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So are the buttons-----no lights and no beeps. It happened as I was driving today on Highway 52 at 72 mph on cruise. The headlights, wipers, HUD, HVAC, radio, etc. all work. I've checked fuses 19 and 25. They're good and there's power (12.3 volts with the engine off) to both sides (ignition switch on when checking 19).
Is there anything else I should check before I start figuring out how to get the IPC out??
Anyone else have their DIC go bad? What fixed it?
Thanks for your help.
Edit: I did some more checking and I do get beeps from the reset, options, and E/M buttons-----not from fuel or gauges.
I had almost the same question and did'nt get many responses. The one that I got was saying that the cluster is bad. I'm not sure if that's the case for you though.
12.3 volts isn't enough juice. Needs to be a solid 12.5 or above for the car to really run. Sort of sounds like the DIC main connector on the rear of it has come lose. You checked the two fuses, what about all the others? My next thought is the ignition switch itself as there has been a lot of failures of them lately.
I think 12.3 V while NOT RUNNING is good...
Looks like you have to pull the DIC and check the connections.Is youe HUD dead as well?
Pulling the DIC is about 30-45 min job not bad-somebody can provide the link here...
The HUD is working and it is the original battery. The 12.3 volts is with the engine off and it cranks and starts well----even after sitting for a month, so I doubt it's the battery. I have 14.4 volts with the engine on plus the DIC quit while I was driving-----so it shouldn't be a voltage issue.
I've got the service manuals, but it looks like more than an hour's job to get the IPC out-----maybe I just have to get at it. There are lots of panels to pull to get at the IPC and DIC.
If the connections are OK, where can a person get a new IPC or get the current one repaired without going to a dealer?
12.3 is right on the money after you shut down and all the auto stuff cycles. A brand new fully charged battery on the bench will read 12.5 VDC. Later! Frank
I've got an extra IPC for a '99 that I only bought for the background illumination if I ever needed it. I gave away the car to my son and yes, it has the HUD connector. To get it out, you'll need to remove the center console, the knee bolster and a few extra screws but the important part will be removing the two nuts holding the steering wheel column up, which will allow it to lower down about an inch, which is just enough clearance to get the IPC out. Takes about 15 minutes to get it out. The IPC was bought off the auction site used and I never installed it. There are chips on it that you can swap with yours to insure the mileage stays the same. I do not know what year you have this instant so if you need this one, make sure you find out if its compatible first.
I've got an extra IPC for a '99 that I only bought for the background illumination if I ever needed it. I gave away the car to my son and yes, it has the HUD connector. To get it out, you'll need to remove the center console, the knee bolster and a few extra screws but the important part will be removing the two nuts holding the steering wheel column up, which will allow it to lower down about an inch, which is just enough clearance to get the IPC out. Takes about 15 minutes to get it out. The IPC was bought off the auction site used and I never installed it. There are chips on it that you can swap with yours to insure the mileage stays the same. I do not know what year you have this instant so if you need this one, make sure you find out if its compatible first.
Mine is an 03----I wonder if they would be the same? I may PM you after I check for loose connections------which won't be for a few days. The lawn needs fertilizing and some other things need doing.
I've got an extra IPC for a '99 that I only bought for the background illumination if I ever needed it. I gave away the car to my son and yes, it has the HUD connector. To get it out, you'll need to remove the center console, the knee bolster and a few extra screws but the important part will be removing the two nuts holding the steering wheel column up, which will allow it to lower down about an inch, which is just enough clearance to get the IPC out. Takes about 15 minutes to get it out. The IPC was bought off the auction site used and I never installed it. There are chips on it that you can swap with yours to insure the mileage stays the same. I do not know what year you have this instant so if you need this one, make sure you find out if its compatible first.
My car is a 99. My DIC does'nt work at all either. Do those IPC's work for all years or is it just year specific?
I truly don't know but check through Gene Culley's part listings by year for the IPC and see if they are different. We know the 97's and 98's are different as they didn't have a HUD therefore no hud connector on the IPC. Keep in mind, I've never installed this one in my car so I can only assume that it works. As I said, I only bought it for the background illumination should my original ever fail because you can't buy those lamps for the HV power supply, seperately.
Last edited by dgrant3830; Apr 27, 2009 at 09:24 AM.
I truly don't know but check through Gene Culley's part listings by year for the IPC and see if they are different. We know the 97's and 98's are different as they didn't have a HUD therefore no hud connector on the IPC. Keep in mind, I've never installed this one in my car so I can only assume that it works. As I said, I only bought it for the background illumination should my original ever fail because you can't buy those lamps for the HV power supply, seperately.
Ok, i'll check out the parts listings. Is the IPC that sliver box on the back of the cluster?
1. bad IPC or loose connector
2. Fix ig switch as per Bill Curlee how to(my vote)
3. let us know if 1. or 2., thanks
I've got power to everything else when the ignition switch is "on" including the main instruments. Does the DIC get power from a different contact in the switch than all the other electrical items?
I've got power to everything else when the ignition switch is "on" including the main instruments. Does the DIC get power from a different contact in the switch than all the other electrical items?
That's the exact same thing I'm looking for too. I'm having the same problem.
Did anyone ever find a solution to this....I have the SAME thing going on with mine, the buttons work, the HUD works...its just not putting a read out on the display....I've yet to pull it out, but wondering if its a simple part replacement or if it will require re-soldering or loose connection etc...
Did anyone ever find a solution to this....I have the SAME thing going on with mine, the buttons work, the HUD works...its just not putting a read out on the display....I've yet to pull it out, but wondering if its a simple part replacement or if it will require re-soldering or loose connection etc...
Well my issue is resolved. Turns out the main board in my IPC was bad. I bought a used IPC and had my mileage set to the old one. Now it's fine. I'm not sure in your case though. It could be a loose connection inside. Maybe someone with more knowledge can help u out futher. Good luck.