find out the root of this problem. now as for the reprogramming of the fans how or who do I do that? or where do I go for this task? if I have to go to a shop can you recommend one here in So Cal. Thanks again

Fan 1 on at 195, off at 185
Fan 2 on at 206, off at 196
Some have gone more aggressive, but I find these work fine for me.
Normal temp while moving is 176-178. The hottest I've seen it idling in hot weather was 198.
When I had my stock stat in cruising on the freeway with no fans on of course with outside temps 80's my water temps were always 189-191 degrees because that is where the stat open point was and it kept the temp right around there. Now once you are in high rpms racing around all bets are off and all temps will rise to the occasion no matter what temp stat you have in there.
Yes I agree once the stat is completely open temps will steady out BUT whatever your stat opening point that is where they will steady out around of course depending on outside temps. Of course the hotter is outside the more over yours stats opening temps will be.
If its 50 or lower degrees out my coolant temps will stay steady at 172-175 and with my stock stat that were always at 192 cruising freeway.
You will see a difference in coolant temps while cruising between a 160/stock stat and with fans reprogrammed lower as well in stop and go.
Coolant temperature will always rise over approx 2-3 degrees what any stat opening temp is but dependent on outside temperature determines how much over.
You take a 160 vs a 190 stock stat opening temp at 60 degrees ambient outside cruising on the freeway in 6th gear and you will be an easy 15+ degrees less coolant temp on the 160 stat vs stocker 190 stat which will hold you past 190 degrees no matter how cold it is outside.
It aint rocket science here folks...you want cooler running temps you run a 160 stat plain and simple.
You should NEVER run 160 Steady State, even 190 Steady state is a good temp. Assuming you COULD keep it at 190'ish, either T-stat will be OPEN all the time. My car with a stock T-stat NEVER has an overtemp condition. Don't you think GM tests in all temps?? This horse has been beaten 100's of times now, want to burn $$$ put in a 160, if you want to REALLY lower temps, reprogram the fans and/or get a different Rad.
Take any stock car and just change the T-stat, it will take longer to get up to seady state but eventually there will be little difference in final steady state temp. Try it in other cars and lets see what you get.
There's a reason no manufacturer puts in a 160 from the factory, getting the engine up to the temp it was designed to work best at as quickly as possible is what their after as well as keeping emissions down.
Chances are this guy really has no problems with his car. It gets 100+ here and 90+ alot in the summer-I never have a problem. The stock cooling system, well maintained works fine.











