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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Default Pull key wait 10 seconds

Hey guys, I keep getting the pull key wait 10 seconds message after the car sits for 1 to 2 weeks. If I do what it says, it works fine no problems until the next week after it sits. I have a 2001 M6 coupe. Unfortunately all the GM fixes for the Column lock have been done. I purchased the car from a GM dealership in Oct 2007. The car only has 26000 miles. I saw a thread a month or so back from Bill Curlee that gave directions on how to check the key pellet and then the "can" that reads the key pellet. I pulled everything apart today, and it all checks out fine. Any ideas? Am I getting warnings of the CLB issue? Any help would be appreciated.........................Than ks, Dave
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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That is VERY similar to how it started for me. Cleaned the pellets ,checked the battery,,,still got the 10 second message on random occasions. Was not all that concerned( I did have a CLB,but had not installed yet),,after all it had been in for two recall fixes,,and the wheel turned when key was out. Well it got me anyhow,, THE FUEL CUTOFF that was programmed in during one of the recalls kicked in when the K-harness failed!!! I HIGHLY recommend removing the K-harness and installing a CLB!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I'll order my CLB today. 8VETTE7, I have a brand new battery (3 months old) and I have it connected to a Battery Tender, do you think I could still have a battery problem? It's just a standard battery, Exide I think, nothing special.
I'll do the CLB and post the results............................Dave
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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I highly doubt its your battery....I WOULD install a CLB, but I dont think your issue has anything to do with column lock.
Here's some reading for you:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ross-eyed.html
I started this thread way back...and with every's input, I STILL get this message every single day....I am convinced the only "fix" is trading the car in for a C6....
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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This happens to me when I leave the keys in the ignition and some how screw up the security sequence. Might be you and not the car Trying to help I might not be the only dumb one out here. If right it is the easiest fix. best of Luck
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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8VETTE7 I will test the voltage next time I get the message. I'm buried in snow again here, so won't be driving for a while. Ordered the CLB from CoH today. I will install it and watch what happens. Thanks for all the help.
SEE3ER - I read your thread.....very frustrating! When you had the ignition switch out did you test the voltage with the key in and out like Bill Curlee recommended? I did this and it tested exactly the same as the key pellet. Incidentally, my key is also a #15 (11.74kv) resistance. Wonder what key #'s others have with the Pull Key issue?
If anyone reads this chime in.....maybe it has to do the this key resistance? Who know..........Dave
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 11:26 PM
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aleadfoot - I thought the same thing at first. So I have intentially made sure I was insterting the key carefully and not being clumsy. I always wait for the gauges to sweep before I turn the ignition over.
Still get the message intermittently...........Oh well CLB is my next step.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:14 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by aleadfoot
This happens to me when I leave the keys in the ignition and some how screw up the security sequence. Might be you and not the car Trying to help I might not be the only dumb one out here. If right it is the easiest fix. best of Luck
I have no idea what you are talking about?????
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:18 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Magred6sp
8VETTE7 I will test the voltage next time I get the message. I'm buried in snow again here, so won't be driving for a while. Ordered the CLB from CoH today. I will install it and watch what happens. Thanks for all the help.
SEE3ER - I read your thread.....very frustrating! When you had the ignition switch out did you test the voltage with the key in and out like Bill Curlee recommended? I did this and it tested exactly the same as the key pellet. Incidentally, my key is also a #15 (11.74kv) resistance. Wonder what key #'s others have with the Pull Key issue?
If anyone reads this chime in.....maybe it has to do the this key resistance? Who know..........Dave
I have tested all voltages, tested all resistances etc. My key is a #7--1.870 ohms, which I replaced the key reader with a 1.8 ohm resistor. Did nothing, and I put everything back to where it was.
Forgive my negativity....I've run out of patience
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Sorry SEE3ER I read your resistance as 11.8 not 1.8. I thought I was onto something if we were both having problems with the same resistance keys. I guess I was just trying too hard.......Don't worry about the negativity, electrical issues can put anyone on tilt. Hang in there, the prices on C6 Z06's are coming way down .
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Magred6sp
Sorry SEE3ER I read your resistance as 11.8 not 1.8. I thought I was onto something if we were both having problems with the same resistance keys. I guess I was just trying too hard.......Don't worry about the negativity, electrical issues can put anyone on tilt. Hang in there, the prices on C6 Z06's are coming way down .
WSell...now maybe you ARE on to something....maybe..just maybe I read it as 1.8, and its SUPPOSE to be 11.8 !!!!
Time for the ohm meter AGAIN!
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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Default VATS Bypass

There are 4 very small contact wires in the switch that "read" the pellet. Look just like "Cats Whiskers" I have seen where one of the 4 wires breaks off or is so bent out of position that it does not make contact. If you remove the key and reinsert it sometimes works fine. Very intermittent until the other contact wire breaks then it quits working completely. Then it is new ignition switch time or do the VATS bypass...

http://www.c5help.com/bypass_vat.htm for details on the bypass with pics....
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ICUALL
There are 4 very small contact wires in the switch that "read" the pellet. Look just like "Cats Whiskers" I have seen where one of the 4 wires breaks off or is so bent out of position that it does not make contact. If you remove the key and reinsert it sometimes works fine. Very intermittent until the other contact wire breaks then it quits working completely. Then it is new ignition switch time or do the VATS bypass...

http://www.c5help.com/bypass_vat.htm for details on the bypass with pics....
Interesting, I've had mine all apart--only 2 wires in mine....my issue is CONSISTENT...consistently never works first time, but consistently works every time I pull and wait...
PS: I've had the resistor soldered in and made no difference.

Last edited by SEE3ER; Apr 7, 2009 at 10:11 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:23 AM
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Mine did this 3 times before the column locked up. Luckily by jerking it side to side I got it to release and I didn't drive it again until I got the CLB mod. Got it, installed in about 15 mins and it hasn't done it since.
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Magred6sp
Unfortunately all the GM fixes for the Column lock have been done. I purchased the car from a GM dealership in Oct 2007.
next up is fuel cutoff at 2mph
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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Waiting on the CLB. I will install and keep you all posted..............Dave
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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On the early year cars the CLB could actually cause pull key messages, but like your problem - If you pulled the key and then tried again, it worked fine. The only suggestions I would have is to make sure your grounds are all clean and tight, and I know some people have installed additional wires between the battery and some ground points to ensure a good ground circuit - I wonder if that would help pull key messages too.
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