For those of you that have them, are they really better than the Kirban and the B&M?

Also, how difficult is the install?

Can I knock it out in a hour or two?

Any cutting involved?

And is it truely worth the $ and time? or should I just stay stock and cut the stem an inch?

Thanks for your help,

BP

 

I am looking also and am interested in the replies that you get to your question. However, at the World of Wheels show in Boston earlier this month, a vendor had the Kirban, Ripper and stock shifter set up on a wood display so you could try each one. There is a definite difference in quality between the stock and others. I was impressed with the feel of the Ripper, but then again it wasn't attached to the tranny. Readling that shift effort is increased with the Ripper, and that the Hurst is of similar quality and may have a lower shift effort then the Ripper definitely has peaked my interest. I am also waiting to see if Pro 5.0 introduces their shifter in the next week or so. It was due out at the end of January.

 

I did a lot of research before deciding on a Ripper. Quality on all 3 aftermarket units is first rate. What finalized my decision was I wanted the shortest throw possible which is provided by the Ripper. I was nervous about the shift effort and noise that some complain about because whenever you shorten the throw, you increase the effort, but after installing it i realized the effort was not an issue for me, "firm, positive, precise, short throws is exactly what I wanted and the noise issue was a matter of **** selection and in no way was due to the design of the shifter. My wife even loves it and said it feels great which really surprised me. I've been using it for a month now and have never missed a shift. My mind was made up after reading about the features of the Hurst. I didn't want a shifter with all kinds of adjustments, mostly because of warranty concerns. There are several different springs that come with the Hurst to adjust stick centering and there are also some adjustable stops. While this may provide some additional flexibility over the B&M, it also leaves room for installation error or possibly things coming loose and screwing something up. I'll admit that these may be unfounded concerns since I've never examined one close up but I didnt want to take the risk and they waited way too long to get them to market. Installation from start to finish including test drive was 1.5 hours using only basic tools. If any of you are in Jax Fl and would like to try it out I'd probably be willing to let you take it for a Rip. :cheers:


[Modified by VettTheRipper, 12:59 PM 1/30/2002]

 

I won't "quote" it cause it's pretty long, but VettTheRipper is right on. I installed a ripper about six weeks ago.

The effort is TOTALLY related to the length and fulcrum point. If you try any of the shifters sitting on a stand, not hooked to the transmission, there is no effort at all in the up and down mode. In the side-to-side mode there is extra effort due to the springs, but that is to help center into the 3-4 slot. Frankly, I'm very pleased with the side to side effort, yes it's increased, but with this shifter I am always positive about where in the gate I am. The effort up and down, especially from 1-2, and 2-3 is pretty high. Pushing "up" (2-3, 4-5) is not bad because you are pushing with your back against the seat back.

The real issue is how short do you want your throws. That is the only factor in how stiff it is.

By the way, I too thought about lowering the stock shifter. I have now learned more about the stock shifter. It has a rubber isolater built into the shaft (like a shaft within a shaft separated by rubber). This is part of why it can feel a little vague at times. I don't think shortening it will eliminate the "false" third gears that I have heard several people complain about (a no mans land where you wind up in nuetral). I can't substantiate that, but I'm thinking the rubber is what causes that.

Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with any of the three aftermarket shifters. I've driven Kirbans as well, and I like them. As far as the shortness of one over the other, you can adjust that with a different ****. I have the shortest **** you can possibly put on. You can't believe how short mine looks compared to stock. When the web-pages are back up, I'll post a picture vs. stock on my web site.

Hope this helps. By the way, these are very easy to install. If you have any mechanical aptitude at all, you can do it. The only tricky part is getting the dash trim off. Very easy once you know where the screws are and remember to pull all the wiring harnesses. I think there is a how-to on this on the forum.


[Modified by jschindler, 7:37 AM 1/30/2002]

 

Here ya go, all about the install process for the Hurst!:
http://www.thx2.net/hurst.htm

 

Here is a review from guy who has had all three shifters.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=222246

 

BOBSZ06
racer44

Thanks for the great links!

:cheers:

 

You can see the feedback for yourself- those that have the Hurst (and had the rest) are quite happy. Installation effort between all shifters is about the same, and none require permanent mods, though trimming the closeout boot makes for a nicer install. Installation should take 30 min- 1 hour.

Cutting the stock handle will only reduce throw by 10-15%. Raising the fulcrum is where the reduction truly occurs. The Hurst yields a 42% reduction with the stock handle via raised fulcrum and 1" dropped handle height.

The flexibility of the Hurst is simply in that the side tension springs can be exchanged via large set screws that covers them. This is a big advantage because personal preference varies widely. Loctite is included to lock the threads of these set screws. There is absolutely no reason to think that the increased flexibility will in any way be a warranty concern of any kind- all it takes is a drop of loctite. If someone were still truly worried about it, epoxy the set screws in place- it just means that to change them you would need to remove the top of the shifter assembly- which like the B&M is also held on by screws.

Chris


[Modified by zrchris, 10:50 AM 1/31/2002]

 

I have had the Prototype Hurst for almost 4 months with not one problem yet. I was very easy to install and swap springs. If you can pick up a wrench you can install it. :cheers:

 

It took me 30-40 mins to install the Hurst.It is very easy.The Hurst is awesome and quiet.

 

I put a Ripper on my '01 with 100 miles on the car and hated it--for 5000 to 6000 miles! It took that long for the Ripper, it's springs, and/or tranny to "loosen up." Yeah, I'd put in syn fluid in the tranny to no avail. Until a little more than 5K miles I wished I'd just shortened the stock shifter and changed *****. I threatened to change back repeatedly but held off since I recalled a Forum post a long time ago about such an absurd break-in period for the Ripper.

As for rattle, go to an electric motor shop and get several steel shaft collars and install under the boot (with locktite on the set-screws) as dampeners. More "elegant" than other suggestions I've seen and works. Besides, the top collar will hold the boot tight against the bottom of the **** like a real $50K car. :yesnod: All the best.

 

I've got a Ripper in my '99. At first I used the stock **** and hated it. It felt like it required too much effort to shift (and I have a bad right shoulder). I then switched to a **** that was taller than the stock one and "voila", Just Right. I have had it in for over 20K miles and the effort seems to have gotten even easier.

If you would have asked my opinion prior to switching *****, I would have said :U "Don't do it", but now I say :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: . I don't think that you could go wrong with the Hurst either. I've never tried a kirban.

It only took about two beers to install, and it turned out well. A little duct tape over the rubber boot, like the factory install should keep the road sound to a minimum.