Intake Manifold Bolts
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Intake Manifold Bolts
Is it necessary to use threadlock compound on the intake bolts?
The shop manual calls for GM P/N 12345382 threadlock to be applied on the threads. Is that equivalent to either Loctite red or Loctite blue?
The shop manual calls for GM P/N 12345382 threadlock to be applied on the threads. Is that equivalent to either Loctite red or Loctite blue?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
It's specified because it's required so I suggest you use blue Loctite (medium strength / removable) to secure the bolts. Red Loctite (high-strength / permanent) is not desireable there and often requres heat to release / remove the fastener. I always use blue Loctite when bolting the manifold down with great results.
Purple Loctite is recommended is for use on set screws, calibration screws, meters and gauges. It's low strength and is intended for use on fasteners sized from #2 through 1/4". Green Loctite is high strength / permanent and is used in applications such as engine assembly on head studs, etc. - components you intend to never remove.
Purple Loctite is recommended is for use on set screws, calibration screws, meters and gauges. It's low strength and is intended for use on fasteners sized from #2 through 1/4". Green Loctite is high strength / permanent and is used in applications such as engine assembly on head studs, etc. - components you intend to never remove.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Thanks Patches, I'll pick up some Loctite blue today.
I'm removing the intake tomorrow, to replace the bank 2 A.I.R. check valve and the oil pressure sensor. I want to make sure I have everything that I'll need to do it on hand.
I'm removing the intake tomorrow, to replace the bank 2 A.I.R. check valve and the oil pressure sensor. I want to make sure I have everything that I'll need to do it on hand.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
I've had mine off many times also, as well as other C5's intakes I've worked on, but I always follow recommended torque values and thread-lock applications. Call me an **** engineer but I have had good luck over the years following this practice.
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Tech Contributor
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Ok, I have the blue Loctite and a new set of gaskets.
I have the shop manuals, and some forum "how to" threads printed out.
Is there anything else that I should be aware of, in order to remove and replace the intake? I've done this on Chevy small blocks more times than I can count, but never yet on an LSx engine.
I have the shop manuals, and some forum "how to" threads printed out.
Is there anything else that I should be aware of, in order to remove and replace the intake? I've done this on Chevy small blocks more times than I can count, but never yet on an LSx engine.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,419
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From: Alamosa CO
Ok, I have the blue Loctite and a new set of gaskets.
I have the shop manuals, and some forum "how to" threads printed out.
Is there anything else that I should be aware of, in order to remove and replace the intake? I've done this on Chevy small blocks more times than I can count, but never yet on an LSx engine.
I have the shop manuals, and some forum "how to" threads printed out.
Is there anything else that I should be aware of, in order to remove and replace the intake? I've done this on Chevy small blocks more times than I can count, but never yet on an LSx engine.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 17
From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
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Team Owner
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
When you are about to re-install, pull up on the two furthest-back bolts and use a piece of tape or alligator clips to hold them up until the manifold is in place. Then you can release them and screw them in. It's difficult to get a torque wrench in due to the minimal clearance to get to those two. Also, don't forget to reattach the small vacuum line in the back along with the connector to the MAP sensor.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
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From: Somers, CT and Clermont, FL
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Thanks again Patches!
I do have some alligator clips around to use on the back intake bolts, (an excellent idea by the way) and I'll pay particularly close attention to the vacuum lines during the intake removal.
I think I'm about ready to go for it tomorrow.
I do have some alligator clips around to use on the back intake bolts, (an excellent idea by the way) and I'll pay particularly close attention to the vacuum lines during the intake removal.
I think I'm about ready to go for it tomorrow.
