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Going to put drilled/slotted rotors and Hawk pads on my 2000 Convert next week. I've done several brake jobs ( not Vettes) in the past. Is there a step by step process posted anywhere? If not, anything unique about the C5 brakes I should be aware of. Thanks in advance. Ron
Last edited by RSchleder; May 1, 2009 at 09:30 AM.
Going to put drilled/slotted rotors and Hawk pads on my 2000 Convert next week. I've done several brake jobs ( not Vettes) in the past. Is there a step by step process posted anywhere? If not, anything unique about the C5 brakes I should be aware of. Thanks in advance. Ron
I am doing brakes at the moment also.. I converted to the Drilled and slotted years ago but needed to change pads this time.. I pulled the caliper Brackets only because I wanted to clean the pins and guide holes and grease them thoroughly..
Since you are doing Rotors.. the Caliper Brackets must come off.. Trust me when I tell you those Bigger Bolts are a pain to break loose if its the first time..
this tool made it a piece of Cake.. because the flex head allowed for different positions..
If you have something like this.. it will go easy..
Pushing down on it is easy.. But if you need to push up and cannot get enough leverage.. Slide a floor jack under it to break it loose..
No magic... But as mentioned before.. Make sure you watch the resevior as you compress the caliper pistons or it may overflow..
Chuckster is correct about the caliper bracket bolts being hard to loosen. Not only are they torqued to about 100 ft.lbs at the factory, but they have a type of Loctite on them. What I've done is heat the "knuckles" the bolts are threaded into for 2 minutes with a propane torch. Watch your rubber flexible brake lines. This softens the Loctite and they come loose easier. The fronts are easier because you can turn the wheels to start your wrench horizontal; one side you lift and the other you push down. The rears would be easy if you had youre C5on a lift, but who has a lift? You can re-use the bracket bolts, but wire brush the threads to remove the old Loctite residue, clean with alcohol and apply new Red Loctite. Now is a good time to clean the caliper pin bolts and re-lube with caliper pin grease. Make sure you orient the rotors the correct way. If they're marked "R" and "L", no sweat.
[QUOTE=chuckster;
Since you are doing Rotors.. the Caliper Brackets must come off.. Trust me when I tell you those Bigger Bolts are a pain to break loose if its the first time.. ..[/QUOTE]
Turn the wheels hard left to do the right caliper bracket and hard right to do the left caliper bracket. This makes the front bracket bolt very accessible without having to get under the car. When you get to the rears - you're on your own.
Shop Manual tells you to use new caliper bolts (they are torqued to 125 ft-lbs), but if you clean the old locktite off with a wire brush and use new blue locktite, you can re-use them.
Shop Manual tells you to use new caliper bolts (they are torqued to 125 ft-lbs), but if you clean the old locktite off with a wire brush and use new blue locktite, you can re-use them.
Yeah I agree... I hate it when they tell you that the bolt that is 4 times the thickness of the Caliper Guide Pin Bolt needs to be replaced..
If anything.. the first spot to give out is going to be the smaller Caliper guide pin bolts..
There is a Road Course Racer here.. John Shields.. He told he has reused the caliper bolt dozens and dozens of times..